DPGT750GC2WW Dryer - Instructions

Found disassembly video and watched several times. Suspected that one of the drum wheels had seized up. Found extreme volume of lint and hair inside unit as well as a dryer sheet melted on top of heating unit. Front left drum wheel was worn down from lint and hair jamming its movement. Video made it easy, not a really complicated piece of machinery. Replaced all 4 wheels due to normal wear on other three. Wanted to be sure drum evenly balanced on all 4. Parts came quickly and were easy to install. My sister and I did this together. Would not recommend doing it alone. Took time to vac and wipe down entire unit. Now it runs so quiet we have to look to see if it is operating. Got a brand new machine out of it, saved a couple of hundred dollars in repair bills, and found 11 cents inside the machine. For your own piece of mind, if you have had your dryer for several years, you need to open it up and clean it out. Its not hard... added note, we are both in our 60's... so if we can do it so can you.... Such a feeling of accomplishment, can't buy that in a store....

We removed the top and front of the dryer and found that the drum roller bearings had gone out on one side. All this happenend on a weekend with no reair store open. We googled the cut sheet for the dryer, found the part number we needed and ordered the parts (we went ahead and replaced both rollers) from partselect.com. For $70 and our own labor, we completed the repair by Wednesday evening. I feel certain we saved at least $100 if not more by doing the work ourselves.

Once I figured out how to get into the bottom end of the dryer, it went really smooth.
1. Remove 4 screws from the top panel at the rear of the machine. This allows the top section of the dryer to be lifted up.
2. Under the top section is a plastic cover which covers the drum, this does not need to be removed. There are two screws in the top which hold the front panel in place, one at the front left top and one at the front right top. remove these two screws. Keep screws seperated, as there are several different types which need to be removed so remeber which go where.
3. Open the dryer door there are four screws which need to be removed. Once these are removed the front panel can be tipped out and the door switch wiring needs to be unplugged to remove the front panel and set aside.
4. Remove the left nylon guide at the bottom front of machine, it is in the way to remove the blower duct.
5. Remove blower housing cover.
6. Reach behind blower housing and disconnect the thyrmister and temperature limit wiring.
7. Remove the blower wheel by removing center nut. It is removed by turning nut clockwise while bracing the wheel with a screw driver so it won't turn.
8. Remove three screws that are behind the the blower wheel.
9. Remove the two base screws that hold the housing to the bottom of the machine.
10. Now you can remove the plastic duct from the machine.
11. remove two screws at the right side og the blower motor.
12. Disconnect wire harness from motor.
13. Lift up on right side of motor bracket and slide to the right. You can now remove the motor and bracket.
14. Remove two clips that hold the motor to the bracket.
15. Install new motor in bracket and replace clips.
16. You can now install the motor and bracket assembly by reversing the order of these steps.

I noticed the flame would start, then quit after about 15 seconds. I checked the flame detector, and found the lenze cracked. I replaced it, and it's as good as gold.

It looked like a hard job to take the drum out to get at the part. But the top was off with 3 screws, the front about 6 I think. Then the front frame, only 4 screws. I think setting the belt tentioner was the hardest thing to do.

Done in 45 minutes, both the job, then the next load of laundry.

I followed a Repair Clinic Urube video except the video had a model with the controls in front and my dryer has the controls on a back panel. The difference was in how to get the top of the dryer off after removing all the screws. The video
said to push back on the top panel which did not work because of the back controls. Instead I had to push up on the front to release it and then push back. The rollers were also in a slightly different place but were easily found and replaced. The dryer is now back to normal.

The customer support received from the this site individual. Was professional and very helpful. The video they recommended want me to the replacement part (Thermistor Ntc) step-by-step thanks to this site I had no problem at all

I'm not for reading instructions. So I just dove right in and took the dryer apart to get down to the motor. I gave the dryer a thorough cleaning and replaced the 3 parts I ordered from the online recommendation. Wish I would have ordered 2 sensors and the 2 thermostats that are near the burner. Just so replace beings I was in there. Replacing the parts was easy, found them just by looking for matches to the new parts. Reassembled the dryer, dont think I put a single screw back where I got it lol. And still haven't put the top lid back on due to difficulty. Not sure if I even needed any parts, found a nest in my outside vent completely plugging it. But after a good cleaning and replacing the parts the dryer dries the best it has since we've owned it. The dryer came with our house which we bought 3 years ago and it was 2 years old when we purchased the house, so it is now 5 years old.

Handed the parts to my son-in-law he's very mechanically inclined had the job done in 20 minutes

This was a fairly complex repair as almost everything had to be removed to get to the blower motor.

Tip - Keep track of the screws and where they came out. We taped the screws to the parts they came out of making re-assembly much easier.

Needs a #2 screwdriver. A #1 is too small and can strip the screws.

First remove the control panel and disconnect all the wires. Open the platic power box and disconnect all the connecting wires and disconnect the three ground wires from the back of the dryer.

You need to remove the top of the Dryer. It has 2 screws in the read and clips at the front. Under that is a metal plate. To remove this, first pop out the plastic connectors that hold the wiring up. Remove the screws from the 2 long plastic pieces on each side. Slide the plastic connectors to release, then remove them and remove the top.

You should now be able to see the dryer drum.

Front - Remove the two metal triangle pieces at the front top of the dryer.

Remove the door by removing the hinges.

Disconnect wiring for light and door switch - we had a problem disconnecting the door switch, so left it connected - which meant that once the front of the dryer was removed, it couldn;t be moved away. Not a big problem, but a little inconvenient.

Be careful with the door switch. I opened it in an attempt to disconnect it and a little black square fell out. I put it back together, but then it didn't work properly when replaced and I had to take it out again and try it in different diretions until it worked properly again.

Remove the front of the dryer.

Take out the lint trap.

Unscrew the metal plate from the front of the blower.

You should now be able to reach underneath and feel the belt that turns the drum. This belt goes all the way around the drum and then down underneath to another motor. There is a tension bar that keeps the belt tight. Before removing the belt - make sure you know how the belt goes around the motor and tension bar - you'll need to reconnect it later.

Once the belt is free - you can remove the drum.

Disconnect the wiring for the blower motor and unscrew the blower motor from the base of the dryer.

Remove the nut on the front to remove the plastic fan cover. Remove clamps to release motor.

Replace part and reassemble.

Removed the old one and put the new one in the slot.

Removed top of dryer
I carefully removed wires from back of control panel
Removed control panel
Most of screws hold cabinet together
Unhook wire from light on door and sensor on the front panel.
Remove the front door and panel together
I changed both front rollers on front panel
If you have to change rear rollers lift tub up by belt
Remove screws on back of dryer that will let you lift out inside rear panel that holds the rear rollers
Change rollers and just revearse procedure to put back together

Following the reference video, step by step and taking progress photos along the way, organizing screws and hardware as they were removed.

The discrepancy I found was the new rollers that I received were complete with the shaft. The video with the older rollers instruct removing the rollers from the shaft.

To use the new rollers with the new shaft, requires removing an additional panel at both the front 2 and also the full back panel for the rear 2, to get a wrench on both ends of the shaft, and then attach the new roller bearing shaft assembly and re-install the panel.

Other than that, it went very smoothly and the result was a quiet rotating drum. No more thumping!

My dryer actually required 2 moisture sensors, but had only ordered one pack, which only came with 1 sensor. For whatever reason, I thought the pack would have had the 2 pieces.

Another reviewer made note to wear work gloves as some of the hardwares metal edges are quite sharp. Following that advice I completed the repair in 3 hours without a scratch. Thanks for the detailed video Partselect team and good luck to all attempting repairs.

Watched a You Tube video

The current explanation for this dryer is OK. My harmony series with the computer connection, has some changes, e.g. there's more screws to get the top cover assembly off. Once the from panel (with door) is taken off. The rest remains the essentially the same. Disconnecting the electrical terminals on the back side of the white blower cowling was a challenge. My wife's smaller hands were the only way we could reconnect. They came apart when we pulled the cowling out - and that was a "hold your mouth right" experience. Reassembly was clean. Motor worked on the first try.

It wasn't a repair - just replaced a filter that was wearing out in one spot