This drum support roller is sold individually. Most dryers require two. The tri-rings are included. This is a drum support roller for a dryer. It is a genuine replacement part. The part includes the d...
This gas dryer ignition coil set comes with two ignition coils: one three-terminal boost/hold coil, and one two terminal secondary coil. Usually only one of them burns out but you should replace them ...
If you notice that your dryer is noisy or will not tumble, you may need to replace the tri ring. This part is triangular, and is less than an inch in size. Tri rings can be found both on the idler pul...
This 18 ml bottle of white appliance touch-up paint is used to cover scratches or marks on your appliance. The white touch-up paint can be used on refrigerators, microwaves, ranges, clothes dryers, an...
The blower wheel is a squirrel cage type wheel whose purpose is to move the air through the room or appliance. The blower wheel spins on the motor shaft to blow air through the dryer drum and out through the exhaust.
$46.71
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First I unplugged the dryer, then removed the back panel, this exposed most all of the wiring and I could see the heater coils. Not knowing what the problem was I started looking at the coils and could not see any broken parts. So then checked the thermal fuse for continuity I removed the two wires from it with a small pair of needle nose pliers, it was held in place by two screws, once they were removed the fuse came out easily, I checked continuity with a volt meter placing the meter on X1 Ohms and could not get a reading. I replaced with a new one and put it all back together the way I took it apart. Then I plugged it in and it worked first time, I now have warm dry clothes.
Cleaning the lint out of the whole machine took quite a bit of time--it was everywhere. Underneath the lint trap was a collection that ultimately ruined the thermal fuse where it restricted the air flow considerably.
Ascertaining the problem was the most time consuming part.
The actual repair was quite simple and didn't take but 15-20 minutes.
First removed front and drum to check gas valve and igniter. No gas, no ignition. Checked power to devices; none (check hot line to ground, not to neutral.). Removed back of control panel looking for a relay or something. Found none, but did find a wiring diagram. That is where the site really came in handy. Studied wiring diagram together with the exploded view and pictures of each part to come up with a troubleshooting plan. Took the back off as well as a cover inside. Tested each part with meter, again going to ground and not across the device. Of course, the final device before the gas valve, a one time thermal fuse, was the bad part. At first assumed just a bad part. Later wondered if fuse did it's job and another part was bad. Ordered and installed new thermostat just in case. Put everything together after a complete cleaning and everything is fine so far. Not a particularly hard job because I had the wiring diagram and access to parts select site. Would have been much harder without them. Took a long time because almost the entire dryer had to come apart. But it got a good cleaning because of it and found a couple of bucks in change to help offset the cost. Can't imagine what a service call would have cost.
