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6002A (REV A) Norge Washer - Overview
Diagrams for 6002A
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$24.17
In Stock
Drive Belt - 51 inches long
Part #WP21352320
This V-style drive belt is about 51" long and 3/8" wide. This part is made to slip on the motor pulley to bring the basket up to the speed required and this makes the belt encounter wear and tear.
$18.31
In Stock
$29.56
In Stock
Lid Hinge Pin
Part #WP35-2045
This lid hinge pin is just over an inch long. It is all white in color and is made entirely of plastic. Sold individually.
$73.65
In Stock
Transmission Pulley and Bearing Kit
Part #12002213
Also known as Thrust Bearing Kit. This kit includes the pulley, washer, thrust bearing, 2 upper race washers and 1 lower race washer. These parts are NOT available separately - they are ONLY available in this kit.
A worn bearing causes slow or no spin.
$159.64
In Stock
Drain Pump with Pulley
Part #WP35-6465
This pump has 2 ports. This pump helps expel water from the washing machine and is activated after the spin speed is maintained for a specific period of time.
$10.95
In Stock
$11.52
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Washer Hose Clamp
Part #WP596669
This hose clamp extends from half an inch to an inch in diameter. It is made entirely of metal and is intended for use with Maytag brand washing machines.
$17.55
In Stock
$15.68
In Stock
$45.28
In Stock
$10.40
In Stock
$11.80
In Stock
Screw
Part #WP25-7893
This screw is less than an inch long. It is a metallic screw that is used for many clothes washers. Sold individually.
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Common Symptoms of the 6002A
How this model fails, and the parts that fix it.
Leaking
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Burning smell
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Will not drain
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Spins slowly
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Will not agitate
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Lid or door won’t close
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Will Not Start
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Spinning Issues
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Shaking and Moving
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No hot or cold water
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Door latch failure
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Noisy
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Draining Issues
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The unit was leaking during agitation and spin cycle
58 of 62 people
found this instruction helpful.
I had to remove the back lower panel with a nut driver (approximately 8 screws) as well as the front panel which is removed by poping the top of the unit removing 2 screws and swinging the panel down and lifting off.
Remove the bleach fill cap (pry off). You'll need a long extension on your ratchet to remove the bolt holding on the ... Read more agitator. Next remove the inner tub which is held on by 4 bolts. The outer tub is a bit more difficult. You will need to remove all 4 shoulder screws from the top as well as the six that anchor it to the spring assembly around the bottom skirt. Since it was 7 years old I had to muscle the outer tub and rotate it to get around the inner tub transmission flange.
I'm not sure which of the 3 parts were leaking so I ordered and replaced all 3.
I don't know if it was necessary but I scraped and cleaned the aluminum flange plates where the gaskets seated.
At this point it was easy to replace the tub to housing gasket and tub/housing seal.
During reassembly I also replaced the basket to centerpost gasket.
I went with standard delivery but got the parts the next day.
Remove the bleach fill cap (pry off). You'll need a long extension on your ratchet to remove the bolt holding on the ... Read more agitator. Next remove the inner tub which is held on by 4 bolts. The outer tub is a bit more difficult. You will need to remove all 4 shoulder screws from the top as well as the six that anchor it to the spring assembly around the bottom skirt. Since it was 7 years old I had to muscle the outer tub and rotate it to get around the inner tub transmission flange.
I'm not sure which of the 3 parts were leaking so I ordered and replaced all 3.
I don't know if it was necessary but I scraped and cleaned the aluminum flange plates where the gaskets seated.
At this point it was easy to replace the tub to housing gasket and tub/housing seal.
During reassembly I also replaced the basket to centerpost gasket.
I went with standard delivery but got the parts the next day.
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