36275990000 Kenmore Range - Overview

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Light Bulb - 40W – Part Number: 40A15
$19.10
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Light Bulb - 40W
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(3)
Part #40A15
This 40-Watt light bulb is sold individually. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, so this bulb is compatible with a variety of appliance types including refrigerators, ranges, microwaves, and dryers. It features a frosted glass bulb with a standard metal socket base, which allows you to easily unscrew the burnt-out light and twist the new bulb into place.
Oven Rack – Part Number: WB48T10095
$90.54
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Oven Rack
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Part #WB48T10095
This single chrome oven rack provides a reliable flat cooking surface for your cookware inside of the oven cavity. The oven rack is made of metal and measures approximately 24” wide by 17 1/2” deep. This is a genuine OEM part and is sold individually. Please order quantity needed.
Liquid Propane Orifice Spud – Part Number: WB28K10023
$25.31
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Liquid Propane Orifice Spud
Part #WB28K10023
This orifice spud changes the burner from natural gas to liquid propane. This orifice is sold individually. Size: .89MM
Top Electrode Mounting Clip – Part Number: WB01K10112
$18.04
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Top Electrode Mounting Clip
Part #WB01K10112
This Genuine OEM GE Electrode Clip is a precision-engineered component designed for use across a wide range of gas ranges. Constructed from durable metal, the clip plays a critical role in securing the electrode top within the rangetop and bracket assembly, ensuring stable and reliable ignition performance. Sold individually, this replacement part is ideal for routine maintenance or repair. For ease of installation, a pair of pliers is often recommended to assist with proper placement. Trust in genuine GE parts to maintain the safety and efficiency of your appliance.
Switch – Part Number: WB24T10147
$39.71
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Switch
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Part #WB24T10147
This light switch is controlled by opening and closing the oven door
Orifice Spud - LP - Right Rear – Part Number: WB28K10031
$45.61
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Orifice Spud - LP - Right Rear
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Part #WB28K10031
This orifice spud helps convert the right rear burner of compatible GE stoves from natural gas to liquid propane. It ensures proper gas flow and efficient burner performance. Installation should be done with the appliance powered off and gas supply disconnected. Confirm your model number before purchase.
Top Burner Electrode – Part Number: WB13K10003
No Longer Available
Top Burner Electrode
Part #WB13K10003
Also known as Spark Electrode.
Cooktop Mounting Screw – Part Number: WB01K10008
$13.95
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Cooktop Mounting Screw
Part #WB01K10008
This is a replacement cooktop mounting screw, used to secure the burner. If you are missing that screw on your range, this is the part to replace it. This screw is about a half an inch in length and is sold individually. It is an OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer.
LP Orifice - Right Front – Part Number: WB28K10032
$35.95
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LP Orifice - Right Front
Part #WB28K10032
BRACKET ANTI-TIP Assembly – Part Number: WB02K10254
$35.46
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Burner - Large – Part Number: WB16K10007
$44.40
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Burner - Large
Part #WB16K10007
End Cap - Right Side – Part Number: WB07K10095
No Longer Available
End Cap - Right Side
Part #WB07K10095
This end cap is located on the right hand side of the manifold.

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Convection oven fan and door light not working
18 of 22 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael from Albuquerque, NM
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
The first step was to determine whether the problem was with the fan itself or the switch. I did this by opening the back cover and using a Volt meter to verify that the fan was not getting power. (I could have skipped this step.)

Next, I unplugged the range, closed up the back cover and lifted the range hood by removing two he x head screws that are just inside and on either side of the top of the opening in the range door. Propping the hood open, I removed the connector leading to the switch, then pushed the switch out the front. Inspection showed that the switch was damaged so I closed up the range and ordered the part from Part Select. Once the part arrived, it was a 15 minute job to unplug the range, lift the top, install the new switch, and close up the unit.

Caution. On starting to install the switch, I failed to unplug the range and my finger brushed one of the hot contacts leading to the switch. Thankfully, I was not injured. Do not repeat my mistake on this issue. Unplug the range even if you're only installing this simple switch.
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Damaged both front burner tubes.
15 of 15 people found this instruction helpful.
  • william from Tampa, FL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Wrench set
While i was inserting the new lp,gas orriface to the right rear burner tube I dropped the oriface.Without looking i popped the top of the burner unit, like most older type stoves, and thats when i ran into my problem. I realized the burner tube assemblies are attached by 3 screws to the top cover.Not attached to the cabinet as the older m odels, Basically cracked both front aluminum tubes trying to retrieve the dropped oriface. so i had to replace the burner tube units, which involved removing 3 screws, and loosing up and removal of the nut to the main gas tube. extremely easy repair, next time i`ll try to remember look before i leap,total time to (r+r)burner tubes about 20 minutes.Parts select pulled me out of the fire on this one, great staff and service, with quick delivery.
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Range Top Burners would not ignite
17 of 24 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Kevin from Monroe, NY
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers
Here's how I fixed my problem.
I took the aluminum cover, the part that sits over the jet & the igniter, which simply comes off. It's the part that the igniter discharges to. I took this cover off & using a pencil I scratched the lead of the pencil into the area
which is around the igniter. I made sure to cover the area wit h as much lead as I could get on it. You need to make sure that you do this to all four burners. The only care you need to take, is not to block the gas jet which is in the igniter recess. It's been about 3 weeks since I added this & the burners click loudly & have lit without a problem. It appears that the aluminum may develop a coating on it of some kind which is highly resistive.
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