7MMVWB835EW0 Maytag Washer - Instructions

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

Raised lid to remove two Torx head screws from each hinge. Lid will then lift off of hinges. Installation of new lid was the reverse of the removal procedure. It is best to install one hinge to the lid by removing that hinge from the washer. The lid can then be installed by inserting that hinge into it's spot and then over the other hinge. Install the hinge screws into the second hinge and the job is complete. The lid now closes properly allowing the automatic lid lock to function properly.

Removed the old lid by removing the two screws on both sides of the lid holding it to the hinge. Then pull upon the lid to remove. Slide the new lid back on the hinges being careful to slide in the right slot in the lid. Replace the screws through the lid into the hinges and your done

slipped the new drain hose on and with locking plyers slipped the wire clap in place after three trys

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

Removed two screws on back of lid to raise top removed tub one bolt and one spanernut pulled tub lowered top reinstalled screws laid washer down to get to bottom of washer unplugged wiring removed four bolts pulled gear box and motor removed motor from gear box installed motor on new gear box reassemble washer

The valve is a 4 solenoid valve, which has Temp. sensor molded into the valve body mixer center outlet. No mention of it in the troubleshooting. it has a 2 pin plug. it was shorted zero ohms.
New one measure open infinity. I also purchased the control module as the troubleshooting said to if solenoid checked good which all 4 read 1310 ohms , i purchased and replaced control module, no help. the guide is outdated for these new high tech washers. If this happens again. I will just unplug the 2 pin plug on bottom of valve assembly. By the way the 2 clips that hold the washer top in place are very difficult to remove and re install.

I tilted the washer to access the underside and gently attached the vice grips to keep the drive shaft from turning. I then used my socket set to remove the bolt holding the wash plate in place. I then removed the old wash plate and removed the vice grips before installing the new wash plate. Since the new wash plate engages the shaft (not stripped) I no longer needed the vice grips; it was sufficient to just hold the wash plate with one hand while tightening.

If you take the back off the machine, it's a lot easier to detach the control bridge. Saved a lot of time and did not need to stretch your fingers

I removed the 2 hose clamps connecting to the pump, removed 3 screws holding pump in place, and disconnected 2 wires plugged into pump. Put the new pump on in reverse order.

DIY'er working on a Maytag Centennial type washing machine should be aware that replacing a a transmission or agitator due to worn out splines is only half a job done well. I originally replaced my transmission due to worn splines, only to discover later that the worn agitator splines caused the new transmission splines to wear out at an accelerated rate. Transmission and Agitator should be replaced together, along with a new Agitator mounting bolt. There are plenty of video's online of how to do this repair so I won't get into that here. Just wanted to drop the above sage advice. Transmissions for these washers aren't cheap.

Washer would start cycle and return a CL error. No water would flow into the tub. Researched problem and probable cause. Ordered new water inlet valve. Once received, disconnected water hoses and electric plug and removed rear upper access panel (5 screws). Used thin putty knife under sides of front control panel to disengage spring clips. Once access to the faulty valve was attained, removed electrical harness and valve mounting screws. Installation of new valve was reverse process. Figuring out how to raise the front panel for access to the valve was most difficult. Found a YouTube video showing how; it was easy from there. Entire replacement took about 30 mins max.

UNPLUG WASHER FROM WALL PLUG
Watch u tube on how to remove top and also cover on top circuit compartment
First find the service book taped inside front. PLUGand read to read codes
call up the error codes flashing
the code indicated a defective lid latch.UNPUG WASHER
went through testing the switch one of the contacts was defective and intermittent.
UNPUG WASHER unpug J connect from circuit board remove wiring and connect from lid
new wiring harness goes back same as old one and mount new lid switch. done

My husband watched numerous YouTube videos before tackling it.

Used some essential oils in laundry to help with odor. (Doesn't work, don't bother. Just get better soap.) Oils caused damage to center dispenser tray. Bought replacement tray. Simply pull the old one out by pushing down on the tabs on each end, slide the new one in place. Maybe took 30 seconds. Price? Far too expensive for a plastic drawer, but what do you do?