This evaporator fan motor grommet, or condenser fan grommet is built for refrigerators. It provides a cushion between the fan motor and the motor mounting bracket. It is made or round, black plastic a...
This is the replacement vegetable pan cover for your refrigerator. It is made of white plastic and measures approximately 26 inches by 18 inches. This part is the frame of the pan only, and does not i...
This part is the replacement snack pan slide rail for your refrigerator. It is made of white plastic and is approximately 16 inches by 2 inches. The crisper draw will slide in and out along this rail....
This 40-Watt light bulb is sold individually and is a genuine OEM replacement option for your home appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, so this bulb is compatible wi...
This snack pan slide rail, also known as a drawer slide rail, is a genuine OEM replacement part for your refrigerator. This slide rail is white in color, and serves to help your snack pan slide in and...
The condenser fan blade assembly helps to regulate the temperature in your refrigerator or freezer. This fan assembly has 4 blades, but other fans may have 3 blades, so be sure to check the number of ...
This is a replacement set screw for your refrigerator door. The set screw attaches the door handle to the stud on the refrigerator door. The screw is approximately ¼ of an inch in length and unlike so...
This condenser fan motor is made for a refrigerator. The motor powers your fan to circulate air to the condenser coil. The condenser coil removes heat from the refrigerant gas. The motor base measures...
This part helps the compressor kick on and off while maintaining a constant temperature to keep things frozen in your freezer. This part has been updated by the manufacturer and may appear different t...
This evaporator fan motor is located in the back of the freezer, and circulates air over the refrigerator coils. These coils will convert the heat into cool air, which is then circulated.
$91.91
Special Order
Questions And Answers for 38489KBSWRSS
Be the first to ask our experts a question about this model!
✖
Ask a Question
Ask our experts a question on this model and we'll respond as soon as we can.
I applied some tips learned by reading other reviews. So before I started I grabbed my trusty vise grip pliers and a small screw driver. I locked onto the switch actuator, the part that the refrigerator door pushes in, with the vise grips and pulled on it just hard enough to get the screw driver inserted in the right side to push in the catch clip so the switch could be pulled out further each time the catch clip was depressed to the next detent. Then I used the screw driver on the left site to encourage the switch past the detents on the left and very quickly the switch was out of the mount. The wires from the refrigerator pulled out with the old switch. I unplugged the old switch from the wires and plugged in the new switch and shoved the new switch back into the mount, wiggled it a couple of times to make sure it was secure and the job was done. Once I applied the vise gripes at first, the whole job took less than a minute.
Had to remove inside panels to expose coils in freezer. Used hair dryer and towels to de-ice. Reading online learned about defrost heater (long thin glass tube with wire coil in it I could not see b/c up under the inside of the coils). Who would have guessed freezers have heaters in them!! And learned the defrost timer (inside the fridge) is just a continuous clock turning on and off the defrost heater. Anyways I used a screwdriver to turn the timer to defrost mode and by disconnecting the wires from each end of the heater and measuring the voltage, I found 70 volts there. Hmmm. I didn't know what was the right volt amount. Reading online I also found out the defrost Thermostat is basically a temp actuated on/off switch for that heater, so that while the timer is sending *120* volts to the heater (which gets red hot by the way) the therm switches the heater off when the temp gets high in the freezer. I eyeballed the therm ( it looks like a little can) and I saw that it was coming apart. The key at this moment is you can cut out and bypass the therm to see if the heater works. If it does you know the therm is the bad boy. But only do this as a momentary test or the heater will probably set your fridge on fire after a while!
Always remember to unplug the fridge when you are messing with the wires! And dry it up inside before putting your hands and tools in there!
So I ordered a therm using the model # of the fridge. Had to cut the old out and strip / wire nut the new one in.
Took too long b/c I was hung up on the heater being bad (after all it didn't heat up when I put the timer in defrost) and not knowing about the rights volts to the heater.
Could not haven been easier. Simply unplug fridge, remove air duct mounted on rear panel, release panel itself, pull fan blade off, disconnect grounding wire, detach fan motor bracket, disconnect wire harness to release fan motor, install new fan motor and reconnect, secure with bracket, reconnect grounding wire, reposition fan blade onto motor shaft, reinstall rear panel and secure screws. Remount air duct and plug appliance back in. VOILA. All done in less than 15 minutes!!!
