This 18 ml bottle of white appliance touch-up paint is used to cover scratches or marks on your appliance. The white touch-up paint can be used on refrigerators, microwaves, ranges, clothes dryers, an...
This eight-hour defrost timer will replace most other defrost timers. This device acts like a clock. It continually advances and alternates between activating the cooling cycle and the defrost heater....
This clip-on thermostat will sense the temperature increase in the evaporator during the defrost cycle and will cycle the defrost heater off after the ice or frost is melted.
This is a replacement crisper drawer for your refrigerator. The drawer is approximately 24 inches long, 11 inches wide, and 12 inches tall. It is made of clear plastic and is sold individually. The cr...
The door shelf retainer bar end cap connects to the retainer bar on your refrigerator’s door shelf, and attaches it to the refrigerator door. If your shelf retainer bar has become disconnected, a dama...
I troubleshot the problem by reading the electrical schematic and concluding the heating elements (defrost cables) were either defective or the bi-metal temp sensor was open. When closed the temp sensor completes the circuit for the current to flow through the heaters to defrost the cooling coils every 8 hours and then when the bimetal opens at 55 degrees the circuit is open and the coils are cooled because the refridgeration motor is in run mode. A timer between the motor and heater elements also was defective. The timer controls the cooling period and the defrost period. I ohmed out each part according to the spec sheet of normal resistance of parts and thus the bimetal and timer were defective. I gather a surge of some duration and amplitude affected these parts because a storm 24 hours prior to refridgerator problem had passsed through the area and the AC electrical power had oscillated several times during that event. I used hand tools to do the repair. If you are not mechanically inclined a step by step proceedure would be moot. It is a matter of disassembly and assembly paying close attention to fragile parts.
I knew the chances of all the freon leaking out was unlikely so I looked at the wiring to the compressor and there was a capacitor and a starter/overload so i figured I would start there. I went on line and found the parts at this site and they were less than the minimum service call charge for a service tech so I figured what the heck let's give her a shot so I did give it a shot. I ordered the parts and they were there in less time than a service tech could come out and i installed the parts and guess what for 90.00 in parts and 15 minutes in time I repaired my refrigerator. Thanks guys, It took less time to order the parts than it did to make the repair so thanks, your website rocks and is very well designed so my hat is off to you guys!
My refrigerator is approximately seven years old (date of manufacture: 2001). I had come home twice in the last month to find that it had not been running for several hours (ice melted, milk spoiled, etc.) but it would start running again if I twisted the thermostat knob. So, I ordered a new thermostat. First I removed the 1/4" hex screw that held the plastic thermostat housing in place (it screws up into the top of the refrigerator compartment). Then I removed the plastic thermostat knob and slid the old thermostat out of the housing. I then disconnected the wires one-by-one from the old thermostat and connected them to the new one so I could be certain they were all connected correctly. Finally, I pulled the plastic sheathing off the old sensor wire, slid it onto the new one and popped the wire back into place. Slide the thermostat back into the housing, screw the housing back into the top of the refrigerator compartment, replace the plastic thermostat knob, and the job is done.
