This high limit thermostat has a limit of 260 degrees Fahrenheit. Meaning that it will cut out when the internal dryer temperature reaches 260. This thermostat cuts back in when the temperature drops ...
This part controls the temperature of the inside of the dryer drum and prevents the dryer from overheating. This part is located in the blower housing.
This element is strung with a coiled wire made of a nickel and a chrome alloy. This wire receives, but resists, a controlled electric current and as a result, the wire heats up. The heat produced is u...
This dryer drum drive motor with pulley for drum belt has reverse threads for the blower wheel. This is a genuine OEM part.
$312.02
In Stock
Questions And Answers for FFRE1001PW0
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3 questions answered by our experts.
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Richard
February 2, 2024
Dryer will not start after use until it is unplugged or the breaker is cycled. Seems to work fine otherwise.
For model number FFRE1001PW0
Hello Richard, thank you for your inquiry. Based on our understanding, the issue is most probably with the control board, part number PS9492327. You may need to replace it to fix the issue. Glad to be of help!
Hello and thank you for writing.
It certainly sounds like it could be a faulty door catch PS418433 and/or possibly a faulty high limit thermostat PS446428, you should check the part(s) for signs of damage, and replace as necessary. We hope this helps. Please contact us anytime if you require further assistance.
Hi Leon, thank you for reaching out. Based on our research, the issue is most probably with the blower wheel and housing assembly, part number PS8689120. It helps direct the flow of air through the dryer. You may need to replace it to fix the issue. We hope that helps!
When I described the noise to a YouTube appliance diagnostician, I was directed to check the felt seals front and back of the rotating drum for wear, tears, or foreign objects. As it happens the felt seals looked find and there were foreign objects so, not wanting to disassemble and reassemble the dryer more than I had, I ended up replacing all the replaceable moving parts that I considered possible culprits: The idler tension spring, the idler tension bracket (which includes a nylon pulley wheel), the drum belt, the five rubber-tipped bearings that support the drum and keep it in place, and the foam seal on the blower housing which seemed a little brittle and old, as well as high-temperature adhesive for the latter. The instructional videos here and on YouTube were extremely helpful (I doubt that I would have attempted this job at all, had I not watched these ahead of time). The most time-consuming aspect was waiting for the arrival of the parts as I didn't order them all at the same time or all from the same place (I ordered from whomever could ship me a given part the fastest. Disassembly took less than an hour. Re-assembly with the new parts in place took about the same but was a little more awkward because this appliance sits in a very narrow closet and it's difficult to ensure that the 4" flexible duct stays in place when sliding the appliance back into the closet. No regrets. Now I know the basics if this dryer needs attention in future and I also know all the parts that I can eliminate as suspects in any future maintenance (the parts that I replaced)
All the symptoms indicated the thermister (located in the exhaust air stream of the dryer) was the problem. Pulled the lower panel off the dryer. Took out the two lower screws holding the door panel on so I could pull the front panel out just enough to get a screwdriver on the screws holding the thermister on. Unhooked the two wires connected to it and hooked them to the new thermister(no need to observe polarity). Put the new thermister in, screwed the door panel back down, put the lower panel on and started drying clothes.
