Models > BISW42ELD

BISW42ELD General Electric Refrigerator - Overview

Sections of the BISW42ELD

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Manuals & Care Guides for BISW42ELD

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Union Connector - 5/16 Inch to 5/16 Inch – Part Number: WR02X11330
Union Connector - 5/16 Inch to 5/16 Inch
PartSelect #: PS758446
Manufacturer #: WR02X11330
Quick connector for plastic water line - 5/16" to 5/16"
$21.88
  Special Order
Light Switch – Part Number: WR23X10725
Light Switch
★★★★★
★★★★★
(7)
PartSelect #: PS8758429
Manufacturer #: WR23X10725
$21.88
  Special Order
Dual Inlet Water Valve – Part Number: WR57X10051
Dual Inlet Water Valve
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
PartSelect #: PS901314
Manufacturer #: WR57X10051
This valve comes with 1/4" compression inlet. NOTE: This part comes with new quick connections. To install - cut retaining nuts off of existing plastic water lines and gently push them into new valv...
$78.51
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Defrost Timer - 120V 60Hz – Part Number: WR9X502
Defrost Timer - 120V 60Hz
★★★★★
★★★★★
(3)
PartSelect #: PS310869
Manufacturer #: WR9X502
This defrost timer will cycle for twenty-five minutes after every six hours of run time. The timer itself is made of plastic, and its terminals are bent, the leads are internal, and the label is orange.
$118.96
  Special Order
Light Socket – Part Number: WR2X9391
Light Socket
PartSelect #: PS299782
Manufacturer #: WR2X9391
This part is a replacement light socket for your refrigerator. It connects to the power source, and holds the light bulb. If the light in your refrigerator is not working, you could have a faulty sock...
$13.72
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Condenser Fan Motor - 115V – Part Number: WR60X187
Condenser Fan Motor - 115V
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
PartSelect #: PS304731
Manufacturer #: WR60X187
This part comes with 3 round pin connection terminals. This fan motor circulates the air through the refrigerator grille and cools the compressor and condenser coils. It also helps to evaporate extra...
$95.02
  Special Order
Package of 12 Screws – Part Number: WZ4X244D
Package of 12 Screws
PartSelect #: PS312573
Manufacturer #: WZ4X244D
This is a package of twelve Phillips-head screws. They can be used as replacement screws in refrigerators, ice makers, or freezers. Be sure to check that your appliance model is compatible with these ...
  No Longer Available
Ice Dispensing Drive Cup – Part Number: WR2X4550
Ice Dispensing Drive Cup
PartSelect #: PS297895
Manufacturer #: WR2X4550
Found at the end of the auger in the ice container - replace when the icemaker doesn't dispense ice.
$30.37
  Special Order
Fan Blade with Clamp – Part Number: WR60X123
Fan Blade with Clamp
PartSelect #: PS304693
Manufacturer #: WR60X123
This blade attaches to the evaporator motor.
  No Longer Available
Power Cord – Part Number: WR23X10300
Power Cord
PartSelect #: PS759476
Manufacturer #: WR23X10300
$44.31
  Special Order
Auger and Ice Bucket Assembly – Part Number: WR17X4312
Auger and Ice Bucket Assembly
PartSelect #: PS294039
Manufacturer #: WR17X4312
This auger and bucket assembly is used on 25 cubic feet and 27 cubic feet side by side models.
$326.72
  Special Order
Snack Dish Cover – Part Number: WR2X9357
Snack Dish Cover
PartSelect #: PS299749
Manufacturer #: WR2X9357
  No Longer Available

Questions And Answers for BISW42ELD

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Common Symptoms of the BISW42ELD

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Leaking
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Light not working
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Ice maker not making ice
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Not dispensing water
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Fridge too warm
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Ice maker won’t dispense ice
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Freezer section too warm
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Noisy
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Freezer not defrosting
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Will Not Start
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Fridge and Freezer are too warm
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Fridge runs too long
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Freezer too cold
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Cracked housing on the vaave
1. Turn off water supply, and electrical ( unplug it) to fridge.
2. Remove water line to valve. Watch for water to pour out of the line. Have a towel handy.
3. Remove the cardboard cover on the bottom of the fridge.
4. Remove the screws that hold the valve in place.
5. Remove the valve, be careful the waterlines are still attached.
6. Place a towel under valve to catch any water that leaks out from water lines.
7. Remove electrical lines, make sure to mark which went where. One is for the ice, and one is for the water. Make sure the power is off, there is 120 volts present at those connections.
- now my waterlines attached using a compression type fitting. The new valve I got used just a push in type of attachment. But, easy enough I just removed the pieces for the compression and the waterlines pushed right in and worked fine.
- the mounting harness for the valve was alittle different but the parts I need were in the right location and she fit in fine.
8. Attach water lines. They are different sizes so you can't get those mixed up.
9. Attach electrical lines.
- the new valve came with adaptors for my electrical connection. Just snapped them on and kept on going.
10. turn on watersupply for fridge. Plug it back in.
11. Test for leaks, and proper operation. ie. When you push the water does the water valve open?
12. Unplug fridge
13. Now is a good time to clean out any dust or dirt that has accumallated in under around your fridge.
14. reassemble, valve, then cover. move fridge back into place.
15. Plug fridge back in.
16. Take a clean glass.
17. Fill with water from the front.
18. Take full glass of water and go watch tv. You've earned it, and saved yourself probably $100.00 in labor costs. Good Job.
Parts Used:
Dual Inlet Water Valve
  • anthony from thornton, CO
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
286 of 306 people found this instruction helpful.
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Sticking Light Switch
I applied some tips learned by reading other reviews. So before I started I grabbed my trusty vise grip pliers and a small screw driver. I locked onto the switch actuator, the part that the refrigerator door pushes in, with the vise grips and pulled on it just hard enough to get the screw driver inserted in the right side to push in the catch clip so the switch could be pulled out further each time the catch clip was depressed to the next detent. Then I used the screw driver on the left site to encourage the switch past the detents on the left and very quickly the switch was out of the mount. The wires from the refrigerator pulled out with the old switch. I unplugged the old switch from the wires and plugged in the new switch and shoved the new switch back into the mount, wiggled it a couple of times to make sure it was secure and the job was done. Once I applied the vise gripes at first, the whole job took less than a minute.
Parts Used:
Light Switch
  • Jonathan from Lilburn, GA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
116 of 144 people found this instruction helpful.
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refrigerator was not cooling but the freezer worked fine.
My husband put on the defrost timer. At first I thought the part was not going to fix the problem. After about 5 hours my refrigerator was still warm. I went to work and when I got home that evening my refrigerator was cooling and down to 28 degrees. So if you replace this part wait at least 12-24 hours. Give it time to stablize. My husband says it has to go through its cycle. It works on a 24 hour timer. My refrigerator is working fine and this has saved me alot of money. My husband says, once you put on the timer you may have to use a flat screwdriver and turn the small dial clockwise one click to start it. He removed the kick grill and replaced the part. Dont forget to shut breaker off to replace this part. Turn power back on and start the timer. We are so happy that we now have a working refrigerator.
Parts Used:
Defrost Timer - 120V 60Hz
  • Wanda from Cabins, WV
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
86 of 100 people found this instruction helpful.
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