This an authentic OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb, used in a number of household appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, which is why these replacement bulbs are mos...
This oven door seal is seventeen and a half inches long. It is made of rubber and has a metal hook on either end to hold it in place. This seal sits on top of the glass window pane.
This oven door seal is fifteen and a half inches long. It is made of rubber and has a metal hook on either end to hold it in place. This seal sits on top of the glass window pane.
$72.77
In Stock
Questions And Answers for CWG3100AAE29
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3 questions answered by our experts.
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Rusty
October 28, 2022
What does error code f2e0 mean
For model number CWG3100AAE29
Hi Rusty, thank you for reaching out. According to our research error code f2e0 indicates some keys are stuck on the oven user interface. To fix this error code, you need to replace the electronic control board, part number PS11750218. We hope this helps! If you need help placing an order, customer service is open 7 days a week. Thanks again for your great question.
Hi Cynthia, thank you for getting in touch. The F5 error code means the control output is disabled, which indicates the control board, part number PS11750218, is faulty and would need to be replaced. Glad to be of help!
The screen isn't working and there is proper voltage going to eat. The oven completely dead no power to the control screen or gas (no flame)
For model number CWG3100AAE29
Hello Dewayne, thank you for your inquiry. Based on the description that you have provided, we would recommend checking the oven control board, part number PS11750218, to fix the issue. Glad to be of assistance!
My oven has two igniters so I needed to determine which one was the problem.
Using the amp/multi meter I tested the connection between the igniters and the valve, with the oven turned on, to find the bad igniter. Depending on the model of stove you have, the amp reading you need for a properly functioning igniter will vary. My lower igniter read 2.7 amps with a rated amp between 3.3 and 3.6. So that was the culprit.
Replacing the igniter was easy. Two screws and a wire connected with a plug. I was able to do the diagnosis and unplug the wire without pulling the oven out. I pulled the drawer out and removed the two screws in a cover behind where the drawer was. You may not be so lucky…I have long arms.
I found removing the oven door made it easier to reach the igniter itself. To remove the door just open it slightly and pull up, it should come off easy…and replace in opposite manner.
Keep track of your screws and put it back together the way you found it except for the igniter that is.
Anyone with moderate technical skill could easily do this repair. The diagnosis is the hard part. I estimate I saved about $200 doing it myself.
I removed the oven door, unscrewed a couple of screws, replaced the ignitor, put screws back in, done! Sometimes it would take my oven up to an hour to heat up and sometimes it just wouldn't heat up, just fill the house with a gas smell. Now, it heats up in about 3 minutes!! We were considering buying a new oven, we will just keep this one. $40.00 beats $700.00
First I pulled out the oven from the cabinet. Disconected the power, I removed the cover from the back, disconected the wires from the igniter. Removed the igniter from inside the oven. Reversed the process to install the igniter. Turned on the oven, it worked. Sat down and had a beer.
