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6654428450 Kenmore Wall Oven - Instructions

All Instructions for the 6654428450
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lower back element stopped working
I got the model number and ordered a replacement element from partselect, was shipped quickly and I installed it in about 30 minutes, it now works great
Parts Used:
Bake Element - 2600W 240V
  • Bradley from Lexington, OK
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
469 of 559 people found this instruction helpful.
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Oven stopped heating.....
Removed the oven racks....

Removed the two screws holding element in place...

Disconnected spade lug connectors from old heating element.

Connected spade lug connectors to new heating element.

Reinstalled screws.....replaced oven racks....mission acomplished!
Parts Used:
Bake Element - 2600W 240V
  • Richard from Pattonsburg, MO
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
243 of 400 people found this instruction helpful.
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The bake element stopped working.
First I cut off the power to the stove and double-checked to make sure no current was flowing to the unit. There were two screws attaching the bake element plate to the oven. I unscrewed the two screws and carefully pulled the bake element away from the oven exposing the contact wires. I carefully loosened the wire contacts from the bake element, slid the bake element off the contacts and then slid the new bake element onto the wire contacts. I gently clamped the contacts onto the bake element, pushed the wires back into the back of the oven and screwed back the bake element plate onto the interior of the oven. I turned on the power to test my work and I was done.
Parts Used:
Bake Element - 2600W 240V
  • Harry from Charlotte, NC
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
216 of 361 people found this instruction helpful.
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Uneven heating, red spot on element
First, I removed the two screws that held the old element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires This was challenging; the element uses blade connectors that are difficult to grab, and I didn't want to damage the connectors with pliers. Strenuous wiggling eventually worked. After that, I just reconnected the blade connectors to the new element, pushed the wires back in, and tightened the two screws.

It was fortunate that I saw a red spot on the element. When I removed it, I noticed a hole had been eaten part way through the old element. I was probably weeks away from a fire.
Parts Used:
Bake Element - 2600W 240V
  • Tim from Tigard, OR
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
101 of 165 people found this instruction helpful.
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Bake Element Burned Out
Replacement was relatively easy. Oven door was pulled off hinges after removing 2 mounting screws nearest the hinges. After shutting off power at the breaker, screws (2 each) holding elements were removed. Elements were pulled into oven ~ 4 inches exposing wiring and clips. The clips pulled free with just a little wiggling by hand and were easily pushed back on by hand. Then reverse to finish.
Parts Used:
Broil Element - 240V Bake Element - 2600W 240V
  • Robert from Baton Rouge, LA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
45 of 48 people found this instruction helpful.
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Socket Light had a bad thread
Socket Lite come with clips attached to the outside
of the housing. After you unhook the 3 lead wires
that are attached to the unit. All you have to do is push in on the clips and release the unit. Then you
snap in the new unit. Attach the 3 wire leads, put a
oven bulb in the socket end, and the install the light cover
Parts Used:
SOCKT-LITE
  • Edmund from Emporium, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
44 of 60 people found this instruction helpful.
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Inside brass liner in socket came out when bulb was removed. Apparently had welded itself to the base of the bulb
Removed oven from wall unit and took the back off. Removed the old socket assembly by depressing the ears and forcing unit into the oven. The electrical wires were easily removed since they are spade connections and slip off. They also are different sizes so that there is no chance of erroneously putting them back in an incorrect order. The new unit simply slips in from the front and snaps into place. The most difficult part of the entire process is removing the old unit. A little "friendly persuasion" is required to get the old unit out.
Parts Used:
SOCKT-LITE
  • Lewis from Chapin, SC
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
21 of 25 people found this instruction helpful.
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Burnt out broiler element
Turned off power to range because I was scared. Unscrewed broiler element, pulled part forward and pulled off wires that were attached to the back, attached wires to new element, pushed it back in place, screwed it back on to oven. Cooked my bruchette!
Parts Used:
Broil Element - 240V
  • Starla from Vashon, WA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
19 of 20 people found this instruction helpful.
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Oven light not working
I turned off the breaker (I'm a little nervous even unplugging a 220 plug). I first removed the cover from the back of the stove to get to the wiring/socket. Removed the two wires from the leads - they just pull off by hand but use a needlenose pilers if it is stuck. One is larger so no need to try to remember which one goes where. I removed the glass cover and bulb from inside the oven. I read another post on this site that said there were clips that you had to press to get the old socket out which helped. That part was a little tricky as the insulation around the socket makes it hard to see and the opening is really tight. I finally found the clips and pressed one then got that side out enough to hold the clip back then pressed the other clip and I was able to push it right out. I did not have the strength to press both clips with enough pressure but if you do, that would probably be easier. From inside the oven, I pushed the new socket through the hole - there was a little notch in the opening that had to match up with the socket. I had to push pretty firmly until I felt both clips snap in place. Replaced the wires, turned on the power, screwed in the bulb and cover and I had light!
Parts Used:
SOCKT-LITE
  • Carol from Allison Park, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
18 of 25 people found this instruction helpful.
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Fiber Gasket around Pyrex Light Lens was mis-shaped
All I had to do was unscrew the pyrex lens over the oven light and then remove the old gasket and replace it with the new one. Worked like a champ!
Parts Used:
Light Gasket
  • David from Westminster, CO
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
12 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
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Purchased home but stove had no broiler pan.
Purchased 2 piece broiler pan from this site
Parts Used:
2 Piece Broiler Pan
  • Raymond from BLOOMINGTON, MN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
14 of 20 people found this instruction helpful.
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Both heating elements would not work.
After shutting off the power, I removed the door and oven racks. Then, by using a screwdriver, I removed each element one at a time and replaced with the new element. Each element pulled away from the back wall and was connected electrically by Sta-Kon connectors. All went well, and the unit was operational in about 30 minutes. I still have to remove the oven from the wall to replaced the two door springs.
Parts Used:
Broil Element - 240V Bake Element - 2600W 240V
  • Lee from Austin, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
9 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
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Oven light would not work--faulty socket
After removing the back of the stove, the old light socket was fairly easy to remove. The new socket slipped in place and the wires reattached and now the oven has a light again. A very simple process--especially for someone who's not an expert in repairing appliances.
Parts Used:
SOCKT-LITE
  • Delores from Warren, MN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
10 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
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Baking Element burned out.
Turn Off Breaker.

Removed oven racks....

Removed two screws holding element in place...

Disconnect spade lug connectors from old heating element.

Connected spade lug connectors to new heating element.

Reinstall 2 screws holding element.....

Replace oven racks.

Turn Breakers back On.

Done 10 Min. Install
Parts Used:
Bake Element - 2600W 240V
  • Rick from Pineville, MO
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
9 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
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both upper oven door springs broke. Door would not stay closed except with "self-cleaning latch in place"
I HAVE NOT FOUND ANY GOOD DESCRIPTION OF HOW TO REPLACE DOOR SPRINGS ON A BUILT-IN DOUBEL OVEN ANYWHERE ON THE INTERNET. I HOPE THIS WILL BE OF HELP TO SOMEONE.

I correctly assumed it was the springs that broke. With the springs in hand I shut off the power at the breaker box. I removed both oven doors. The upper oven door required the removal of one screw for each hinge. Then with the door slightly open, wiggle and pull upward and the door detached from the hinge. The lower oven door is removed by just wiggling and lifting with the door slightly open. I then removed 8 screws that fasten the oven to the cabinet. I removed 3 screws that hold the bottom vent cover in place and wiggling and pulling downward the vent cover detached. The bottom of the oven was 11 inches above the floor. I placed two sturdy objects about 10 inches tall in front of the oven and lifting, wiggling, and pulling the oven moved forward. I pulled it out about 2/3 of its depth.

The sheetmetal sides of the oven are indented and the spring attachments are easily accessible. ONE TROUBLE SPOT. The back end of the spring attaches to the cabinet but there is a small metal piece called an "anchor" that attaches to the front of the spring and then to the hinge. When the spring breaks the anchor goes flying. I was able to retrieve one of the anchors but the other one fell down between the insulation and the side of the cabinet and I was not able to retrieve it with out pulling the side loose. I was afraid I would run into other issues if I did that. So my oven is sitting in the kitchen while I wait 3 days for a replacement anchor.

The anchor is about $7 and the 2-3 day shipping is $10 so you might do well to just order one along with the spring.

I ordered a pair of lower door springs at the same time. About $10 each. Worth it to me not to repeat this process in the near future.

Once the oven is pulled out, the springs are very easy to install. I did all three I could do in about 10 minutes max.

MY BIGGEST PROBLEM was deciding how to get at the springs. All diagrams in the installation manual showed solid metal sides on the oven. They did not show that the springs we easily accessible outside the oven case. I was pleasantly surprised to see the indentations as I started to slide the oven out of the cabinet!

With the springs installed, I will just push the oven back into the cabinet, install the 8 screws, replace the lower vent cover and install the doors. Turn on the breaker and receive the applause of my wife for my marvelous ability!
Parts Used:
Oven Door Spring SPRNG-DOOR
  • David from GALT, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
9 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
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All Instructions for the 6654428450
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