A4425GDTAWW General Electric Refrigerator - Overview

Enter a part description. DIY Heroes keep it simple, eg. "belt" or "pump".

Search filter:
Clear Filter
Your search term must have 3 or more characters.
Temperature Sensor – Part Number: WR55X10025
$34.68
Special Order
Temperature Sensor
★★★★★
★★★★★
(10)
Part #WR55X10025
Also known as a thermistor. This part is used to sense the temperature in the cabinet.
Union Connector - 5/16 Inch to 5/16 Inch – Part Number: WR02X11330
$23.79
Special Order
Union Connector - 5/16 Inch to 5/16 Inch
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
Part #WR02X11330
Quick connector for plastic water line - 5/16" to 5/16"
Main Control Board Assembly – Part Number: WR55X10942C
No Longer Available
Main Control Board Assembly
Part #WR55X10942C
This electronic board (Main Control Board Assembly, Control Board, Motherboard) controls the temperature and defrost functions of the unit. This control board is located on the back of the refrigerator, and measures 8 inches by 5 inches. It’s constructed of metal and plastic, and comes in green. This kit includes one main control board with built in defrost controls. If broken due to electrical surges or normal use, your fridge may experience temperatures that are too warm or too cold, or inconsistent defrost cycles. If this happens, the part should be replaced.
Defrost Thermostat – Part Number: WR50X10068
$60.28
Special Order
Defrost Thermostat
★★★★★
★★★★★
(2)
Part #WR50X10068
This defrost thermostat acts as a safety device against over heating in case of mechanical failure.
Light Bulb - 40W – Part Number: 40A15
$19.10
Special Order
Light Bulb - 40W
★★★★★
★★★★★
(3)
Part #40A15
This 40-Watt light bulb is sold individually. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, so this bulb is compatible with a variety of appliance types including refrigerators, ranges, microwaves, and dryers. It features a frosted glass bulb with a standard metal socket base, which allows you to easily unscrew the burnt-out light and twist the new bulb into place.
Evaporator/Condensor Fan Grommet – Part Number: WR02X10098
$17.70
Special Order
Evaporator/Condensor Fan Grommet
★★★★★
★★★★★
(4)
Part #WR02X10098
This evaporator fan motor grommet, or condenser fan grommet is built for refrigerators. It provides a cushion between the fan motor and the motor mounting bracket. It is made or round, black plastic and is approximately one inch in diameter. If your grommet is torn or damaged and you are getting noise from the fan motor, you may need to replace it. This is an OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer.
BUCKET AUGER – Part Number: WR29X43990
No Longer Available
BUCKET AUGER
★★★★★
★★★★★
(12)
Part #WR29X43990
When activated, the auger rotates and pushes ice out of the bin through the chute to the user.
Compression Ring – Part Number: WR02X12149
$13.95
Special Order
Compression Ring
Part #WR02X12149
Recess Door Spring – Part Number: WR02X10585
$13.95
Special Order
Recess Door Spring
★★★★★
★★★★★
(3)
Part #WR02X10585
This door recess spring or dispenser lever spring in your refrigerator is used to return the ice door to the closed position or the dispenser lever to the home position once released. You will find the spring in the water dispenser assembly, behind the main control panel. If the dispenser lever is malfunctioning or the dispenser ice door is not closing, you may need to replace this door recess spring.
Ice Maker – Part Number: WR30X10093
$267.74
Special Order
Ice Maker
★★★★★
★★★★★
(5)
Part #WR30X10093
This ice maker assembly is used to make ice in your refrigerator. The ice maker receives water from the water inlet valve and will freeze until ice cubes are formed. Once the water has been frozen the cubes will be ejected from the mold into the ice bucket. The ice maker will continue the process until the ice bucket has reached the limit. If your ice maker is not making ice you may need to replace this part. This kit includes the fill cup, 4-pin wire harness adapter, and a tube. Disconnect the power and water supply before starting your repair. This ice maker is a genuine OEM part.
Condenser Fan Motor – Part Number: WR60X10220
$95.07
Special Order
Condenser Fan Motor
★★★★★
★★★★★
(7)
Part #WR60X10220
This fan motor is most times used with frost-free refrigerators with a condenser coil. When the compressor runs, so does this fan, circulating air through the refrigerator grille, cooling the compressor and condenser coils. This fan motor also helps to evaporate excess water in the drain pan.
DISPENSER LIGHT – Part Number: WR01X37886
No Longer Available
DISPENSER LIGHT
★★★★★
★★★★★
(2)
Part #WR01X37886
This twelve volt dispenser light bulb is a little under two inches long.

Manuals & Care Guides for A4425GDTAWW

Click to download

Common Symptoms of the A4425GDTAWW

How this model fails, and the parts that fix it.

Watch our pros, then fix it yourself.

See how others fixed this model. Time, tools, difficulty, and steps that lead to victory! View More

Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!

Search filter:
Clear Filter
Your search term must have 3 or more characters.
Plastic Auger blades broke in ice tray
586 of 630 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Tim from Newport News, VA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
I used a digital camera and photographed the assembled unit and the metal blades before I started the repair. Then, I removed the top screw on the clear shield. Flip over ice tray and removed two Phillips screws on bottom. Exterior plastic white cover comes off next. The cover sides have hard push-in white plastic tabs. Push them in; pry up top cover with small flathead screwdriver. Slide white top cover up and you will now see the metal blades and assembly. Auger is held in place with a metal c-clip and washer on the end. Use flat head screwdriver to pry off c-clip. Then you will see a nylon round slotted nut. The threads are reverse, use pliers and loosen nut. It is not that tight but pliers are needed. Then it all is loose and ready for removal. I slid all the blades off at one time and kept them stacked together. Slide out auger and clear flat shield cover. Install new auger, clear shield, and metal blade stack. When you put it all back together take a look at the long metal J-hook on the bottom make sure it is in the slot before you make everything tight. Failing to do this will prevent cubed ice from dispensing.
It is not that hard to do the repair it just takes some patience and paying attention to details.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Fridge too warm, evaporator icing up
606 of 738 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Gerald from San Clemente, CA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
After replacing the defrost heater, main board and thermistor I still had the same problem. Called a repair guy and he (with the help of GE on the phone) diagnosed that the temperature sensor was bad. So I ordered from partselect and installed it and it fixed the problem. Been good for a couple months (knocking on wood). To install I had to cut the 2 wires to the old sensor, crimp the 2 new wires on and snap the new sensor to the clip on the evaporator. Very easy. Make sure you seal the ends of the wire crimps so moisture doesn't get in and corrode the connection.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
The refrigerator made continous "whooing" sounds that increased and decreased in pitch. Sounded like a ghost. Would keep us up at night. Also noticed that the heater was not heating under the evaporator coils.
561 of 652 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Holly Springs, NC
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
After checking the stories, the consensus of opinion was to change the mother board. I had a tremendous help from Tom Paone at [email protected]. He also told me to change the motherboard but to make sure that the coils were totally defrosted before starting up the refrigerator after changing the board.

Took off thr ee nuts around the board at the back of the unit. Removed the input wires and you have to push in the plastic tabs holding the board in. Then just put the new board in place and push till the tabs click. Re-install the wires and put the cover back on.

Really simple task,

It is now a week since doing this and the unit is working perfectly. No soulds and good nights sleep. The ghost has moved on.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!