This gas dryer ignition coil set comes with two ignition coils: one three-terminal boost/hold coil, and one two terminal secondary coil. Usually only one of them burns out but you should replace them ...
This dryer drum belt from Amana has five ridges and is 93-3/8" inches in length, and 3/8 of an inch wide. It is flat, black in color, and is made entirely of rubber.
This part senses the flame for heat allowing the gas valve to open.This flame sensor is three inches long and is used for many gas clothes dryers.This flame sensor assembly is made of both plastic and metal.
Meant as a backup to a high limit thermostat, this fuse is typically set to trip at a higher temperature than that of a high limit thermostat. This is a one-time use fuse, so when it does trip, you do...
The first thing I did was to unplug the dryer from the wall. Then I removed the bottom two screws and slid the bottom cover off so i could see all the way to the back, I tipped the dryer back against the wall and searched for the problem with a flashlight. I noticed that one of the guide wheels that held the drum in place was sheared off. I took the new drum support roller out and carefully slid it over the shaft, I had to jiggle it around for a bit, but then it finally was seated correctly. I replaced the washer and then the clip using a pair of needle nose pliers and a regular screw driver and then turned the dryer by hand to see if the wheel came off. After confirming that it worked, I put the cover back on, and plugged it in and tested it.
I pulled the bottom panel and the door panel to replace the manifold and felt gasket around the drum. I removed old gasket very easily, it peeled right off. I use brake cleaning fluid (Spray Can from Auto Zone about $1.45) to remove old glue. Used spray contact cement (Elmer's about 4.50 at Ace) and sprayed the panel and gasket surfaces and let dry. I then applied a 2nd coat and let get "tacky" and installed the gasket. You will need an extra set of hands to hold the gasket in place while you stretch it over the the panel. The vent manifold is held in place with 3 phillips screws and was installed in about 10 minutes. The only gripe I had was in the Parts-Select illustrated breakdown they don't tell you the lint screen comes with the manifold assembly, so I bought one of them too. Now have an extra lint screen
1. Removed lint screen and holder frame. Unplugged the electrical cord and closed the gas valve in the line before it goes into the dryer. 2. Removed two bolts at bottom front of machine and took off the bottom front panel. 3. Removed three bolts from black plastic exit vent and took it out to give more room to access everything. 4. removed two wires and screws on the limit thermostat. Did the reverse to place the new one. 5. Removed wires (remembering placement), then holder screw. rotated the Gas Dryer Sensor counter clockwise to release the bottom tab so the sensor can be taken off the flame tube. Did the reverse to place the new one on. 6. Removed the one screw on the gas/flame tube that holds the bracket and igniter inside the flame tube. Removed the wires fro the igniter (remember placement) Slid the whole assembly toward the back of the machine to get the tube off the gas valve then rotated the whole assembly counter-clocwise to release the tab on the left side of the bracket. This was a little tight and had to work with it a bit to get the tab out and slide the whole piece out of the flame tube. 7. Once the tube and igniter were out i removed the scree that holds the igniter and replaced with the new one. Made sure no dust, etc. was in the piece. 8. Did the reverse to place the tube/igniter back into the flame tube. 9. Carefully and forcefully removed the wire connectors to the two coils. These were tough to get off. Removed the two screws that hold the bracket that holds the two coils in place. Slid the coils off the spindles remembering which one has the two wire connection and which one has the three wire connection and the way they went on. Replaced the old with the new. Placed the bracket onto the new coils and made sure the little bumps on the top are in the holes in the bracket. Tightened the screws to hold the coil bracket. Reattached the wire connectors to the coils making sure they go ALL the way back on. 10. Vaccumed everything I could to get lint, dust, etc. out. 11.Replaced the black vent plastic. 12 Made sure the exit vent on the back was not crimped or clogged. Checked the little flap door where the vent goes outside to make sure it opens and closes super easy to no air flow is restricted. 13. For testing I left the bottom panel open. Make sure you closed the door, reconnect the plug and turn the gas valve back on. Hit the go button on autodry or timed dry. The door must be closed to create the closed circulation of the system so the fan sucks the flame into the tube otherwise the flame will not fire deep into the tube and will set off one fo the overheat sensors. After hitting the go button your drum will start to rotate, then a few seconds later you'll hear a click and your igniter will start to burn bright orange. Another click and the gas should flow and ignite. 14. This shows that you've fixed the ignition problem. I just replaced everything I thought that could be wrong in stead of hunting and trial and error. All the parts were about $137 so I thought it was worth making sure. 15. IMPORTANT: If during your test the flame turns off after a little while then turns back on only to turn off again, don't panic. This happened to me as well. I found that you need to run the dryer with wet clothes in the dryer. The wetness in the clothes will keep the autodry sensor from shutting off the dryer since there will be moisture in the exhaust. If it's on timed dry the wet clothes will cool the exhaust air and keep the overheat sensors from turning the heat off. So no heating of dry clothes to get out wrinkles. Just dry the wet clothes. This is all I did and it's been working great so far. Good Luck!