AGS1740BDQ Amana Range - Overview

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Light Bulb - 40W – Part Number: 8009
$26.41
In Stock
Light Bulb - 40W
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Part #8009
This an authentic OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb, used in a number of household appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, which is why these replacement bulbs are most often used to light the inside of refrigerators and ranges. It features a standard socket base, which means you simply unscrew the burnt-out bulb and screw in the replacement. Depending on the appliance you may require a screwdriver or nut driver to access the light bulb. We recommend you wear work gloves while handling this replacement part. It is constructed of glass and metal and is sold individually. Depending on the appliance and location of the bulb within it, you may want to consider disconnecting power and using a flashlight for easier access to unscrewing and re-screwing in your bulb during this repair.
Oven Igniter - Vertical Mount Bake and Broil – Part Number: 74007498
$67.05
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Oven Igniter - Vertical Mount Bake and Broil
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Part #74007498
This broil igniter assembly comes with its own metallic mounting bracket and an seven inch long dual wire lead with a plastic plug.
Short Oven Sensor Kit – Part Number: 12001655
$53.85
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Short Oven Sensor Kit
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Part #12001655
This temperature sensor detects the temperature within the oven cavity.
Screw - 10-16 x 1 – Part Number: WP3387230
$10.44
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Screw - 10-16 x 1
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Part #WP3387230
This screw is sold individually.
Door Seal – Part Number: WP7212P043-60
$64.85
In Stock
Door Seal
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Part #WP7212P043-60
This door seal is fifty-three inches long. It is all black in color and is made of rubber. There are metallic clips sticking out of this seal at various points. These clips help to secure the seal to range doors.
Range Door Hinge – Part Number: WP74011140
$179.95
In Stock
Range Door Hinge
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Part #WP74011140
Each hinge is sold seperately.
Spark Module - Oven – Part Number: 8215557
$144.52
In Stock
Spark Module - Oven
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Part #8215557
This part sends enough current to the igniter to create a spark to the bottom of the burner cap.
Range Anti-Tip Bracket – Part Number: WP3801F656-51
$15.34
In Stock
Range Anti-Tip Bracket
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Part #WP3801F656-51
Sold individually.
Stand Mixer Screw – Part Number: WP4159193
$12.95
In Stock
Stand Mixer Screw
Part #WP4159193
This screw is sold individually.
Range Hex Nut – Part Number: WP488130
$12.05
Special Order
Range Hex Nut
Part #WP488130
Part may differ in appearance, but functions same as original.
Range Screw – Part Number: WP74010805
$14.25
In Stock
Range Screw
Part #WP74010805
Sold individually.
Range Light Assembly – Part Number: WP7407P182-60
$75.39
In Stock
Range Light Assembly
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Part #WP7407P182-60
Restore light inside a compatible oven with this replacement light socket assembly. It powers the oven bulb so you can view food without opening the door. Replace the socket if it is burned, broken, or no longer sends power to the bulb. Disconnect power before installation. Use the exact model number to confirm fit.

Manuals & Care Guides for AGS1740BDQ

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Common Symptoms of the AGS1740BDQ

How this model fails, and the parts that fix it.

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Oven wouldn’t heat up properly
249 of 284 people found this instruction helpful.
  • James from Berwick, ME
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
My oven has two igniters so I needed to determine which one was the problem.

Using the amp/multi meter I tested the connection between the igniters and the valve, with the oven turned on, to find the bad igniter. Depending on the model of stove you have, the amp reading you need for a properly functioning igniter will vary. My lower igniter read 2.7 amps with a rated amp between 3.3 and 3.6. So that was the culprit.

Replacing the igniter was easy. Two screws and a wire connected with a plug. I was able to do the diagnosis and unplug the wire without pulling the oven out. I pulled the drawer out and removed the two screws in a cover behind where the drawer was. You may not be so lucky…I have long arms.

I found removing the oven door made it easier to reach the igniter itself. To remove the door just open it slightly and pull up, it should come off easy…and replace in opposite manner.

Keep track of your screws and put it back together the way you found it except for the igniter that is.

Anyone with moderate technical skill could easily do this repair. The diagnosis is the hard part. I estimate I saved about $200 doing it myself.

Good luck.
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F1 code - gas over would not heat.
172 of 188 people found this instruction helpful.
  • george from birmingham, AL
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Repair tech checked oven and said the control panel was bad and needed to be replaced. The new control panel would cost over $450.00! I found that the oven sensor was bad and replaced it for $30.00. The old oven sensor had failed following a self cleaning cycle. I found that the wires coming out of it were burnt.

Replacing the oven sensor was very easy. I removed the back panels 6 screws to gain access to the sensor's connection. I then removed the 2 screw that hold the sensor in place inside the oven and pulled the old sensor out through the oven. I reversed this process to place the new sensor in the oven.
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Our oven would not heat up, smelled like gas.
67 of 76 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Theresa from Yorkville, IL
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
I removed the oven door, unscrewed a couple of screws, replaced the ignitor, put screws back in, done! Sometimes it would take my oven up to an hour to heat up and sometimes it just wouldn't heat up, just fill the house with a gas smell. Now, it heats up in about 3 minutes!! We were considering buying a new oven, we will just keep this o ne. $40.00 beats $700.00
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