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DPGT750EC2PL General Electric Dryer - Instructions

All Instructions for the DPGT750EC2PL
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There was a grinding noise while the dryer was being used.
We removed the top and front of the dryer and found that the drum roller bearings had gone out on one side. All this happenend on a weekend with no reair store open. We googled the cut sheet for the dryer, found the part number we needed and ordered the parts (we went ahead and replaced both rollers) from partselect.com. For $70 and our own labor, we completed the repair by Wednesday evening. I feel certain we saved at least $100 if not more by doing the work ourselves.
Parts Used:
Drum Support Roller with Axle
  • Dan from Mineola, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
35 of 54 people found this instruction helpful.
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No hot air being produced
Once I figured out how to get into the bottom end of the dryer, it went really smooth.
1. Remove 4 screws from the top panel at the rear of the machine. This allows the top section of the dryer to be lifted up.
2. Under the top section is a plastic cover which covers the drum, this does not need to be removed. There are two screws in the top which hold the front panel in place, one at the front left top and one at the front right top. remove these two screws. Keep screws seperated, as there are several different types which need to be removed so remeber which go where.
3. Open the dryer door there are four screws which need to be removed. Once these are removed the front panel can be tipped out and the door switch wiring needs to be unplugged to remove the front panel and set aside.
4. Remove the left nylon guide at the bottom front of machine, it is in the way to remove the blower duct.
5. Remove blower housing cover.
6. Reach behind blower housing and disconnect the thyrmister and temperature limit wiring.
7. Remove the blower wheel by removing center nut. It is removed by turning nut clockwise while bracing the wheel with a screw driver so it won't turn.
8. Remove three screws that are behind the the blower wheel.
9. Remove the two base screws that hold the housing to the bottom of the machine.
10. Now you can remove the plastic duct from the machine.
11. remove two screws at the right side og the blower motor.
12. Disconnect wire harness from motor.
13. Lift up on right side of motor bracket and slide to the right. You can now remove the motor and bracket.
14. Remove two clips that hold the motor to the bracket.
15. Install new motor in bracket and replace clips.
16. You can now install the motor and bracket assembly by reversing the order of these steps.
Parts Used:
Blower Motor
  • Brad from Riverton, UT
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
22 of 23 people found this instruction helpful.
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The membrane buttons on the control panel stopped working
Replaced the control panel, very easy to do. Note: There is a RH and a LH control panel available. The RH or LH refers to placement of the screen and not the position of the machine. Also for troubleshooting, you can replace the suspected bad control panel with the one off the other machine as this panel is tha same for the washer and dryer.
Parts Used:
Control Panel - Black - Right Side
  • Matt from Loxahatchee, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
9 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
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Blower motor had to be replaced.
This was a fairly complex repair as almost everything had to be removed to get to the blower motor.

Tip - Keep track of the screws and where they came out. We taped the screws to the parts they came out of making re-assembly much easier.

Needs a #2 screwdriver. A #1 is too small and can strip the screws.

First remove the control panel and disconnect all the wires. Open the platic power box and disconnect all the connecting wires and disconnect the three ground wires from the back of the dryer.

You need to remove the top of the Dryer. It has 2 screws in the read and clips at the front. Under that is a metal plate. To remove this, first pop out the plastic connectors that hold the wiring up. Remove the screws from the 2 long plastic pieces on each side. Slide the plastic connectors to release, then remove them and remove the top.

You should now be able to see the dryer drum.

Front - Remove the two metal triangle pieces at the front top of the dryer.

Remove the door by removing the hinges.

Disconnect wiring for light and door switch - we had a problem disconnecting the door switch, so left it connected - which meant that once the front of the dryer was removed, it couldn;t be moved away. Not a big problem, but a little inconvenient.

Be careful with the door switch. I opened it in an attempt to disconnect it and a little black square fell out. I put it back together, but then it didn't work properly when replaced and I had to take it out again and try it in different diretions until it worked properly again.

Remove the front of the dryer.

Take out the lint trap.

Unscrew the metal plate from the front of the blower.

You should now be able to reach underneath and feel the belt that turns the drum. This belt goes all the way around the drum and then down underneath to another motor. There is a tension bar that keeps the belt tight. Before removing the belt - make sure you know how the belt goes around the motor and tension bar - you'll need to reconnect it later.

Once the belt is free - you can remove the drum.

Disconnect the wiring for the blower motor and unscrew the blower motor from the base of the dryer.

Remove the nut on the front to remove the plastic fan cover. Remove clamps to release motor.

Replace part and reassemble.
Parts Used:
Blower Motor
  • Roderick from Boulder Creek, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
10 of 18 people found this instruction helpful.
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No air blowing through the dryer-did get some heat
The current explanation for this dryer is OK. My harmony series with the computer connection, has some changes, e.g. there's more screws to get the top cover assembly off. Once the from panel (with door) is taken off. The rest remains the essentially the same. Disconnecting the electrical terminals on the back side of the white blower cowling was a challenge. My wife's smaller hands were the only way we could reconnect. They came apart when we pulled the cowling out - and that was a "hold your mouth right" experience. Reassembly was clean. Motor worked on the first try.
Parts Used:
Blower Motor
  • Christopher from Roff, OK
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Wrench set
6 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
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replacement of filter
It wasn't a repair - just replaced a filter that was wearing out in one spot
Parts Used:
Lint Filter
  • Elaine from Los Altos, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
5 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
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Pulled out the internal comm cable plug
Not repariable, ordered replacement and installed with no problems. Replacement was sent quickly.
Parts Used:
INTERNAL COMM CABLE
  • George from Mesa, AZ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
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Noise and Squeaking from Front During Drying
Front roller bearings were bad and figured to do the belt while in there. I bought the manual online which was very helpful.
??
Unplug dryer
Remove 4 screws behind touch panel
Tilt panel forward then up leaving wires attached
Rear has 2 screws on the rear ends facing down remove them at ends
Lift rear up then forward push and top will be freed (keep on top)
Front edges have 1 screw each but sharp areas watch
Open door and remove x 4 screws then lift up and forward bottom has tabs each end to hold in place
Wires for light and switch can stay attached, move front/door to side
Exposed will be the drum brace.. I changed the x 2 rollers while the drum brace was in place.
To undo the rollers you have to use a wrench to reach in as you use a nut driver to remove then re-install new roller with washer on inside and outside (pay attention when you remove)
Remove x 4 small screws..... hold drum inside then lift brace up and forward
Have assistance hold drum steady with pressure to the back otherwise you will have to align back to the rear rollers
Reach into the bottom for the idle pulley to remove drive belt tension... drive belt is VERY SKINNY and has ribbed side that faces the drum.
Reverse the steps..
Parts Used:
Drive Belt Drum Support Roller with Axle
  • Philip from FREEHOLD, NJ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
1 person found this instruction helpful.
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Drum rolls where bad
Pulled top covers puller front panel pulled drum forward pulled plastic clips installed rollers and put back together
Parts Used:
Drum Support Roller with Axle
  • Cary from WEST JORDAN, UT
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
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Drum would not turn.
Removed dryer top, front, drum, fan motor to make room to put drive belt back on and drive motor. Screwed motor platform back in and reversed my steps. Be sure belt is facing rough side down when you are done. Cell phone pics may help you ... Remember where screws go.
Parts Used:
Motor
  • Mike from Naperivlle, IL
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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The Door Latch fell apart
I ordered the parts that were easy to locate on the web site and the fix took me 5 minutes to fix great job i love this site.
Parts Used:
Latch hook Door Latch
  • Gilbert from West Jordan, UT
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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All Instructions for the DPGT750EC2PL
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