This Idler Pulley includes the tri-ring and gasket and everything included here is manufacturer-certified. This part maintains correct tension on the drive belt in order to spin the drum properly. If ...
$34.36
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This drum support roller is sold individually. Most dryers require two. The tri-rings are included. This is a drum support roller for a dryer. It is a genuine replacement part. The part includes the d...
$28.93
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This thermostat may differ in appearance, but functions the same as the original part. This part controls the temperature of the inside of the dryer drum and prevents the dryer from overheating.
$60.87
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If you notice that your dryer is noisy or will not tumble, you may need to replace the tri ring. This part is triangular, and is less than an inch in size. Tri rings can be found both on the idler pul...
$17.11
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The idler pulley wheel is now sold with this arm. This idler pulley is for dryers.
Idler pulley maintains correct tension on the drive belt to spin the drum.
$34.16
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This is the moisture sensor for your dryer. It helps detect the amount of moisture in your clothes during the dryer cycle. If you notice your clothes are still wet after an automatic dryer cycle is do...
$13.67
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This 18 ml bottle of white appliance touch-up paint is used to cover scratches or marks on your appliance. The white touch-up paint can be used on refrigerators, microwaves, ranges, clothes dryers, an...
$10.20
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Pryed dryer top open and opened front door. . Unscrewed the 2 retaining screws. Pulled old switch from the wiring harness. Put new switch in place and replaced the retaining screws. Put new switch wire plug into the wiring harness. Before closing top, checked door switch function with dryer on. Dryer cut off when door open and when closed dryer started normally. . . Maint. Note instruction book should warn that letting door slam, which I did on occaision, broke the switch arm. Might save future problems.
It was simple once I figured out what to do:). I removed the 2 screws on the top of the dryer... they were a bit hard to find. Even with the other descriptions on this site. I was removing things I didn't need to. The 2 screws you need to remove are under the LINT COLLECTOR LID. Remove those 2 screws & lift the lid... it will be tight at first. the front of the lid has 2 "catches" in the corners.
The hardest part was getting the door switch assembly to "unplug". We pried it off -- eventually -- & then simply plugged in the new one.
Saved me LOTS of money & was worth the 30 minutes - 1 hour of work.
As I said previously, once you realize how to get the lid up & manage to pry off the plug, that's all there is to it -- easy!
