401415-0152-XX Briggs and Stratton Engine - Overview

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Puller-flywheel – Part Number: 19203
$33.95
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Puller-flywheel
Part #19203
This flywheel puller is designed for servicing larger small engines by safely removing tightly seated flywheels without stressing the crankshaft or damaging ignition components. Constructed from heavy-duty steel and engineered to apply even pulling force, it makes accessing the magneto, crankshaft key, or ignition system straightforward during repairs or overhauls. Built to OEM specifications for durability and precise fit, it’s a reliable tool for maintaining lawn mowers, generators, and pressure washers with compatible engines.
Valve-Intake – Part Number: 261055S
$61.95
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Valve-Intake
Part #261055S
Kit-idle Mixture – Part Number: 292681
$20.95
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Kit-idle Mixture
Part #292681
This is an authentic replacement part manufactured for use with Briggs & Stratton small engines. The idle mixture kit is used to adjust the amount of fuel that is sent to the engine's intake while the engine is idling. This idle mixture kit is available as an individual replacement part.
Screw – Part Number: 691666
$6.95
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Screw
Part #691666
Keeper-valve – Part Number: 494553
$13.95
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Keeper-valve
Part #494553
Motor-starter – Part Number: 497596
$212.95
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Motor-starter
Part #497596
This is an authentic part that is supplied directly by the original equipment manufacturer for Craftsman lawn tractors. The starter motor spins the flywheel to start the engine. This part is made up of a combination of metal and plastic, and it is also sold individually. For installation, you will need a screwdriver a socket wrench and a pair of needle nose pliers to aid you.
Engine Oil Seal – Part Number: 291675S
$12.95
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Engine Oil Seal
Part #291675S
It is a genuine item that is supplied by the original equipment manufacturer for Briggs and Stratton engines commonly installed on a variety of lawn and garden equipment. This is a special component that provides a tight seal for the PTO side of the crankcase. Over time it may wear out and begin to crack eventually requiring a replacement. Check the appropriate diagrams for your specific model to ensure the correct installation of the new seal-oil. To perform this repair you will need a variety of tools such as a screwdriver, a wrench set, pliers and a tool to pick out the old seal. Make sure to drain the oil before starting this repair. Keep in mind, one durable rubber part is included.
Screw – Part Number: 690278
$6.95
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Screw
Part #690278
Pin-piston/std – Part Number: 299691
$31.95
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Pin-piston/std
Part #299691
This is an authentic replacement part that has been sourced from the original manufacturer to be used with small engines from Briggs & Stratton and Toro. The metal pin is used to connect the connecting rod to the piston assembly. This item is available as an individual replacement part, please see illustrated diagram for associative parts.
Bowl-fuel Filter – Part Number: 298683
$24.95
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Bowl-fuel Filter
Part #298683
Condenser – Part Number: 392912
$39.95
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Condenser
Part #392912
Key-flywheel – Part Number: 222698S
$5.95
In Stock
Key-flywheel
Part #222698S
This is a Genuine OEM replacement part used on a variety of Lawn and Garden equipment. The key helps to secure Flywheel in place. This is a Metal Key and it is Sold Individually. You would need Pliers to replace this item.
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Bad governor
12 of 24 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from BROOKVILLE, IN
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set, Wrench set
Look on YouTube for video's on how to replace a Briggs governor. There are several there. My favorite, with best explanation, is, "Easily Replace Briggs Governor Gear (V-Twin Intek Engine) with Taryl". https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wn3eanGxSEA&t=152s.

Taryl (probably not his real name) does a very good job of showing step-by- step the whole procedure, along with some additional hints/tricks/techniques of value.

Not including oil and filter, I spent less than $50 for a new governor, gasket, and drive shaft seal. That's all that is really necessary to replace is those three parts. That is, unless pieces of the old governor tore up a gear, valve, or something else. Inspect everything! {I was lucky and only the governor was destroyed}

One word of note. Be sure to clean out all of the debris from the blown governor. Be sure to remove the spark plugs and carefully rotate the drive shaft while looking for nooks-and-crannies where debris can hide. I tried to use a magnet to help, but it didn't help much, even though the block is aluminum.

Good luck.
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Generator would not start, Birggs & Stratton recommended to replase Gasket Exhaust.
12 of 46 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Alberto from PALMETTO BAY, FL
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Socket set
Remove the spark suppresser, 4 face screws, 2 bottom screws and the two screws the hold the gasket. I also had to back out the top screw of the cover it blocked and prevented the removal of the gasket.
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