This grease filter is sixteen and a half inches long and nine inches wide. It is made of metal and is intended for use with downdraft ranges and cooktops.
This is the replacement surface burner switch for your range. It measures approximately 1.5 inches by 1.5 inches, with a shaft that is approximately 1 inch long. The surface burner switch turns the su...
This exhaust vent blower wheel is almost seven inches in diameter, and just under four inches deep. It is made entirely of metal and is used with a range's venting system.
This range top is black in color and is made of metal and glass. This top assembly has four holes for burner knobs.
$790.69
On Order
Questions And Answers for CVE3401B
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Derek
September 14, 2022
Hello!
I have a Jenn air with a cracked stove top! The model number is CVE3401 and it is black. Is the CVE3401B the correct part for this? I wondered whether the “B” describes the color or some design upgrade that would make it incompatible. Please advise. Thanks!
For model number CVE3401B
Hello Derek, Thank you for your inquiry. We have researched the model number that you have provided and the B would indicate the black version. The compatible black cooktop glass is part# PS2084686. We hope this helps and if you need help placing an order for a part, customer service is open 7 days a week. Please feel free to give us a call. We look forward to hearing from you!
Do you have to remove the down draft and every thing that is connected to the glass top to repair a burner switch or can you just remove the glass top and how?
For model number CVE3401B
Hello Marilyn, Thank you for the question. You just need to remove the Glass Cooktop to access the Switches for the Burners. We hope this helps!
Remove Ceran Galss top by removing hex screws below the rim. Also remove the two opposing screws in the center of the downdraft opening. Ceran top comes off easily now. The instructions with the new switch were very poorly written, so here is how I got the new switch to work: Attach the black wire(s) from the old switch (terminal 2) to the new switch terminal P1. Also attach the jumper cable to P1 and "jump" it to S1.
Attach the orange wire (old switch terminal 5) to S2 Attach the yellow wire (old switch terminal 4) to 4a Attach the tan/(white?) wire (old switch terminal 3) to terminal 4 on the new switch Attach the single red wire from the right front element to terminal 2 on the new switch. Attach the 'compound' red wires (the ones that come from the left rear/outlet connection and is also attached to the right rear switch) to terminal P2 on the new switch. There is no need to seperate the compound red wires as the instructions might lead you to believe. Good Luck
The repair itself was very easy. “How to connect” was very hard to get.
To get access to the switch, unscrew 2 screws from each side of front panel and then 4 screws from the bottom of it (open the door first). Have a box or a small table about 30” high to use it as support for the front panel.
The end result (colors for the Right Front- R.F.- burner) : Old label -> New label
1. Double RED: N -> P2 (incoming power, Line 1) 2. Single RED: N -> 2 (to Inner AND Outer heating elements common wire) 3. Single BLK: L1 -> P1 (incoming power, Line 2) 4. Single TAN: H1 -> 4 (to the Inner heating element) 5. Single YEL: H2-> 4a (to the Inner heating element) 6. Single BLK: P -> S2 (to the R.F. indicator control light) 7. Attach jumper black wire (included with new switch) from P1 (P1 has two connectors close together) to S1.
Undid two screws on underside of cook top, lifted and exposed underside. Transferred wires from the faulty burner to the new burner, one at a time, paying close attention to their respective position on the wiring posts/terminals. Undid two screws holding old burner and then mounted the new burner to underside of cook top. Was really simple to do. :)
