This an authentic OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb, used in a number of household appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, which is why these replacement bulbs are mos...
$14.96
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The flat style gas oven igniter included in this kit has a body length of 3-3/4 inches. This kit comes with all of the pieces you need to replace longer ceramic igniters, though this kit can also repl...
$73.69
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This is a multi-use and multi-appliance screw. It can be used on a microwave, refrigerator, range/oven, air conditioner, dehumidifier, washer, or dryer. The measurements of this screw are 8 x 1/2 inch...
$26.51
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This part may differ in appearance, but functions same as original part. : This part sends enough current to the igniter to create a spark to the bottom of the burner cap.
$84.93
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This part sends enough current to the igniter to create a spark to the bottom of the burner cap.
$169.18
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Questions And Answers for CGR3765ADC
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Sheik
January 22, 2020
Looking for ingr.. the go in the burner like a ingientor i need 4
For model number CGR3765ADC
Hello and thank you for writing.
We believe you are referring to ignitor part # PS2082000. Please let us know if you need any further assistance. We hope this helps. Please contact us anytime
Hello Walker, thank you for reaching out. Based on the description that you have provided, we would recommend making sure that the burners are properly aligned and clean. If this does not resolve the issue, then you may need to check the pressure regulator, part number PS11744135, to solve the problem. We hope this helps.
The oven had been working intermittently for a while and after repeated threats of starvation from my spouse I finally took a look even though it was summer and the grill was working fine. The Igniter would glow red when the oven was turned on but the gas would not flow to it no matter what the temperature setting. I searched online and found this site that explained it was possible for the igniter to glow but if it was not drawing the correct amperage (because its resistance was too high) then the main brain would not allow the gas valve to open. So I took a look at the broiler and it had the same igniter. I measure the resistance of both of them and the oven igniters resistance was higher (don't rememeber the reading) then I moved the Igniter from the broiler to the oven and the oven worked from there it was just a matter of ordering the part. End of story except for I am still doing all the cooking on the barbecue outside.
Repair tech checked oven and said the control panel was bad and needed to be replaced. The new control panel would cost over $450.00! I found that the oven sensor was bad and replaced it for $30.00. The old oven sensor had failed following a self cleaning cycle. I found that the wires coming out of it were burnt.
Replacing the oven sensor was very easy. I removed the back panels 6 screws to gain access to the sensor's connection. I then removed the 2 screw that hold the sensor in place inside the oven and pulled the old sensor out through the oven. I reversed this process to place the new sensor in the oven.
Lift out sealed burner assembly rear of stove first while careully sliding to rear to disengage ignitor probes.Remove philips head screws from bottom sheet metal housing to expose bottom of burners Remove gas tube assembly screws and move tube away carefully.Unplug wires from ignitor.Remove screws for ignitor .Remove ignitor, I noticed that rust and dirt had built up around burner to pan connection.I used my oil filter wrench to turn slightly the burner to remove it from the pan to clean.Reassembled in reverse order.
