EE2107 Speed Queen Dryer - Instructions

The first thing I did was to unplug the dryer from the wall. Then I removed the bottom two screws and slid the bottom cover off so i could see all the way to the back, I tipped the dryer back against the wall and searched for the problem with a flashlight. I noticed that one of the guide wheels that held the drum in place was sheared off. I took the new drum support roller out and carefully slid it over the shaft, I had to jiggle it around for a bit, but then it finally was seated correctly. I replaced the washer and then the clip using a pair of needle nose pliers and a regular screw driver and then turned the dryer by hand to see if the wheel came off. After confirming that it worked, I put the cover back on, and plugged it in and tested it.

PartSelect showed seven different possibilities why the dryer wouldn't heat. I removed the two screws to remove the bottom panel and turned the dryer on and noticed that the heating element that ignites the gas was working fine. This meant that it was not getting gas so it could be the gas valve or one of the two gas valve coils which are located on top of the gas valve. I borrowed my neighbor"s ohm meter and touched the two probes on the coils terminals to check for continuity and found that one of the coils read zero. I then took both of the coils out by removing two screws and tested each coil again. One coil read 500-850 and the other read zero. This meant that it was no good so I called for the part and received it in three days. I reassembled the parts and turned the dryer on and it fired up after a few seconds. It works as good as new. The part plus shipping was less than $30. My repairman would have charged me $150-$200. While the dryer was apart I gave it a good cleaning with a vacuum and a toothbrush in delicate areas. I also removed and cleaned the lint trap housing by removing two nuts. I didn't know much about gas dryers, but thanks to PartSelect I easily fixed it myself.

Remove front panel, lint basket, motor mounts,exhaust hood, front drum brackets. Then slip serpentine belt around drum, pressure w/ tension idler pulley and slip around drive motor spindle. Replace all parts in reverse order (a two person job).
Vacuumed inside of dryer (full of lint.)

There was no problem with lint build-up within the dryer & the exhaust vent. I removed the gas cycling thermostat & thermal fuse from system & dryer still was not operating correctly. The radiant sensor & hi-limit thermostat both seemed to be operating correctly. That left either of the two coils as the culprits. I replaced both coils & the problem was corrected.

Timer wasn't working on the regular cycle so I replace it with a new one from partselect. It still wasn't working so I ordered and replace the cycling thermostat, the thermal fuse I also cleaned the vent and dryer it still didn't work so I read the diagram for the electrical and found that a coil for the gas valve is line with timer. I ordered the coils for the valves, replaced both valves and tested the dryer and it work just like when I first bought the appliance.

Determining the problem was the hardest part. With multiple parts (coils,thermostats...)possibly causing similar symptoms, I narrowed it down to the two coil valves.
Un plug the dryer. Remove two screws at the base of the front panel. Turn the front panel 180 degrees to avoid disconnecting the door switch. Gas valve with coils on top are on the right in front. Remove two screws in bracket holding coils, disconnect the wires, replace with new coils and reconnect wires. One coil has 2 terminals the other has 3 no chance of crossing the wires. I used an offset/right angle screw driver for one of the bracket screws due to close proximity to the drum. A stubby phillips head will work. You can check the burner operation with the front panel off as long as the door switch is still attached. Swing the front panel around and lift back into place securing with the two screws. Dryer works fine now.

First I turned off the gas supply line. Then unplug the dryer. Remove bottom front cover by removing the 2 screws (1 at each side) at the bottom. Next remove the 2 screws (1 at each side) located at bottom of front door panel. Pull front panel away from dryer and pull down slightly. This will disconnect the entire front panel(with door) from dryer. Carefull because there is a switch located at the top right corner of the panel on the inside. This will not allow you to remove the door yet. On some scratch paper, sketch the switch and correct color wire positions. Remove wires at connections. Pull the drum toward front dryer carefully. This dislodges it from the back of the dryer. No need to remove it from dryer. This way the belt still remains in place. From inside drum, use a pair of snap ring pliers to remove the snap ring from the support roller shaft located on left side of drum, below where the drum was sitting prior to pulling it forward to dislodge it from inside rear of dryer.
Remove old wheel , place some grease on inside of new support roller and some on the shaft. Install new roller and replace snap ring. Slide drum back in place inside the dryer at the rear. Hand rotate the drum to ensure it is properly installed. Reconnect the switch wires to the front panel. Slide panel up into place so that the clips (at top of panel) lock into place(square holes in top cover plate of dryer). Have the door open when doing this because you have to seat the front of the drum into the front cover. Reinstall the 2 screws. Test spin the drum again by hand. If it feels right, it's correctly seated.
Reinstall bottom front cover. While everything is apart, you may want to use a vacuum cleaner to clean the inside of your dryer. Perfect time to do this. Plug dryer back in and open gas supply line. Test the dryer. Should be nice and quiet again.
This fix is for the left side support roller only. There is a support roller on the right side also. In my case I only needed to fix the left side support roller. The inner diameter of the roller was badly worn and needed to be replaced. You may want to purchase the support roller shaft at the same time. I didn't and will need to do this repair again. I only purchased the support roller and when I removed it, I noticed the shaft is badly worn also. In my case, temporary fix until the shaft is ordered and then I'll do this again.

FIRST unplug dryer from electrical source, CAUTION, the top of this dryer does not open with clips, do not pry on top to open! On the front of the dryer look under the lower panel, and find two screws, one on the left side, and one on the right, remove these screws, and pull slightly down on panel to remove. Behind this panel find two screws holding the door panel, one on the left, and one on the right, remove the left, and support the door panel while removing the right side. Gently pull the bottom of door panel outward, and the clips on top of door panel will unhinge from top, carefully rotate left side of door panel to floor, and note the wire connections on switch, and orientation of switch, then unplug wires, and move door panel to a comfortable working positon. Door must be open to remove switch, then depress the two plastic retaining keepers on each side of switch, and push switch through toward door. Replace with new switch, reconnect the wires, and reassymble in reverse order. Remember, door assymbly must be inserted in dryer top at an angle, and then bottom rotated downward, and bottom panel nylon guildes inserted into door panel bottom.

I removed the two screws holding the front panel to expose the lower works and verified the heating cycle failure. After a check of the vent system, checking the sensors for continuity and coils for resistance, I retired to the 'net for support. Accepting the general consensus that the most frequent, common and likely failure to be the coils, I rechecked them with the meter and found the two pronged coil to have significantly more resistance than the three prong coil. That was enough evidence to point to the coils. While I waited for the part to arrive, I replace the vent ducting. When the parts arrived I removed the two Phillips screws holding the coils, removed the old ones, installed the new ones, replaced the bracket, put the front cover back on and in less then ten minutes clothes where drying.

1 Unplug power.
2. Remove the front of the unit by removing the two screws at the bottom of the front panel. Front dryer panel will swing out from the bottom and then the clips will release the top of the panel, careful not to disconnect the dryer door switch. ( can be unplugged to remove the front panel out of the way.)
3. Looking inside the unit on the right side you will see the gas value. On top of the gas unit you will see two small coils the coil closest to the burner has two leads on it. Remove the two screws to get to the coils, remove the medal plate, remove the connector then lift off the secondary coil. Replace and test. You can test unit with the front panel off. (be careful). If no heat, check that the Flat Style igniter is glowing. (ohm out both coils) before ordering parts. Intermittent heat problems. I replaced the secondary coil, it did ohm out o:k but it had swollen and was very tight on the shaft.

I changed out the cycling thermostat and the high limit thermostat. Mainly because that was what my research indicated was the problem. I then found some more information online that indicated the gas solenoid valves were bad. I ordered them from you and replaced them. The problem was fixed.

In order to replace the valves you need to remove the top panel. Two screws at the top of the front door assembly hold it on. Remove the screws, lift up on the front panel door assembly and move it to the side. The drum will rest in place. In the lower left corner, under the drum, you will see the solenoids. Two screws attach a plate that holds down the solenoids. Take the hold down plate off, disconnect the control wires attached to the solenoids and lift out the solenoid/control valves. To assemble everything, work backwards to the start. Good Luck

After reading about other people with this same problem I took a chance that this would be what was wrong with my dryer.I took off the front cover of the dryer by removing two screws. I located the faulty coils and simply plugged in the 2 new coils Tah-dah Probably coud have been done without even removing the front panel, but since it was off I vacuumed out the lint ( actually my husband did all of the above, but I tell a better tale than he does and I diagnosed the problem and ordered theparts)

I used my screw driver to pry the old female end of the latch from the dryer unit. I forced the new female part of the latch into the hole and bang...45 seconds later the door closed securely --like new!

Removed front of gas dryer and cleaned all lint out. Checked HSI, and cleaned flame sensor. Split (3 terminal) gas coil terminals were intermittent. Read about 700 ohms across outer two terminals, but center terminal to either outer terminal was open (Infiniti on meter) 2 terminal coil measured about 550 ohms. 3 terminal coil should read about 700 ohms across outer terminals, and about 1.5K ohms center to outer terminals. Unscrewed index cover plate and replaced coil, 2 terminal coil was okay. Reassembled and finished 12 loads of laundry no problems at all.

Unplug the power cord from the unit. Remove the lower front panel; then the upper front panel including the door (unplug wire to door switch). Then remove the cover on the fan housing. Need to block the motor from turning; I used a stick to jamb the front of the motor; then unscrew the old blower fan and screw on the new one. Then replace the cover and put front panels back on.