DLEX4080W (ABWEUUS) LG Dryer - Overview

Diagrams for DLEX4080W

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Thermal Fuse – Part Number: 6931EL3003D
$53.85
In Stock
Thermal Fuse
★★★★★
★★★★★
(9)
Part #6931EL3003D
It is used in dryers.
Moisture Sensor – Part Number: 6500EL3001A
$20.85
In Stock
Moisture Sensor
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★★★★★
(3)
Part #6500EL3001A
The moisture sensor, also known as a humidity sensor, works in conjunction with your dryer by helping determine the amount of moisture in the drum to reduce overdrying. If the timer doesn’t advance correctly, it is suggested to check the moisture sensor bar for damage. A damaged sensor can cause the automatic drying cycle to not work properly and will need to be replaced. This is a genuine OEM part. Please remember to disconnect the power to the dryer before starting this repair.
Dryer Drum Belt – Part Number: 4400EL2001F
$72.55
In Stock
Dryer Drum Belt
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★★★★★
(3)
Part #4400EL2001F
The drive belt is made to wrap around the drum, working with the tension pulley to rotate the drum. If your dryer drum will not turn, then you may need to replace your belt. This drive belt is 1/4-inch wide with 4 ribs and 3 grooves. It is recommended to disconnect the power to your dryer before you start your repair. This drive belt is a genuine OEM part.
Felt Seal – Part Number: 4036EL3001A
$52.75
In Stock
Blower Thermostat – Part Number: 6931EL3002M
$46.15
In Stock
Pulley Idle – Part Number: 4560EL3001A
$42.99
In Stock
Pulley Idle
Part #4560EL3001A
Dryer Thermostat Assembly – Part Number: 6931EL3001F
$59.35
In Stock
Dryer Thermostat Assembly
Part #6931EL3001F
Dryer Leg – Part Number: 4778EL3001B
$13.15
In Stock
Dryer Leg
Part #4778EL3001B
This plastic adjustable dryer leg is used to support the weight and adjust the height of your dryer to keep it level. To install the leg, tip the dryer back and screw it into the bottom of your dryer unit. Please note that this dryer leg is sold individually.
High Limit Thermostat and Thermistor Kit – Part Number: AGM30045804
$89.05
In Stock
High Limit Thermostat and Thermistor Kit
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(1)
Part #AGM30045804
This thermistor is used in dryer
Side Venting Kit – Part Number: 3911EZ9131X
$107.90
In Stock
Safety Switch Assembly – Part Number: EBF61496102
$46.15
In Stock
Dryer Locker Assembly – Part Number: 4027EL1001A
$35.15
In Stock

Common Symptoms of the DLEX4080W

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Dryer would run with no heat
98 of 116 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Richard from ORMOND BEACH, FL
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
I actually went to mr fix it on u tube. Great instruction on how to take dryer apart. First I unplugged the dryer. I found I could reach the heating system by removing the lint tube in the back of the dryer. I put my I phone with the light on inside the back of the dryer and tested the connections to see if all were working. The thermal f use was not working. I removed the two wires , red on top and white on the bottom. Then used a small Phillips screwdriver to remove the two mounting screws and removed the fuse. I then used a vacuum to clear any lint from the back of the dryer and inside the dryer. This took me about an hour and a half. I did it this way because I did not want to disassemble the entire dryer to get to the components. I received the fuse in 3 days and tested it. It was fine. I then put it in the dryer screwed it in place, connected the wires. Replaced the lint tube. This took about 10 minutes. Dryer is running great.
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The dryer worked fine except the dryer did not heat up
29 of 32 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Catherine from COVINGTON, WA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
I unplugged the dryer and disconnected the vent.
I pulled the dryer away from the wall so I had room to work on it.
Pulled the top cover off (slides back).
Took the door off
Took the front adjustable feet on the bottom off
Unscrewed all of the face screws on the front of the dryer
Took the two screws off of t he back of the control panel holding the control panel to the metal frame.
Gently pulled on the control panel to reveal 4 screws under the control panel to be able to take the front cover off.
Pulled the front cover off (the dryer door front cover).
Pulled the dryer vent cover off (two screws).
I could now see the heating element with sensor/fuse (right side).
Did a continuity test (beep) on all visable sensors/fuses on the heating element. No beep on the thermal fuse (used website diagram to locate parts to test and replacement part numbers).
Got the part after about a week, tested the parted (it beeped), replaced with new part and put dryer back together, plugged in and the dryer heated. Problem solved.
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No heat; flow-sense error diagnosed but no blockage in exhaust.
17 of 17 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Daniel from MANALAPAN, NJ
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Screw drivers
The first thing I did was locate a copy of the Service Manual (not the User / Owner Manual). After looking at that and looking online I learned that there is no sensor for the Flow Sense feature itself. The Flow Sense doesn't detect a blockage. It detects excessive heat and the manufacturer has simply concluded that too much heat is most likely caused by a blocked duct and then it activates the Flow Sense safety feature: cutting off the heat source. Since I knew it was a heat problem I figured I'd get inside and check the two thermostats and the igniter. Igniter was fine, one thermostat was fine, the other one - the High Limit Thermostat - was giving inconsistent readings. I replaced it. Here's how: First I took the dryer apart. This is a little time consuming. There are a lot of parts that need to come out. I recommend that you put the screws in small baggies with a note as to where you took them out of so that you know where they go when you put it back together. You need to remove part of the back, the top and the front. I removed the electrical box because that is what is shown in the manual but I'm not convinced that I needed to. See if you can get the rest of the dryer apart without removing it but if you have to remove it it's not that big of a deal. It's a little tricky to detach the wire harnesses is all. And extra steps, of course. I did not remove the drum. Instead I just reached inside with the front off and pulled the wires off the thermostats to test them for resistance with a multimeter. It was kind of a pain and a little awkward but I did not want to mess with the drum tensioner. Once I figured out that the High Limit Thermostat was the likely culprit I removed it - which required a very short Phillips head screw driver and some patience since I could not actually see one of the screws. But all good. Just remember which wire goes on which terminal. Make a note for yourself: gray back / red front - something like that. Then I ordered the part and installed the new one and rebuilt the dryer in reverse from what I did.

Now, here's the thing: I actually did two things: aside from changing the thermostat I also thoroughly cleaned out the dryer. Somehow a lot of lint built up in there - no idea how since it all appeared to leave the dryer through the vent. but there must be some small gap somewhere. I cleaned everything including the flame detector. When I put it all back together it worked but I'm not 100% sure that the thermostat was bad. It's at least possible that all the lint and dirt was messing with the way the thermostats behaved. So what I would recommend, if you have this problem, is to clean it out first and then put it back together enough to run it and see of the heat comes on. It will take maybe 30-60 seconds for the heat to come on while the igniter lights. If not, go ahead and replace whichever thermostats or other parts you think are broken.
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