CGR3765BDC Magic Chef Range - Overview

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Light Bulb - 40W – Part Number: 8009
$26.41
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Light Bulb - 40W
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Part #8009
This an authentic OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb, used in a number of household appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, which is why these replacement bulbs are most often used to light the inside of refrigerators and ranges. It features a standard socket base, which means you simply unscrew the burnt-out bulb and screw in the replacement. Depending on the appliance you may require a screwdriver or nut driver to access the light bulb. We recommend you wear work gloves while handling this replacement part. It is constructed of glass and metal and is sold individually. Depending on the appliance and location of the bulb within it, you may want to consider disconnecting power and using a flashlight for easier access to unscrewing and re-screwing in your bulb during this repair.
Oven Igniter - Vertical Mount Bake and Broil – Part Number: 74007498
$67.05
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Oven Igniter - Vertical Mount Bake and Broil
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Part #74007498
This broil igniter assembly comes with its own metallic mounting bracket and an seven inch long dual wire lead with a plastic plug.
Short Oven Sensor Kit – Part Number: 12001655
$53.85
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Short Oven Sensor Kit
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Part #12001655
This temperature sensor detects the temperature within the oven cavity.
Leveler Foot Screw (Nylon) – Part Number: W11665456
$33.95
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Leveler Foot Screw (Nylon)
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Part #W11665456
This leveling leg is two inches long. It is all black in color and it is made entirely of plastic.
Top Burner Igniter – Part Number: 74004053
$35.81
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Top Burner Igniter
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Part #74004053
This top burner igniter comes with a mounting bracket.
Range Door Gasket – Part Number: WPW10162384
$111.60
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Range Door Gasket
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Part #WPW10162384
This oven door gasket comes with built in retaining clips.
Screw – Part Number: W11233072
$30.40
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Screw
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Part #W11233072
This is a multi-use and multi-appliance screw. It can be used on a microwave, refrigerator, range/oven, air conditioner, dehumidifier, washer, or dryer. The measurements of this screw are 8 x 1/2 inch. It has 6 threads. Refer to the manual provided by the manufacturer for further information on repair and accurate guidance. Remember to wear work gloves as a safety precaution.
Door Hinge (Left Or Right Side) – Part Number: WP74011141
$183.21
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Door Hinge (Left Or Right Side)
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Part #WP74011141
This hinge can be used for either the left or the right side of the oven door. Sold individually.
Single Outlet Water Valve Kit – Part Number: 4318047
$57.58
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Single Outlet Water Valve Kit
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Part #4318047
The water inlet valve is a solenoid-operated switch located at the bottom of the refrigerator. When it is energized by electrical power, water is released from the supply line through the water valve and into the compact icemaker mold. ***Please NOTE: This part has been redesigned and may appear different than the original. It has a new quick connection. To install: cut the retaining nut off the existing water line and gently push into new valve. To remove: depress the ring that the tube slides into.
Spark Module - Oven – Part Number: 8215557
$144.52
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Spark Module - Oven
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Part #8215557
This part sends enough current to the igniter to create a spark to the bottom of the burner cap.
Range Anti-Tip Bracket – Part Number: WP3801F656-51
$15.34
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Range Anti-Tip Bracket
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Part #WP3801F656-51
Sold individually.
Dual Outlet Oven Safety Valve – Part Number: WP74006427
$406.21
In Stock
Dual Outlet Oven Safety Valve
Part #WP74006427
This gas oven safety valve is used to make sure that no gas is released until the igniter is ready to ignite. This part is for both the bake and broil igniter in your appliance.

Common Symptoms of the CGR3765BDC

How this model fails, and the parts that fix it.

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Oven wouldn’t heat up properly
249 of 284 people found this instruction helpful.
  • James from Berwick, ME
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
My oven has two igniters so I needed to determine which one was the problem.

Using the amp/multi meter I tested the connection between the igniters and the valve, with the oven turned on, to find the bad igniter. Depending on the model of stove you have, the amp reading you need for a properly functioning igniter will vary. My lower igniter read 2.7 amps with a rated amp between 3.3 and 3.6. So that was the culprit.

Replacing the igniter was easy. Two screws and a wire connected with a plug. I was able to do the diagnosis and unplug the wire without pulling the oven out. I pulled the drawer out and removed the two screws in a cover behind where the drawer was. You may not be so lucky…I have long arms.

I found removing the oven door made it easier to reach the igniter itself. To remove the door just open it slightly and pull up, it should come off easy…and replace in opposite manner.

Keep track of your screws and put it back together the way you found it except for the igniter that is.

Anyone with moderate technical skill could easily do this repair. The diagnosis is the hard part. I estimate I saved about $200 doing it myself.

Good luck.
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F1 code - gas over would not heat.
172 of 188 people found this instruction helpful.
  • george from birmingham, AL
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Repair tech checked oven and said the control panel was bad and needed to be replaced. The new control panel would cost over $450.00! I found that the oven sensor was bad and replaced it for $30.00. The old oven sensor had failed following a self cleaning cycle. I found that the wires coming out of it were burnt.

Replacing the oven sensor was very easy. I removed the back panels 6 screws to gain access to the sensor's connection. I then removed the 2 screw that hold the sensor in place inside the oven and pulled the old sensor out through the oven. I reversed this process to place the new sensor in the oven.
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gas burner ignitor failure
142 of 162 people found this instruction helpful.
  • roy from East Providence, RI
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Lift out sealed burner assembly rear of stove first while careully sliding to rear to disengage ignitor probes.Remove philips head screws from bottom sheet metal housing to expose bottom of burners Remove gas tube assembly screws and move tube away carefully.Unplug wires from ignitor.Remove screws for ignitor .Remove ignitor, I noticed t hat rust and dirt had built up around burner to pan connection.I used my oil filter wrench to turn slightly the burner to remove it from the pan to clean.Reassembled in reverse order.
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