CGLGF382DSE Frigidaire Range - Instructions

It was the week before Thanksgiving and we didn't know what to do without an oven. I did some research on Google and of all the websites out there, I found a decent price here at Parts Select and ordered it on Friday. I was shocked when FEDEX pulled up to the door on Saturday afternoon. I went online to youtube and found a step by step video specifically for this part. It's posted by the Repair Clinic. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cLxKoF16gac. I was able to fix the part and probably saved at least $150.00 for a service call and repair time. The part cost about $90 and I was done in less than 15 minutes. We just got this stove about 2 years ago and I'm thinking maybe we could have saved my old stove since it had the same problem. Great job Parts Select - I got just what I needed and saved a ton of money in the process. Thanks also for their great informative video online. We had a great Thanksgiving and were very thankful for all our hot food fresh from the oven.

I followed the simple instructions that were included in the kit. I started by replacing the 5 orifices on the top burners. The orifices are well labeled with numbers and colors. Next, I tightened the broiler burner orifice and the oven burner orifice with a 1/2 inch wrench. I had to tighten them pretty good to get the flame down where it is supposed to be. Then, I checked for leaks and I was then ready to cook.

The LP conversion kit contained very good, detailed instructions. I replaced the gas orifices, took off the bottom door and adjusted the regulator.

Used the screwdriver to adjust the low flame and everything was done.

Cut off power at fuse panel. pulled stove out from wall went behind stove removed back panels in area of sensor that I could see from the front side, inside oven. Located sensor from rear & unpluged senser from wiring bundle reached inside oven & removed screws from sensor. Pulled sensor out & threaded wire through hole. Took old & new sensors to bench in shop. Plug on new not the same as old. Had to change plug Cut and stripped wires. Wire is very small, need to use a good stripper. Twisted wire together & soldered connection, used shrink wrap to insulate wire. Took part inside and reinstalled in reverse order. Used 1/4 inch nutdriver on total job start to finish.

Repair was quite easy, as long as you have the instructions for removing the door. The screws that hold the bottom of the door to the fixed hinge are placed into the side of the hinge assembly after removal; this holds the door at a 45 degree angle for easy removal. After that, just place the door on a flat surface and dismantle the door from the inside. The inner glass is contained in a metal frame with another piece of glass; this frame comes apart easily using the clips in each side. The door assembles easily after the glass is replaced; just take your time and give yourself enough room to lay out the parts as you go. Good luck!

I called a repair place. They charged $54 to diagnose, (said it needed a new latch motor) then wanted $220 to complete the repair. I checked online prices and did it myself for about 15 minutes work and the latch motor itself ($44?).

Was necessary to uplug the range, pull it away from the wall and remove the back panel sheet metal, then 3 screws that mount the motor. Replace motor, reattach sheet metal. Plug in. Done. Ready to bake cookies.

Turned power off at electrical panel. Pulled oven away from wall. Removed back cover (6 screws), then unplugged wires from old receptacle. I had to pull the squeeze clips backwards & break them to remove the old receptacle - couldn't squeeze them enough to remove them otherwise. The old receptacle came out through the inside of the oven, and the new one snapped in easily from inside the oven as well. Replaced wiring, installed new bulb, restored power & tested. Replaced back cover. Good time to vacuum under/behind where the oven usually lives before sliding it back to the wall.

I was selling my home and did not realize that the anti-tip bracket was not originally installed. A home inspection caught the problem and the buyers required that I install one. I could not find the original and obviously the installer never put it in place to begin with. The buyers wanted this resolved within a week so I had to act fast. I could not find one locally so I found what I needed on your website. It arrived in a couple of days and was easy to install. I used the template provided in the kit and drove the screws through the bracket into the wood plate behind the drywall. Pushed the range back in place and that's it. Couldn't get any easier.

Had to reference original owner's manual for instruction(s) on how to remove oven door. Used several "YouTube" videos to reference oven door design (Oven door glass is actually several layers of glass.) After completing about 30 mins of research and finding the right square drive bit, the repair went smoothly and without complications. The biggest challenge was researching and understanding what part(s) were needed and how to replace them. It seemed liked a lot of work doing the research however it sure beat a $350 repair bill. It cost me $90 and about 1 1/2 hours of total time. Oven works better than ever, thanks parts select for the part(s) and diagram(s) ...

After reading a lot of reviews online, I came to the conclusion it was the bake igniter. The "glow rod" would glow but would not ignite the oven. The broiler would ignite and the top burners would work. I removed the racks, took a screwdriver and removed the 2 screws in the back corners. I then slid the bottom shield towards the back then lifted up and the shield came off and exposed the flame shield. I removed the screws the hold that in place on the front of the oven with my 6 way screwdriver. I used the nutdriver part. Lifted that off which exposed the the actual flame tube and bake igniter. There were two screws, used the nutrdiver on the 6 way screwdriver, holding the bake igniter on. The screws are on the side of it. Removed those and the igniter came free. I pulled out the warming drawer and followed the wire from the igniter to a wiring harness. Pulled that apart and pulled the whole thing out through the oven. Got the new part, reversed order of removal. Fired right up. Pretty pricey part. But, saved 500+ dollars for a new range. Actual removal and install of new part, maybe 20 minutes if that. Super easy.

Started by replacing element which was clearly broken. Still no heat. So then I changed the oven sensor. Was disappointed that when I received the sensor I had to cut and splice the connector that was on it with the old one that came off the old sensor. Did that and still no heat so I had to buy a new clock/timer. Went to another store for that because of the connector not being the right type and there was no picture of the clock/timer like the other website. Overall ok, normall troubleshooting steps, just wish I didn't have to cut and splice the connector on the new sensor I purchased from here.

First I removed the two screws that hold the bottom panel I then pulled the panel out and put the new panle in and put the two screws back in

Removed the broken door handle with a screwdriver, replaced the new door handle with a screwdriver. Took less than a couple of minutes to make the repair.

removed two screws disconnected inlet pipe and two outlet pipes, removed regulator. Replaced with new regulator. performed leak Test.

removed the two screws that hold the handle and oven top cap in place. I then pulled the handle and oven top cap up and off the door. This exposed the glass guides on both sides and bottom. I placed the new glass in the guides, replaced the oven top cap by carefully fitting the glass into the top cap and holding the oven handle in place to accept the two screws from the inside of the oven door. Very simple assembly.