59650692000 Kenmore Refrigerator - Overview

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Replacement Ice Maker – Part Number: D7824706Q
$147.86
In Stock
Replacement Ice Maker
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Part #D7824706Q
This modular ice maker assembly replaces worn-out units to restore ice production in refrigerators. It includes the ice mold and control device but excludes the cover, ice level arm, wire harness, and mounting hardware, which must be reused or ordered separately. Unplug the refrigerator before installation and use work gloves for safety. Check compatibility with your model number before purchase.
Refrigerator Door Switch – Part Number: W11384469
$43.83
In Stock
Refrigerator Door Switch
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Part #W11384469
Door switch turns the light off when you close the door.
Refrigerator Condenser Fan Motor Kit – Part Number: 833697
$115.19
In Stock
Refrigerator Condenser Fan Motor Kit
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Part #833697
This condenser fan motor operates in a clockwise fashion and carries carries 2W and 115V. It comes with screws, a mounting nut for the blade and a cushion. This part provides forced-air cooling for the condenser coil.
Refrigerator Run Capacitor – Part Number: WP65889-4
$78.05
In Stock
Refrigerator Run Capacitor
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Part #WP65889-4
This part helps the compressor kick on and off while maintaining a constant temperature to keep things frozen in your freezer.
Defrost Timer Kit - 120V 60Hz – Part Number: R0131577
$68.75
In Stock
Defrost Timer Kit - 120V 60Hz
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Part #R0131577
The timer will shut off the cooling system of the refrigerator and the defrost heater will turn on.
Light Bulb - 120V 25W – Part Number: WPA3073101
$20.85
In Stock
Light Bulb - 120V 25W
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(6)
Part #WPA3073101
This twenty-five watt microwave light bulb is two and a half inches long. It has a small, screw-in base and it carries 120V. This item sells in a quantity of one, though many microwaves require two.
Door Closure Cam Kit – Part Number: R0181181
$14.25
In Stock
Door Closure Cam Kit
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Part #R0181181
This part helps with the closing of the door and helps keep them in position.
Door Switch – Part Number: W11396033
$40.90
In Stock
Door Switch
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Part #W11396033
This light switch may also be known as a refrigerator door switch or a light switch kit, and is compatible with your refrigerator. The function of the refrigerator door switch is to turn on the light when your fridge door is open, and to make sure it is off when your refrigerator door is closed. The reason you would need to replace this part is if your light is not turning on when your door is open. For this repair, you will need a putty knife, and a small flat-blade screwdriver.
Refrigerator Water Fill Cup & Bearing – Part Number: WP628356
$46.15
On Order
Refrigerator Water Fill Cup & Bearing
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Part #WP628356
This icemaker water inlet cup is three inches long. It is all white in color and is made of plastic.
Dryer Screw – Part Number: WP90767
$10.40
In Stock
Dryer Screw
Part #WP90767
This screw is sold individually.
Refrigerator Screw – Part Number: WP489349
$10.95
In Stock
Refrigerator Screw
Part #WP489349
This screw is sold individually.
Refrigerator Single Roller – Part Number: WP10450603
$14.95
In Stock
Refrigerator Single Roller
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Part #WP10450603
This wheel is sold individually. It is located on the bottom of the refrigerator.

Manuals & Care Guides for 59650692000

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Common Symptoms of the 59650692000

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Icemaker producing few or no cubes and often leaving "kling-ons" on ice tray
816 of 915 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Bernie from Diamond Bar, CA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
Interior surface of ice tray felt rough & flaky (coating deteriorated) so cubes would not release.
Unplug appliance.
Remove timer cover by hand pressure @ edge.
Remove single attachment screw & bracket at lower front of icemaker.
Disconnect wiring harness from socket @ rear of compartment.
Tricky part was determin ing what type of connection held the other two attachment points along the long edge of the icemaker. I did not have repair manual or useful drawing but looked @ PartsDirect pic of side brackets & used a small mirror to confirm that mine were also some sort of "snap in" attachment.
Remove icemaker unit by pushing upward and outward on the unit. I takes a good bit of pressure and will pop loose, but be careful not to break attachment bracket from freezer wall.
Scavenge shut off bar and wiring harness from old icemaker once you have it out & attach to new one before installing it back in freezer.
Again, you might find a mirror useful to align those pesky snap-in brackets with the new unit.
Since you probably kept your freezer running while waiting for the part, the plastic snap-ins will be cold and brittle. I warmed them up first by applying a dampened cloth heated in the microwave to make them a little more pliable.
A good push of the new unit towards the snap-ins along with some upward force will get it stable.
Reattach the metal screw in bracket & connect the wiring harness to rear plug... and don't forget to plug the whole thing back in.
It will take awhile for the first batch of cubes dump as the timer may need to cycle completely around to get to the fill cycle... be patient.
Dump the first couple of batches of cubes just to make sure you're free of any residue.
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Water overflowed ice maker turnning ice bucket into solid mass of ice
280 of 383 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Harry from Grand Ledge, MI
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
My ice maker has been shedding its non-stick coating for over a year. Within the last month of so, it started pouring water into the ice bucket below, turning it into a solid mass of ice. So I purchased a new ice maker assembly. I encountered two problems not mentioned in the 21 or so do-it-yourselfer repair stories that precede this on e. First problem: one of the three screws that hold the ice maker to the refrigerator wall is hidden behind the large (black) end of the ice maker and is difficult to access. Before trying to replace the ice maker, make sure you have the physical dexterity to remove that screw. Second problem: it is not apparent how to remove the wire harness that plugs into the ice maker assembly. BEFORE you can remove the wire harness, you MUST remove the large white cap that covers the black end of the ice maker assembly and then push in a retaining tab to release the wire harness. If you don't do this, the wire harness will not release. Other than those two problems, it was relatively easy to remove three screws, unplug the wire harness, transfer three small, metal parts from the old ice maker to the new, plug in the new wire harness, mount the ice maker assembly so that the water tube is in the proper position, and then re-install the three screws. The ice maker works fine now. (P.S. I was told by an expert that the real problem might be a malfunctioning fill valve. I would have replaced the fill valve if replacing the ice maker assembly had not fixed the problem.)
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Sometimes the condenser fan would start causing the refrigerator to overheat.
189 of 228 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Tom from Franklin, WI
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
Unplug the appliance.
Removed the screws holding the back panel.
Removed the fan blade.
removed 3 screws holding the condenser fan.
Remove the 3 metal brackets attached to the fan.
(First note which studs the brackets are attached to. Attach the 3 metal brackets to the new fan. (New screws were supplied)
Cut and strip the wire about two inches from the fan.
Cut and strip the new wire. I cut the new wire in half (about 6 inches.) Connect the two wires, twist and used 2 wire nuts. Tie wrap the wire to the wire harness. Mount the new fan (three screws)
Screw the back panel back on.
Mount the new
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