Sold individually. This crisper drawer is for refrigerators.
Crisper drawer stores fruits and vegetables at a humidity level that helps keep them fresh longer.
This 18 ml bottle of white appliance touch-up paint is used to cover scratches or marks on your appliance. The white touch-up paint can be used on refrigerators, microwaves, ranges, clothes dryers, an...
Glass NOT included. This is the frame only.
This crisper drawer cover frame is for refrigerators.
Crisper drawer cover frame supports the crisper drawer and holds the shelf that covers the crisp...
The water inlet valve is a solenoid-operated switch that, when activated, releases water from the supply line to the water valve and into the compact icemaker mold and to the water line.
This includes both the run capacitor and the start relay. The capacitor helps the compressor kick on and off while maintaining a constant temperature to keep things frozen in your freezer.
The start ...
This is a replacement pan glide for your refrigerator. The pan glide can be found attached to the refrigerator shelf, and allows the pan to slide in and out efficiently. If your refrigerator pan will ...
This is a deli drawer glide for the right side of your refrigerator. It allows the deli drawer to glide in and out smoothly. In order to access your glider, you will have to remove drawer and shelf, a...
Start by removing the freezer door and inner baskets so you have some space. Next, take out the ice maker by removing the 3 screws that attach it to the side and unplug it from the harness. Then the cover for the thermistor and the fan vent should be popped off carefully leaving the back cover only. The back cover is held on by 4 screws, one in each corner. Remove all 4 screws and carefully loosen the back cover by pulling the top forward and laying it level to pull it out. Behind the cover are the coils and other components. If the coils are covered with ice they should be defrosted by using a blow dryer. Once the ice is clear, the thermostat is located towards the top left clamped onto a copper pipe that circles up and around. Carefully pull it off the pipe and cut the wires making sure you leave enough to reattach the new ones with a butt connector. Strip about 1/4 inch of insulation off the wires and crimp both ends into the butt connector making sure they are tight. Heat shrink is highly recommended. Clamp the new thermostat to the copper pipe where the old one used to be and your almost done. Replace the back cover the opposite of the way it was pulled out by putting it in flat with the bottom part in front. Once it is all the way to where it needs to be, push the top upwards while sliding the bottom downwards, then push it in flat against the back. It can be bent slightly if needed. Put the screws back in that hold it on and replace the plastic covers. Then reinstall the ice maker being sure the hose for the water is correctly positioned so that the water goes into the ice maker. Turn it back on and put the baskets and door back on and you're done.
This is the 2nd time I have used PartSelect, and this experience was as pleasant as the 1st. The exploded-view diagrams make parts identification very easy; and the photo of the actual part is such a great idea, it allows you to verify what you need. I also got my part (cross country, in 3 days)
Repair Procedure: Shut off water supply. It may be easier to work if you disconnect the water supply tube, but it is not required. On the backside of the refrigerator, remove the bottom, black plastic protection panel. You will need a nut driver or battery-powered screw driver with a 3/8" socket tip on it. Next, remove the black metal panel that holds the water inlet valve in place. Remove screws with a nut driver. 1st remove the two flat-pin power connectors. (They are different sizes and color-coded, so there is no room for making a re-hookup mistake). Then proceed to remove the hoses. The hoses are pressure-lock tubing, so push the plastic disk in or down where the tube goes into the main body of the valve. Do this for all three hoses (tubes). Switch water valves and reverse the procedure. **Be certain that the tubes are pushed back in as far as they can go; if you do not re-seat the tubes, the pressure from the water going back in the valve, will blow the tubes right out the valve (ask me how I know this!). Once reassembled, turn the water back on slowly. Make sure you turn the water supply valve all the way open, it seats itself internally when you do and is less prone to drip leaks. That's it! (As a former kitchen remodeler, I find this a great DIY project).
