7MMVWB855EC2 Maytag Washer - Instructions

slipped the new drain hose on and with locking plyers slipped the wire clap in place after three trys

Removed two screws on back of lid to raise top removed tub one bolt and one spanernut pulled tub lowered top reinstalled screws laid washer down to get to bottom of washer unplugged wiring removed four bolts pulled gear box and motor removed motor from gear box installed motor on new gear box reassemble washer

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

The valve is a 4 solenoid valve, which has Temp. sensor molded into the valve body mixer center outlet. No mention of it in the troubleshooting. it has a 2 pin plug. it was shorted zero ohms.
New one measure open infinity. I also purchased the control module as the troubleshooting said to if solenoid checked good which all 4 read 1310 ohms , i purchased and replaced control module, no help. the guide is outdated for these new high tech washers. If this happens again. I will just unplug the 2 pin plug on bottom of valve assembly. By the way the 2 clips that hold the washer top in place are very difficult to remove and re install.

I tilted the washer to access the underside and gently attached the vice grips to keep the drive shaft from turning. I then used my socket set to remove the bolt holding the wash plate in place. I then removed the old wash plate and removed the vice grips before installing the new wash plate. Since the new wash plate engages the shaft (not stripped) I no longer needed the vice grips; it was sufficient to just hold the wash plate with one hand while tightening.

If you take the back off the machine, it's a lot easier to detach the control bridge. Saved a lot of time and did not need to stretch your fingers

DIY'er working on a Maytag Centennial type washing machine should be aware that replacing a a transmission or agitator due to worn out splines is only half a job done well. I originally replaced my transmission due to worn splines, only to discover later that the worn agitator splines caused the new transmission splines to wear out at an accelerated rate. Transmission and Agitator should be replaced together, along with a new Agitator mounting bolt. There are plenty of video's online of how to do this repair so I won't get into that here. Just wanted to drop the above sage advice. Transmissions for these washers aren't cheap.

Washer would start cycle and return a CL error. No water would flow into the tub. Researched problem and probable cause. Ordered new water inlet valve. Once received, disconnected water hoses and electric plug and removed rear upper access panel (5 screws). Used thin putty knife under sides of front control panel to disengage spring clips. Once access to the faulty valve was attained, removed electrical harness and valve mounting screws. Installation of new valve was reverse process. Figuring out how to raise the front panel for access to the valve was most difficult. Found a YouTube video showing how; it was easy from there. Entire replacement took about 30 mins max.

Although I thought it was the electronic control panel it ended up being the front control panel with the dial and buttons. Apparently this part has the timer in it.
An easy swap just copy what is there. Remove the screws from the back of the control panel area. You need a putty knife about 3/4 inch wide to slide under the top control area on either side to release the spring clips, give the knife a little tap in and shake the top loose. If you look from the back you can see the spring clips.

Ordered the parts and followed You Tube DYI clip. This 3YOMaytag top loading washer has had a motherboard replaced and now this. It all works fine for now, I cannot imagine what the appliance tech would have charged. Maytag is not what it used to be.

Popped the cap , used a socket to unscrew the bolt (it was stripped so ended up having to cut off bolt) Took off old impellar and replaced, installed a new bolt, replaced Cap and it was fixed.

after watching a video i ordered the part. removed the old part and installed the new wash plate using a socket and ratchet.
now washer works like new

It was really easy after watching the videio. I removed a single screw and took the agitator out, You could see how worn the center of the part was. The part that it went onto had a lot of rust built up on it, I used naval jelly and a wire brush to clean it. then put the new agitator on. It has been working well ever since. What's crazy is two repair men told me to
throw out the washer because the repair would be equivalent to buying a new one! NOT TRUE ---- Total cost $115.00. Received it really quickly. Thanks so much!

Replaced each hose. Did discover that either hose can be used for hot or cold water lines. No longer required to label hot and cold replacement hoses.

At first I had to position the washer so I could get access.. after having it positioned, I figured it out. Getting the clamp fastened, I was done.