3639659683 Kenmore Refrigerator - Overview

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Light Bulb - 40W – Part Number: 40A15
$19.10
Special Order
Light Bulb - 40W
★★★★★
★★★★★
(3)
Part #40A15
This 40-Watt light bulb is sold individually. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, so this bulb is compatible with a variety of appliance types including refrigerators, ranges, microwaves, and dryers. It features a frosted glass bulb with a standard metal socket base, which allows you to easily unscrew the burnt-out light and twist the new bulb into place.
LIGHT SWITCH – Part Number: WR23X37285
No Longer Available
LIGHT SWITCH
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★★★★★
(9)
Part #WR23X37285
The interior light of your refrigerator is controlled by a switch that is activated when the door is opened and closed. If your refrigerator light will not turn on, there could be an issue with the switch. The switch is spring loaded and is a generally closed type of switch meaning there should be no continuity when the button is depressed, and continuity through the switch when the button is not depressed. This plastic, white, OEM switch is sourced directly from the manufacturer, is sold individually and is easy to replace. The repair usually takes less than 15 minutes and requires a flat blade screwdriver and needle nose pliers.
Vegetable Drawer Slide Rail - Right Side – Part Number: WR17X2769
No Longer Available
Vegetable Drawer Slide Rail - Left Side – Part Number: WR17X2770
No Longer Available
Vegetable Drawer Slide Rail - Left Side
Part #WR17X2770
This is the replacement vegetable drawer side rail for the left side of your refrigerator. It is made of white plastic and is approximately 18 inches long, and 6 inches wide. The slide rail supports the crisper drawer as it slides in and out. If the slide rail is broken, you may have difficulty sliding the drawer in and out. This rail is for the left side of the drawer, and the slide for the right side is sold separately. This part is sold individually and is and OEM part.
Center Cover Slide – Part Number: WR17X2768
No Longer Available
Center Cover Slide
Part #WR17X2768
This slide cover or slide rail is a genuine OEM replacement part for your refrigerator. This part is made of white plastic. To install it, simply remove the glass shelf, remove the current slide rail and put the new one in place.
1/4 Tubing Nut – Part Number: WR57X57
$15.73
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1/4 Tubing Nut
Part #WR57X57
Shelf Support – Part Number: WR2X7973
No Longer Available
Shelf Support
Part #WR2X7973
Sold individually.
Refrigerator Plug Door Rvsbl – Part Number: WR01X21159
No Longer Available
Refrigerator Plug Door Rvsbl
Part #WR01X21159
Sold individually.
WZ04X0408 – Part Number: WZ4X416
$13.95
Special Order
WZ04X0408
Part #WZ4X416
Egg Holder Bucket – Part Number: WR32X1435
$51.43
Special Order
Egg Holder Bucket
Part #WR32X1435
RAIL Vegetable PAN FRONT – Part Number: WR17X2779
No Longer Available
RAIL Vegetable PAN FRONT
Part #WR17X2779
Screws - 12 per package – Part Number: WZ4X241D
$32.95
Special Order
Screws - 12 per package
Part #WZ4X241D
Size - 8-18 ab

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Sticking Light Switch
122 of 178 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jonathan from Lilburn, GA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
I applied some tips learned by reading other reviews. So before I started I grabbed my trusty vise grip pliers and a small screw driver. I locked onto the switch actuator, the part that the refrigerator door pushes in, with the vise grips and pulled on it just hard enough to get the screw driver inserted in the right side to push in the c atch clip so the switch could be pulled out further each time the catch clip was depressed to the next detent. Then I used the screw driver on the left site to encourage the switch past the detents on the left and very quickly the switch was out of the mount. The wires from the refrigerator pulled out with the old switch. I unplugged the old switch from the wires and plugged in the new switch and shoved the new switch back into the mount, wiggled it a couple of times to make sure it was secure and the job was done. Once I applied the vise gripes at first, the whole job took less than a minute.
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The refrigirator light would not come on.
26 of 44 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jania from Novato, CA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Poped out with screwdriver the old swithch and unplugged the two wires. Plugged in the wires to the new swithch and pushed it back in the hole where the old switch was before.
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Switch failed on which kept the refrigerator warm due to heat generatered by light bulbs.
19 of 33 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Terry from Simi Valley, CA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
While the switch did last for 9 years, the design is poor due to the failure mode. The failure should be to fail off or not able to turn on the lights which would be inconvenient but would not warm the refrigerator contents. Arcing at the contacts eventually caused the switch to "weld" closed. It is not obvious that this is occurring s o it took some time to recognize why the temp inside the ref was high while the freezer was OK. Replacing the switch was easy once it was recognized as the problem. All that was required to replace the switch was to remove the screws holding a fiber cover and then pulling off the aluminum cap which covered the switches. Unplug the switch an squeeze the keeper on the switch to release it and pull down. Pop the replacement switch in place and plug the wires harness back in. All in all it took much less time to replace than it has to write this up. T Pope
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