66575776891 Kenmore Range - Overview

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Touch-Up Paint - White – Part Number: 72017
No Longer Available
Touch-Up Paint - White
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(23)
Part #72017
This 18 ml bottle of white appliance touch-up paint is used to cover scratches or marks on your appliance. The white touch-up paint can be used on refrigerators, microwaves, ranges, clothes dryers, and freezers. This is a genuine OEM part and includes a brush applicator. Please remember to wear gloves to protect your hands when applying this paint.
Screw – Part Number: W11233072
$30.40
In Stock
Screw
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(5)
Part #W11233072
This is a multi-use and multi-appliance screw. It can be used on a microwave, refrigerator, range/oven, air conditioner, dehumidifier, washer, or dryer. The measurements of this screw are 8 x 1/2 inch. It has 6 threads. Refer to the manual provided by the manufacturer for further information on repair and accurate guidance. Remember to wear work gloves as a safety precaution.
Range Insulation – Part Number: WPW10208653
$69.24
In Stock
Range Insulation
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(9)
Part #WPW10208653
Oven Wrap Insulation.
SOCKT-LITE – Part Number: W11594027
$97.21
In Stock
SOCKT-LITE
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(15)
Part #W11594027
The light socket on your electric range connects the power source to the light bulb. If your oven light is malfunctioning, you may need to replace the light socket. The light socket is located in the back of your range, so in order to access it you will need to remove the back panel. Many of our customers have rated this repair as easy, and it should take less than 15 minutes. Before you begin this repair, make sure to disconnect the power source from your range. This is an OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer.
Range Rear Drawer Glide – Part Number: WP8053334
$15.43
In Stock
Range Rear Drawer Glide
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(3)
Part #WP8053334
Sold Individually. As the broiler drawer slides back and forth, these glides prevent metal-to-metal contact.
Range Rear Leveling Leg – Part Number: WPW10058460
$15.35
In Stock
Range Inner Oven Door Glass – Part Number: WP8053948
$190.71
In Stock
Range Inner Oven Door Glass
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Part #WP8053948
This is the innermost piece of glass on your door.
Range Screw – Part Number: WP179051
$10.95
In Stock
Range Screw
Part #WP179051
Sold individually. Lock washers are used with screws when vibration from an appliance may cause the screw to loosen. Lock washers are also used in the electrical components of an appliance to ensure an electrical connection is not lost.
Front Foot – Part Number: WP3196037
$58.85
Special Order
Front Foot
Part #WP3196037
This adjustable front leveling foot is sold individually.
Range Front Drawer Glide – Part Number: WP3195546
$15.36
In Stock
Range Front Drawer Glide
Part #WP3195546
Sold individually.
Screw – Part Number: W10491985
$9.85
In Stock
Screw
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(1)
Part #W10491985
Sold individually.
Range Exterior Door Glass – Part Number: WPW10118455
$408.28
In Stock
Range Exterior Door Glass
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(2)
Part #WPW10118455
Replace your oven’s outer door glass with this durable black panel, designed to help keep heat inside while giving you a clear view of your food as it cooks. It’s made from heat-resistant tempered glass and fits the outermost section of the oven door. If your current panel is cracked or broken, this replacement can help restore your oven’s performance and appearance. Be sure to check your model for compatibility.

Manuals & Care Guides for 66575776891

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Common Symptoms of the 66575776891

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mice had made nests in the insulation wrap in the range
129 of 211 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Wendy from Red Hook, NY
  • Easy
  • More than 2 hours
  • Screw drivers
I numbered every part. ex: 1 L., for first part removed left side. I used a magic marker to circle the holes and wrote the number of screws used on the part, set the srews in a separete place, so that I new where these screws went to. The cleanup was pretty time consuming, but I was able to keep my stove, when every repairman I called to fix my stove told me I was better off buying a new stove. ($600.00 stove 2 years old)Please Note: The insulation blanket needed for the entire stove is two pieces, the sides and top are one part # and the bottom and back, are another part #. I did not know this. I just purchased the top and sides. I got lucky, the back and bottom were still in good shape. So I guess I should have read the description of the part more carefully to see what it covers, before I ordered it. It took two people two hours to do the work, it was really nice to have an extra set of eyes, to remember what direction pieces of metal from the stove went. I would do it all over in a heart beat instead of buying a new stove.
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The lower burner would not ignite.
80 of 87 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Mark from Rego Park, NY
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
First I removed the oven racks. Then I loosened the two screws in the back of the oven floor and figured out how to remove it. Then I loosened the two screws at the front of the diverter and, with some pushing and pulling and twisting, was able to get that to come out, too. Then I tried lighting the oven and noticed that the igniter wa s not glowing. When I saw that the upper (broiler) burner was working fine, I hoped that the problem was the lower igniter itself. I checked the wires and they seemed fine. I saw that two bolts held the igniter onto its bracket, so with a socket wrench (which size I got right on the first guess!) I removed those bolts and the igniter came loose. I found the connecter for the wires when I removed the drawer under the oven and was able to pull it apart easily. The igniter came out completely. There was nothing unusual about it, but I decided to take a chance and order a new one, hoping that replacing it would solve the problem. I put the rest of the oven together and waited. About three days later the part arrived (it was sent on a holiday; FedEx is soooo much better than USPS). I retraced the steps of taking the oven apart, put the two bolts into the new igniter to attach it to the bracket, and went back underneath behind the drawer to connect the wires. Then came the moment of truth: I tried turing on the oven. I held the button down to keep the light off, and after a few seconds I saw it: IT GLOWED!! It worked!! After yelling a satisfying "YEAH!!," I turned it off, put back the drawer, the diverter (more pulling and pushing and twisting), and the oven floor. Now it's all working perfectly and it took a very short time to fix. And a little luck that the problem was with such a simple part.
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Front burner would not light. The igniter was cracked and the spark would not jump to the burner head.
51 of 51 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Marilyn from Antioch, IL
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
I pulled the range from the wall and disconnected the power cord. I removed the grates, burner caps and the burners from the cooktop. Using a plastic putty knife, on either side of the range in the front I pushed the retaining clips to allow the cooktop to be raised. I used a short board to keep the cooktop open. I cut the wire leading to the broken igniter and removed the old igniter. I put the new ignitor in the mounting hole. The igniter wire connects to the spark module which is in the back of the range. To access the module I removed three top screws on the backplate(you have to get behind the range) and removed the top access panel. I used the old wire to pull the new wire through to the module. I disconnected the old wire from the module and connected the new one.

Reassembly was easy. I replaced the backplate and screws, lowered the cooktop, replaced the burners, caps and grates. I plugged the power cord back in and slid the range back.
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