41462 ((ABWEUEU)) LG Washer - Instructions

Wife called me and said the washing machine just flooded the Landry room. I looked at it and didn't see anything wrong. Took the top off and the back off and started looking for a leak, did not see anything. Took the front part of the washer apart thinking the drain hole was plugged up where the rubber boot is. It was ok after taking the big rubber boot off or whatever that is called i was not getting anywhere. I put it back together left the top and the back off. I turned the water on and started the washer on a quick cycle looking for a leak. I found the bellows at the inlet had a small leak fixed that and started the washer again. So what i found out was the clean out drain plug was not in tight letting water out as it was washing after i tightened it all was ok. So i did find a leak that was small that we never saw. The hardest part was putting that wire clamp on the rubber boot it took two people to do that.

To put the new spring on requires two people. One to pull the drum up as far as possible and hold it in place and the other to attach the spring to the drum and the into the slot on the side of the washer frame. It takes a lot of leverage and strength to get the spring into the slot. We used a screw driver as leverage to get the spring extended to slip into the slot. You might also need the plastic holder part# 4930FR3040A. If the washer door boot has come off due to spring breaking, you will need to reset it. That requires also removing front panel. There is a large wire ring that holds the boot in place. You either need a special pair of pliers to expand the spring to reset the boot or a lot of strength to do it with a couple screw drivers.

I already had the top of the washer open, from previous disassembly to clean the front loader seal, and when I ran a trial load, noticed a small 1/4" tear in the hose bellows that attaches to the drum.

Very simple repair, remove the existing hose by loosening the clamps, paying attention to their orientation. Install the existing hose clamps onto the new hose, install and tighten the hose clamps.

5 minute job, if the washer top is off (which is also simple).

2 hose clamps and a hose, easy! This would be a very common cause of leaks in washers due to all the movement inside.

Super straightforward to diagnose and repair.

There was puddle under the washer.

I removed the top (screws in rear, slide top toward rear slightly and lift) and followed the trail of water up to the top washer hose between the drum and detergent tray.

Two hose clamps to remove and replace, then replace the top and ready to go.

I ordered the Rotor Assembly and Sensor Assy..
Rotor Assy. was not the problem.
1 - 17mm bolt in the center of the rotor assy.
6 10mm bolts to take off the Stator assy.
once you have the Stator assy off, upplug the sensor assy and release the clips on the sensor assy. and remove.
Install the new sensor assy. and plug the electrical connection back in.
replace the 6 bolts and screw the bolts evenly around the Stator.
replace the Rotor Assy. and secure the 17mm bolt.
Replace the back cover (4 - philips screws.
Do a test load.

Watched videos but didn’t show the clamp had to be placed on counterclockwise

We replaced the three dampers, two in the front and one in the back. We referred to the YouTube video someone posted on this page.

Change the thermistor

First we unplugged the machine. Then turned off the water and disconnected the hoses. Pulled out the machine and laid it on its side to access the themsistor located on the drum. (No, you do not have to remove the control panel at all to replace this part) The thermsistor is clearly seen with a flashlight. There were plastic ties holding the wires of the thermsistor so we used small scissors to cut the ties. Then unplugged the old thermsistor and plugged in the new thermsistor and used a regular bag twist to secure the wires. Repair complete and the machine is back to normal. Thank you Part Select.