This manufacturer-approved Refrigerator Pantry End Cap Kit, also known as the Refrigerator Drawer Support, is a kit containing all parts of the Pantry End Cap. It snaps into place on the appliance’s ...
This an authentic OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb, used in a number of household appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, which is why these replacement bulbs are mos...
NOTE: This replacement ice maker mechanism does NOT come with a cover, shut off arm, a wire harness, or the mounting hardware. Those must be ordered separately, or you can use the existing parts.
This board will need to be programmed upon installation. The electronic control board is used in refrigerators to monitor and manage the temperature settings, such as cooling or defrosting times. If y...
This includes both the run capacitor and the start relay. The capacitor helps the compressor kick on and off while maintaining a constant temperature to keep things frozen in your freezer.
The start ...
This door bin is for refrigerators.
The door bin attaches to the inside of the refrigerator door and typically holds jars and bottles.
Follow the instructions in the owner's manual for installin...
Glass NOT included. If you are looking for the center rail see related parts below. This is used for the crisper drawer in the refrigerators
$238.86
In Stock
Questions And Answers for 59675503400
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Jerry
February 14, 2023
All of my led lights are dim they all went dim at the same time. What do I do to fix it?
For model number 59675503400
Hi Jerry,
Thank you for your question. We do not show any LED lights listed for your refrigerator. Your refrigerator uses 40 watt light bulbs. If the lights are dim, the issue may be with oxidation in the light sockets. You should check the sockets and the wiring connected to them. We hope this helps!
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Interior surface of ice tray felt rough & flaky (coating deteriorated) so cubes would not release. Unplug appliance. Remove timer cover by hand pressure @ edge. Remove single attachment screw & bracket at lower front of icemaker. Disconnect wiring harness from socket @ rear of compartment. Tricky part was determining what type of connection held the other two attachment points along the long edge of the icemaker. I did not have repair manual or useful drawing but looked @ PartsDirect pic of side brackets & used a small mirror to confirm that mine were also some sort of "snap in" attachment. Remove icemaker unit by pushing upward and outward on the unit. I takes a good bit of pressure and will pop loose, but be careful not to break attachment bracket from freezer wall. Scavenge shut off bar and wiring harness from old icemaker once you have it out & attach to new one before installing it back in freezer. Again, you might find a mirror useful to align those pesky snap-in brackets with the new unit. Since you probably kept your freezer running while waiting for the part, the plastic snap-ins will be cold and brittle. I warmed them up first by applying a dampened cloth heated in the microwave to make them a little more pliable. A good push of the new unit towards the snap-ins along with some upward force will get it stable. Reattach the metal screw in bracket & connect the wiring harness to rear plug... and don't forget to plug the whole thing back in. It will take awhile for the first batch of cubes dump as the timer may need to cycle completely around to get to the fill cycle... be patient. Dump the first couple of batches of cubes just to make sure you're free of any residue.
Having seen this problem before in other equipment so I had an idea where to look. Problem: the automatic defrost function was not operating. Looking through openings in the back panel of the freezer compartment, you could see the evaporator coils and fins were a solid chuck of ice. There are three logical components to check. Heater element, thermostat (located just above the evaporator) and a relay on the control board (located in the fridge control panel). Checked the heater with an ohm meter -- OK. The thermostat closes the circuit at around 20 degrees and opens at around 32 degrees. Pulled out the thermostat, wiring, fan unit. Everything unplugs, unscrews, and unclips, don't cut wires. Put the whole assembly in a friends freezer for an hour or so to see if the thermostat closes -- OK. Problem had to be with the control board. Replaced control board, reprogrammed it per included instruction. Everything is working again.
I removed the screws in the lower back panel where the compressor is located. Then I unplugged the capacitor and plugged the new one in. I then checked to see if the compressor would start. It wouldn't so I replaced the overload relay with capacitor and that fixed the problem. The capacitor just plugs into the relay then plugs into the compressor. There are several screws but all in all it is easy.
