This water filter purifies water going to the water dispenser and sometimes the icemaker as well. This part should be replaced if it is causing reduced water flow or just replaced periodically per the...
NOTE: This replacement ice maker mechanism does NOT come with a cover, shut off arm, a wire harness, or the mounting hardware. Those must be ordered separately, or you can use the existing parts.
The water inlet valve is a solenoid-operated switch that, when activated, releases water from the supply line to the water valve and into the compact icemaker mold and to the water line.
This condenser fan motor operates in a clockwise fashion and carries carries 2W and 115V. It comes with screws, a mounting nut for the blade and a cushion. This part provides forced-air cooling for the condenser coil.
This includes both the run capacitor and the start relay. The capacitor helps the compressor kick on and off while maintaining a constant temperature to keep things frozen in your freezer.
The start ...
This part, when activated, releases water from the supply line into the ice mold. This water inlet valve is for refrigerators.
Water inlet valve supplies water to the refrigerator ice maker and wat...
This light switch may also be known as a refrigerator door switch or a light switch kit, and is compatible with your refrigerator. The function of the refrigerator door switch is to turn on the light ...
This is a multi-use and multi-appliance screw. It can be used on a microwave, refrigerator, range/oven, air conditioner, dehumidifier, washer, or dryer. The measurements of this screw are 8 x 1/2 inch...
$26.51
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Questions And Answers for ACD2238HTS
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Edwin
February 13, 2023
Coils frost over replaced defrost thermostat checked heater coil it was ok but still does it is there a thermostat switch that can be checked and where would it be located. Thank you
For model number ACD2238HTS
Hello Edwin, thank you for contacting us. In your model the defrost function is controlled by the defrost control board, part number PS12349580. It manages the defrost cycle in the refrigerator as the evaporator temperature rises and falls. It is located in the defrost box in the controls. We would also recommend checking the defrost heater, part number PS11743581. We hope this sorts out your problem!
Freezer will hold 22 degrees and the fridge will hold 44 degrees. Checked freon level ok. Compressor fan runs. What to try first?
For model number ACD2238HTS
Hello Brandon, Thank you for the question. If the Coils are clean, we suggest checking the fan in the freezer to be sure it is running and circulating air properly. Listen to make sure the Compressor is kicking on and off normally and not running too long. You can also test the Defrost Thermostat. This is a temperature sensing mechanism. It can sense the rise in evaporator temperature during a defrost cycle and cycles the defrost heater off after all frost is melted from the coils. If this is not sensing properly it will not tell the heater to turn off. Set your multitester to the R X 1 ohms setting. Place each of the multitester's leads on a thermostat wire. When your thermostat is cold, it should produce a reading of zero on your multitester. If it is warm (anywhere from forty to ninety degrees Fahrenheit), then this test should produce a reading of infinity. If the results you receive from your test differ from the ones presented here, then you will need to replace your defrost thermostat. I hope this helps!
Hello Gerald, Thank you for the question. If the door is not closing and there is a Gap, this normally indicates the Door Gasket PartSelect Number PS11728030 will need to be replaced. We hope this helps!
Pressed in the end of the filter cover, lowered it down part way. Twisted the old filter 1/4 turn and removed it. Set in the sink to drain. Inserted new filter and twisted it to lock. closed cover. Done. Total time @ 1 Minute.
Interior surface of ice tray felt rough & flaky (coating deteriorated) so cubes would not release. Unplug appliance. Remove timer cover by hand pressure @ edge. Remove single attachment screw & bracket at lower front of icemaker. Disconnect wiring harness from socket @ rear of compartment. Tricky part was determining what type of connection held the other two attachment points along the long edge of the icemaker. I did not have repair manual or useful drawing but looked @ PartsDirect pic of side brackets & used a small mirror to confirm that mine were also some sort of "snap in" attachment. Remove icemaker unit by pushing upward and outward on the unit. I takes a good bit of pressure and will pop loose, but be careful not to break attachment bracket from freezer wall. Scavenge shut off bar and wiring harness from old icemaker once you have it out & attach to new one before installing it back in freezer. Again, you might find a mirror useful to align those pesky snap-in brackets with the new unit. Since you probably kept your freezer running while waiting for the part, the plastic snap-ins will be cold and brittle. I warmed them up first by applying a dampened cloth heated in the microwave to make them a little more pliable. A good push of the new unit towards the snap-ins along with some upward force will get it stable. Reattach the metal screw in bracket & connect the wiring harness to rear plug... and don't forget to plug the whole thing back in. It will take awhile for the first batch of cubes dump as the timer may need to cycle completely around to get to the fill cycle... be patient. Dump the first couple of batches of cubes just to make sure you're free of any residue.
unplugged refrigerator and shut off water, removed one screw and loosened two more, after removing one side of the ice bucket rail, unplugged electrical from old ice maker. Then I removed the bail and out on new one, reinstalled ice maker in reverse order from taking it out.