41362 ((ABWEUEU)) LG Washer - Instructions

Pull washer away from wall. Unplug cord and remove drain hose from receptacle. Remove 4 screws holding panel to rear of washer. Squeeze and slide back hose clamps on each end of drain hose and loosen center clamp with screwdriver. Remove old hose. Reinstall new hose in reverse order using existing clamps. Re-install back panel.

Wife called me and said the washing machine just flooded the Landry room. I looked at it and didn't see anything wrong. Took the top off and the back off and started looking for a leak, did not see anything. Took the front part of the washer apart thinking the drain hole was plugged up where the rubber boot is. It was ok after taking the big rubber boot off or whatever that is called i was not getting anywhere. I put it back together left the top and the back off. I turned the water on and started the washer on a quick cycle looking for a leak. I found the bellows at the inlet had a small leak fixed that and started the washer again. So what i found out was the clean out drain plug was not in tight letting water out as it was washing after i tightened it all was ok. So i did find a leak that was small that we never saw. The hardest part was putting that wire clamp on the rubber boot it took two people to do that.

From my research, I thought I needed to replace the Hall Sensor (also known as the Rotor Positioning Sensor). The Part Select site informed me that I might need to also replace the Rotor Assembly. The site said that I could not order just the Hall Sensor - I needed to order the Washer Motor Stator which would include the Hall Sensor. When I received the order, I found that the Motor Stator did not include the Hall Sensor. I found that I could order a part that matched the Hall Sensor I removed from my machine. I then ordered that part. I installed just the new Hall Sensor - the machine worked. I have returned the unused parts.

To put the new spring on requires two people. One to pull the drum up as far as possible and hold it in place and the other to attach the spring to the drum and the into the slot on the side of the washer frame. It takes a lot of leverage and strength to get the spring into the slot. We used a screw driver as leverage to get the spring extended to slip into the slot. You might also need the plastic holder part# 4930FR3040A. If the washer door boot has come off due to spring breaking, you will need to reset it. That requires also removing front panel. There is a large wire ring that holds the boot in place. You either need a special pair of pliers to expand the spring to reset the boot or a lot of strength to do it with a couple screw drivers.

2 hose clamps and a hose, easy! This would be a very common cause of leaks in washers due to all the movement inside.

Super straightforward to diagnose and repair.

There was puddle under the washer.

I removed the top (screws in rear, slide top toward rear slightly and lift) and followed the trail of water up to the top washer hose between the drum and detergent tray.

Two hose clamps to remove and replace, then replace the top and ready to go.

I already had the top of the washer open, from previous disassembly to clean the front loader seal, and when I ran a trial load, noticed a small 1/4" tear in the hose bellows that attaches to the drum.

Very simple repair, remove the existing hose by loosening the clamps, paying attention to their orientation. Install the existing hose clamps onto the new hose, install and tighten the hose clamps.

5 minute job, if the washer top is off (which is also simple).

I ordered the Rotor Assembly and Sensor Assy..
Rotor Assy. was not the problem.
1 - 17mm bolt in the center of the rotor assy.
6 10mm bolts to take off the Stator assy.
once you have the Stator assy off, upplug the sensor assy and release the clips on the sensor assy. and remove.
Install the new sensor assy. and plug the electrical connection back in.
replace the 6 bolts and screw the bolts evenly around the Stator.
replace the Rotor Assy. and secure the 17mm bolt.
Replace the back cover (4 - philips screws.
Do a test load.

Watched videos but didn’t show the clamp had to be placed on counterclockwise

Change the thermistor

We replaced the three dampers, two in the front and one in the back. We referred to the YouTube video someone posted on this page.

Remove old one and replace. Just make sure it is all the way on and secure or you will have a huge mess on your hands.

Simply took hose off from inside machine and replaced it with new one. The tore one had a stopper on one end that wrapped to front machine; inside filter compartment. So I put stopper on the other end of new hose and wrapped it to it's holding spot in filter compartment.

Removed the old bellows (2 squeeze hose clamps and one screw adjustable hose clamp) slid on the new one and it was done!

Did the repair entirely from the back.- 4 screws back cover comes off. Once you see the Bellows it is obvious what needs to come off and there are other videos on the net showing this. The main things I did differently were 1) Leaned the washer forward and placed 3 2x4 blocks of wood under each back leg. This allowed me to reach under the washer with one hand, and through the back with the other. You need both hands in there ! 2) Uninstalling is easy with just pliers. But on the way back in, I used a pair of Locking Pliers to keep the circular clamp squeezed as much as possible. That seemed the only way to get the bellows back in. Another option would be to switch to screw on Pipe clamps instead of the spring clamps.