This door switch is for dishwashers.
The door switch detects when the door is closed so the dishwasher can start.
Unplug the dishwasher or shut off the house circuit breaker before installing this part. Wear work gloves to protect your hands.
This sump gasket (part number DD62-00050A) is for dishwashers. Sump gasket DD62-00050A forms a watertight seal between the tub and the pump assembly. Unplug the dishwasher and shut off the water supply before installing this part. Wear work gloves to protect your hands.
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Arne - For model number DW80F600UTS
January 7, 2020
Grinding at first , now it keeps running with the door open
Hello Arne and thank you for writing.
It certainly sounds like it could be a faulty door latch assembly PS8764558, you should check for signs of damage, and replace if necessary. We hope this helps. Please contact us anytime if you require further assistance.
Hello and thank you for writing.
According to our database, the model number you provided is just a portion of a model number with multiple possible variations. To ensure that we recommend parts that will work for your model, please check your information again; you will need to provide us with the full model and serial numbers located on the sticker on the unit itself.
Once we have that information, we would be happy to find the part and information you need. We are looking forward to your reply, please always notate the model number. Thank you.
1 personfound this instruction helpful.
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Bruce - For model number DW80F600UTS
May 9, 2024
The unit does not fill with water. We have hard water with calcium, probably something plugged. Serial number B00A58DGB03598J.
Hello Bruce, thank you for your inquiry. Based on the description that you have provided, we would recommend cleaning the water line and water inlet valve screens. If the issue persists, then you may need to replace the water inlet valve, part number PS4222448, to fix the issue. We hope this helps, good luck with this repair!
Can you tell me what part number would help fix the leak in my dishwasher. It leaks from the left side and in the middle at times.
Hello Kelli and thanks for writing.
One of the most common reasons a dishwasher might leak is due to a damaged or deteriorated door seal. Also known as a tub gasket PS4222432, water usually leaks from the lower sides of the door if there is a breach in the seal. We hope this helps. Please contact us anytime.
Error with "Delicate" light blinking, indicating drain issue. Water enters the dishwasher, cycle begins for a couple of seconds and water begins to drain. No drain issue. Plenty of water enters and exists. Any thought on other than drain issue? Thanks
Hello David, thank you for your question. It could be that your ECS sensor is dirty or needs to be replaced. Part number PS8764598. We hope this helps.
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Dishwasher door seal leaking.
13 of 23 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
James from BALLSTON LAKE, NY
Really Easy
30 - 60 mins
1. I always record the model number and serial number of every appliance I buy. Saves me aggravation later. For DIY-repair people, this is the most important, universal tip I can give. 2. With the model number in hand, I went to partselect.com and bought a new seal. For things like this, I actively avoid online superstores whose name
... Read mores sound like a really large river since I've received crappy parts from countries who names rhyme with "mynah" and the parts don't fit or I'm replacing them again in another year. Partselect items fit and work. 3. I put the new seal in a bowl of very warm water to make it more flexible. Since its a washer seal, I know it doesn't matter if it gets wet. 4. I put put a drop cloth (could use a sheet of cardboard from an old appliance box, or something similar) on the floor to cut down on the drippy mess. There's always a few drips. 5. I took several close-up pictures of the old seal while it's still in the appliance. Cell phones make this easy -- better to have a record of how it goes together. I do the same every time I'm disassembling appliances, but in this case the the door seal is right inside the the door, so I don't need many photos. But close-up photos of the ends will show how much overhang to expect during the replacement. 6. I partially pulled out the old seal. Took one more photo where it's partially pulled out to make sure I understand the orientation when I put it back in. Then finished pulling it out and set it aside. 7. Cleaned out the groove where the old seal was, and cleaned out the door edges well so the new seal can fit right. Old toothbrushes (don't throw them out, they're way too useful) and cotton swabs to clean any gunk out of crevices. 8. On this model, the door latch is in the center of the washer, so that's where the middle of the new seal goes. 9 Take the seal out of the water, shake off excess water, and stretch istlightly to help straighten it. Hold the ends of the seal together. where it folds in half is the midpoint. Grab it by that midpoint. 10, Press the seal into the groove starting with the midpoint directly below the latch so it will be even length from left to right. 11. Continued pressing the seal into place down the sides. Observe that if I've done this correctly, each end overhangs onto the bottom of the tub by approximately the same amount. 12. Using the HANDLE, and NOT the blade of a butter knife, pressed the seal into the groove firmly as all points along the seal. DO NOT use anything sharp to this step, you don't want to nick the seal. DID NOT **slide** the butter knife along, simply pressed it in repeatedly, moved a half-inch down the seal, and repeated. The goal is to NOT stretch the seal, but simply to make sure its fully in the groove. 13. Checked the dishwasher for anything out of place. Don't skip this step -- you have the appliance open and your tools out -- best time for preventative maintenance. Also a good time to verify that the dishwasher is properly leveled -- this influences leaks as well. 14. On this model, there is a vent in the door that lets air out when the washer fills, and lets air in when it empties. This was absolutely "gunked up" with soap sludge, and I spent more time cleaning the vent than I did in replacing the seal. But without a properly-functioning vent, pressure builds up inside the tub during filling, and water can be pushed out an otherwise-mediocre seal. I wonder if I had caught that first if I could have avoided replacing the seal. 15. Ran the washer on several "quick" cycles to ensure no leaks. 16. Put everything back together. Put away the tools. Went to the "toy store" and bought myself a new tool (an oscillating toolkit this time) as a reward for a job well done. Besides, the saw will get used when I re-tile the main bath, which I've been putting off.
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The sump seal began to seep causing the leak detector to lock it out of service (which is good)
5 of 12 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Dale from Watertown, NY
A Bit Difficult
1- 2 hours
Pliers, Screw drivers
The install definitely takes a bit more than the video I watched but in the end all was fine. The electrical and hose connections are nothing but getting the three screws and retainers isn't as easy as shown in the video I watched and getting them back in is even worse. My hands aren't small but they're not huge either. You'll need multip
... Read morele phillips head screwdrivers. All a #2 head, with one stubby, one about 6" and one long one with about 8" or more of shaft on the screwdriver to remove the screws. Also take pictures if possible with your phone for reconnecting all your wiring harnesses will prove helpful. The only other difficult part of doing it by yourself is compressing the new sump seal enough to get the three nylon retainer clips back into place. There is really need or room for two people on any part of this other than at that point. If you could have somebody push down on the pump unit from inside while you install the retainers it would make it so much easier but I managed. Other than that not a big deal. Good luck!
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