Models > DC3820W0

DC3820W0 General Electric Dryer - Overview

Sections of the DC3820W0

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Interlock Switch – Part Number: WD21X10261
Interlock Switch
★★★★★
★★★★★
(13)
PartSelect #: PS1481922
Manufacturer #: WD21X10261
This part is a simple on/off mechanism that prohibits the appliance from operating when the door is open.
$33.12
  Special Order
Door Latch – Part Number: WE1M1011
Door Latch
★★★★★
★★★★★
(2)
PartSelect #: PS3502777
Manufacturer #: WE1M1011
This part helps to keep the door closed while the machine is running.
$14.51
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Drum Bearing Sleeve – Part Number: WE1M462
Drum Bearing Sleeve
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
PartSelect #: PS266777
Manufacturer #: WE1M462
Sold individually.
$9.84
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Door Strike – Part Number: WE1X1192
Door Strike
★★★★★
★★★★★
(2)
PartSelect #: PS266893
Manufacturer #: WE1X1192
TThe door strike for your dryer is mounted on the dryer frame that the door shuts onto. It fits into the door catch on the door and keeps the door closed. If the door strike is damaged or missing, the...
$10.89
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Drum Glide Bearing - White (Sold individually) – Part Number: WE3M51
Drum Glide Bearing - White (Sold individually)
PartSelect #: PS4704230
Manufacturer #: WE3M51
$13.36
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Rear Drum Bearing Kit – Part Number: WE25M40
Rear Drum Bearing Kit
★★★★★
★★★★★
(2)
PartSelect #: PS267529
Manufacturer #: WE25M40
This rear drum bearing kit comes with a shaft, bearing and installation instructions. The bearing plate comes with a slot in it for the ground strap. Helps keep your dryer running as smoothly as poss...
  No Longer Available
High Limit Thermostat - L315-65 – Part Number: WE4M137
High Limit Thermostat - L315-65
★★★★★
★★★★★
(6)
PartSelect #: PS267900
Manufacturer #: WE4M137
This part is the replacement high-limit thermostat or safety thermostat for your dryer. The high-limit thermostat is found on the upper right-hand side of the heater housing, and it cuts off power to ...
$33.12
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Retainer O-Ring – Part Number: WE1M461
Retainer O-Ring
PartSelect #: PS266776
Manufacturer #: WE1M461
This is a replacement O-ring for the drum bearing retainer on your dryer. The drum bearing is found at the back of the dryer drum. The O-ring is designed to create a seal on the drum bearing. The O-r...
$32.62
  Special Order
Drive Belt – Part Number: WE12M24
Drive Belt
PartSelect #: PS755943
Manufacturer #: WE12M24
  No Longer Available
GRID – Part Number: WE01X25914
GRID
PartSelect #: PS12068859
Manufacturer #: WE01X25914
  No Longer Available
Idler Pulley Wheel – Part Number: WE12X83
Idler Pulley Wheel
PartSelect #: PS265721
Manufacturer #: WE12X83
A dryer's idler pulley wheel serves to help the belt to rotate the drum.
  No Longer Available
Lint Screen - Metal – Part Number: WE18M15
Lint Screen - Metal
PartSelect #: PS668216
Manufacturer #: WE18M15
This filter collects lint as it passes through the dryer vent
$56.52
  Special Order

Questions And Answers for DC3820W0

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Common Symptoms of the DC3820W0

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Noisy
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Door won’t close
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Will Not Start
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Marks left on clothes
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Door latch failure
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Too hot
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
dryer door wont stay shut
pulled out door striker anddoor latch out with pliers and just pushed in new parts. works like new in under a min.
Parts Used:
Door Latch Door Strike
  • robert from mount joy, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers
80 of 118 people found this instruction helpful.
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belt broken, pulley worn out
Removed 4 screws from top of control panel , remove 2 from back to lossen top of dryer. Removed rear lower access cover,6 screws on back of dryer exposing pulley and tensioner, remove broken belt and vaccuumed out a ton of lint , removed pulley and tensioner and replaced. From the front remove 4 screws and take off front of dryer, disconnecting several wires, again vaccumed out lint, lifter drum evough to replace belt. Reassembled
Parts Used:
Idler Pulley Wheel
  • Anthony from Mpls, MN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Socket set
68 of 102 people found this instruction helpful.
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Rubbing/Squealing Noise While Drying, especially during cold weather
This part arrived at our house two days after I ordered it. I was stunned by how quickly it arrived.

Our dryer was making a very annoying squeaking/rubbing noise while drying and it became worse as the outside temps dropped (it's winter)...colder air cooling the exhaust line, causing metal in dryer to contract more.

I called an appliance repair service and they said, "Honestly, your money is going to be better spent to just buy a new dryer. The bearings on these are a pain to replace."

Yeah, right.

I've never taken apart a dryer, but it took me less than 45 minutes to complete this repair and our dryer is back to normal. Total cost was $18, including shipping. A $300 savings versus buying a new dryer.

There is another description of the process for this part so I won't repeat it all.

I did it a little differently than most, namely I did not remove the dryer drum. I simply pulled it out about six inches (make sure and slide belt back as you inch out the drum). But first, unplug the dryer, then remove the top, then the front.

A Philips screwdriver will quickly remove the top of the dryer (two screws on inside front, where door closes) and the front face (two screws at top of front, inside face). Lift the front up about an inch and it is free. I had to disconnect a couple wires, just make sure you mark before you disconnect them.

With that done, the drum will pull straight toward you (out). Make sure and support the weight of the drum as you slide it out. I found no need to remove the drum.

At the rear inside of our drum, there are three Torx screws that hold the bearing assembly on. I have a pretty long reach so I just removed two of the Torx screws, then reached around the back of the drum while removing the third screw, to keep the bearing assembly from falling onto the floor behind the back of the drum.

This plastic bearing is held to the bearing shaft by a little o-ring. Just pull the o-ring off, slide off the old bearing, slide the new bearing on and replace the o-ring (if yours is broken, any home store will have one that will work as a replacement in their faucet repair department).

Reattach the bearing housing to the drum with the Torx screws (get all three started before you tighten any of them), slide the drum back in - make sure you slide the belt as you move the drum back in and support the weight of the drum so you don't bash the bearing assembly into the back of the dryer.

You're doing this part blind, but in a few seconds, you can guide the bearing back into the hole in the back wall of the dryer. It just slides into the hole, nothing fancy.

Put the front of the dryer back on. Then replace the top (I had to remove the five screws on top of the dial panel to give it some flex so the top would pop back into place without stressing the dial panel), plug the dryer back in, and fire it up.

45 minutes after this part arrived at our home, our dryer problems were gone. Now that I've done one, I could probably do it in 20 minutes the next time (it's that simple/easy). And we didn't need a new dryer. Makes me think I should have the appliance guy who told me we needed a new dryer to direct all of these "pain in the fanny" bearing replacements to me because I could charge someone $50 total for the repair and make good money.

Hope all this babble helps someone else who doesn't need a new dryer.
Parts Used:
Drum Bearing Sleeve
  • Gary from Spring Hill, TN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
51 of 61 people found this instruction helpful.
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