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95-1982-00-00 Tappan Refrigerator - Overview
Diagrams for 95-1982-00-00
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$49.94
In Stock
Defrost Timer - 60Hz 120V
Part #215846602
This defrost timer will cycle for thirty minutes after every eight hours of run time.
$35.95
In Stock
Light Bulb
Part #316538904
This 40-watt appliance light bulb is a reliable replacement for use in select ranges, refrigerators, freezers, and microwaves. It provides bright, consistent lighting to help you see clearly inside your appliance. Installation is simple—just unscrew the old bulb and replace it with the new one. If the existing bulb is broken, disconnect p...Read moreower and use needle-nose pliers to safely remove the remaining base. Sold individually, this bulb is a commonly replaced part—consider keeping a spare on hand.
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$50.69
In Stock
Defrost Thermostat
Part #5303917954
This limiter thermostat cuts out when the temperature inside your refrigerator reaches 55 degrees Fahrenheit and kicks back in when the internal temperature drops to 20 degrees Fahrenheit.
$29.95
Special Order
Door Shelf End Cap - Right Side
Part #3206150
This white end cap is a little over two inches long. It is used for the right side of either the refrigerator of the freezer door shelf.
No Longer Available
Door Shelf End Cap - Left Side
Part #5303324302
This is the door shelf end cap for your refrigerator. It connects to the refrigerator door and keeps the door bar in place. Your refrigerator will have two shelf end caps, one for the right side and one for the left. This part is the left side door shelf end cap. It is made of white plastic and is a little over two inches long. This is an OEM part from the manufacturer and is sold individually.
$72.47
In Stock
Door Shelf Retainer Bar - Cut to Fit
Part #215366002
This is a white cut-to-fit door shelf retainer bar.
$182.64
In Stock
Evaporator Fan Motor Kit
Part #5300158289
This motor runs the evaporator fan in your refrigerator. It is mounted on the center hub and has three lead wires terminals. This motor rotates in a clockwise fashion. Its shaft has a diameter of 1/8" and is 1-1/4" long.
$67.04
In Stock
$36.95
Special Order
Light Socket
Part #218906802
The light socket on your refrigerator houses the light bulb and connects it to the power source. If you notice that your refrigerator light does not come on when you open the door, you may need to replace the light socket. This light socket is made of white plastic with two metal prongs. The light socket is located inside the refrigerator...Read more. Many of our customers have rated this repair as easy. To complete this repair, simply pop the old socket out with a small flat blade screwdriver and disconnect the wires. Then simply reconnect the wires to the new socket, and snap it in place with the locking tab.
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$39.26
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$29.95
In Stock
$16.27
In Stock
Common Symptoms of the 95-1982-00-00
How this model fails, and the parts that fix it.
Fridge too warm
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Freezer not defrosting
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Noisy
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Freezer section too warm
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Light not working
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Fridge runs too long
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Will Not Start
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Leaking
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Fridge and Freezer are too warm
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Fridge too cold
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Freezer too cold
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Frost buildup
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Too warm
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Door Sweating
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Won’t start
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Door won’t open or close
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Watch our pros, then fix it yourself.
See how others fixed this model. Time, tools, difficulty, and steps that lead to victory!
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Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!
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Fridge got warm and freezer coils were frosted
340 of 407 people
found this instruction helpful.
Fridge is a side by side. The freezer is pretty narrow for a guy with wide shoulders.
Pulled plug.
Had to remove bottom drawers then used nut driver to remove screws closest to back wall in drawer runners. Once the back screws were removed the runners could be swung up or down out of way so back cover could be re ... Read more moved.
Once back cover was removed thermostat was located attached to top pipe going into coil using a spring clamp.
Cut the wires just outside the crimp connectors going into thermostat. Released the spring clamp buy squeezing botton together.
Removed old badly corroded thermostat.
I wish I had attached the crimp connectors to the new thermostat wires before mounting it. Reaching way in the back, while turning shoulders verticly and trying to get the wire connectors set from both sides was awkward and uncomfortable...The biggest PIA of the whole task.
Once connected I let the fridge (thermostat) cool for 10 min. Turned the dial defrost timer to get it into defrost mode. Stupidly touched the heating element to see if it was getting warm...it was very hot.
Coils steamed...every looked like it was working. Unplugged, put back cover back on and retattached drawer mounts.
Plugged back in and everying is working great!
Pulled plug.
Had to remove bottom drawers then used nut driver to remove screws closest to back wall in drawer runners. Once the back screws were removed the runners could be swung up or down out of way so back cover could be re ... Read more moved.
Once back cover was removed thermostat was located attached to top pipe going into coil using a spring clamp.
Cut the wires just outside the crimp connectors going into thermostat. Released the spring clamp buy squeezing botton together.
Removed old badly corroded thermostat.
I wish I had attached the crimp connectors to the new thermostat wires before mounting it. Reaching way in the back, while turning shoulders verticly and trying to get the wire connectors set from both sides was awkward and uncomfortable...The biggest PIA of the whole task.
Once connected I let the fridge (thermostat) cool for 10 min. Turned the dial defrost timer to get it into defrost mode. Stupidly touched the heating element to see if it was getting warm...it was very hot.
Coils steamed...every looked like it was working. Unplugged, put back cover back on and retattached drawer mounts.
Plugged back in and everying is working great!
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Noisy fan
153 of 180 people
found this instruction helpful.
1. Removed the 7 nuts using the nut driver from the freezer back panel inside the freezer.
2. Remove the back panel. The evaporator motor and fan are located above the coils.
3. Unplug the wiring harness.
4. Remove the two gold mounting screws holding the motor and fan in place.
5. Remove the motor and fan including th ... Read more e brackets.
6. Install the new motor and fan onto the mounting bracket.
6a. Attach the green ground to the mounting bracket.
7. Screw the two gold screws back into the freezer.
8. Attach the new wiring harness. Note, the old harness had a mounting hole/space for it to connect to the wiring harness of the freezer. The new motor's harness was not long enough for this, so it is connected freely to the freezer harness.
9. Use the hair dryer to melt any ice that may have formed on the coils and hole where the fan goes.
10. Turn the freezer on to see if the fan turns on.
11. Reinstall the back panel.
All done!
2. Remove the back panel. The evaporator motor and fan are located above the coils.
3. Unplug the wiring harness.
4. Remove the two gold mounting screws holding the motor and fan in place.
5. Remove the motor and fan including th ... Read more e brackets.
6. Install the new motor and fan onto the mounting bracket.
6a. Attach the green ground to the mounting bracket.
7. Screw the two gold screws back into the freezer.
8. Attach the new wiring harness. Note, the old harness had a mounting hole/space for it to connect to the wiring harness of the freezer. The new motor's harness was not long enough for this, so it is connected freely to the freezer harness.
9. Use the hair dryer to melt any ice that may have formed on the coils and hole where the fan goes.
10. Turn the freezer on to see if the fan turns on.
11. Reinstall the back panel.
All done!
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