This NSF-certified water filter helps to improve the taste, quality, and health of your water by removing a number of contaminants including mercury, lead, and trace pharmaceuticals. The filter should...
This is a door handle fastener to secure the handle to your refrigerator drawer. It is also known and a mounting bolt or screw. It is approximately 1 inch in total length, and is made of metal.
This evaporator fan motor is for refrigerators.
The evaporator fan motor circulates air through the fresh food compartment for efficient cooling.
Safely store any food that could deteriorate whi...
This door shelf bin is an authentic OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer. It is designed for use in your GE refrigerator. It is made of white and clear plastic, and houses items on your ref...
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Anthony Galiani
February 7, 2020
Lower ice maker not making ice. Troubleshooting?
For model number GFE29HSDASS
Hi Anthony. You would have to test various parts with a multimeter. We have video on this here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bWC44fHn0As. Thank you for your question and good luck with your repair.
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Lonnie
December 2, 2023
Ok I have replaced the ice maker and the secondary water valve but the ice maker still doesn't work. Any suggestions on what to check next.
I also had to replace the sensor temp WR55X10025 and the thermostat defrost WR50X10108 in the lower freezer due to water running out onto the floor which fixed that issue.
For model number GFE29HSDASS
Hello Lonnie, thank you for contacting us. Based on the description that you have provided, we would recommend checking the electronic control board, part number PS16619572, to fix the issue. We hope this helps!
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Joseph
August 7, 2021
Fridge to warm. I replaced temp sensors 3 of them, run capacitor, thermostat and fridge fan. The freezer is ok but still have fridge to warm. Any suggestions?
For model number GFE29HSDASS
Hello Joseph, Thank you for the question. We suggest checking the Refrigerator Fresh Food Evaporator Fan Motor to see if it is running and circulating the Cool air into the Fresh Food Section. We hope this helps!
Turbo cool is not working, push it on and it just displays tc nothing happens.
For model number GFE29HSDASS
Hello Joe, Thank you for the question. We suggest check to make sure nothing is stuck in the condenser fan and that it spins freely and the coils are clean and there is no dust build up. We hope this helps!
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Steve
September 8, 2021
Refrigerator is not cooling (59degrees) but freezer is fine. Both fans are working. I'm stumped?
For model number GFE29HSDASS
Hello Steve, Thank you for the question. If the fans are working properly, we suggest testing the Temperature Sensor in the Fresh Food Section, PartSelect Number: PS304103. At 70 degrees the resistance should be 9.3K ohms, 90 degrees would be 7.7K ohms. at 100 degrees would be 6.2K ohms, and 120 degrees would be 4.3K ohms. If the thermistor reads outside of range then it needs replaced. We hope this helps!
I went to a GE repair center to explain my problem, the service center reccomended that I have a techinician come out o look at it. $75.00 for the visit and what ever labor and materials wuld cost.
I went on line to see if there were others having this same problem and found that there were many with the same problem.
After reading some of the ways that people found out what was wrong ...it became a matter of three components, the timer, heater or thermostat.
I tried the most common component and the less expensive one first , the thermostat switch I installed it very easily snipping two wires and attaching the news using wire nuts I used the diagram on this website to pinpoint the component and there has not been a problem since.
I applied some tips learned by reading other reviews. So before I started I grabbed my trusty vise grip pliers and a small screw driver. I locked onto the switch actuator, the part that the refrigerator door pushes in, with the vise grips and pulled on it just hard enough to get the screw driver inserted in the right side to push in the catch clip so the switch could be pulled out further each time the catch clip was depressed to the next detent. Then I used the screw driver on the left site to encourage the switch past the detents on the left and very quickly the switch was out of the mount. The wires from the refrigerator pulled out with the old switch. I unplugged the old switch from the wires and plugged in the new switch and shoved the new switch back into the mount, wiggled it a couple of times to make sure it was secure and the job was done. Once I applied the vise gripes at first, the whole job took less than a minute.
