The flat style gas oven igniter included in this kit has a body length of 3-3/4". This kit comes with a mounting bracket and a wire connector with a plug. *Please note: the connector plug might need t...
This 40-Watt light bulb is sold individually and is a genuine OEM replacement option for your home appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, so this bulb is compatible wi...
This part is the replacement light socket for your oven. The oven light socket provides power to the light, and at the same time holds the light bulb in place.
This part is the replacement screw for your oven/range. The size of the screw is 10-16 x .95in. It is made of metal and is sold individually. This is an authentic OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer.
First, I removed the two screws that held the heat shield in place. Second, I removed the one screw that held a small wire covering. That covering kept the wires inside the back wall of the range. Third, I removed the two screws that held the Igniter Kit, and unplugged it from the back of the range. I then carefully put the new igniter in, and reassembled everything in reverse order. It only took about 30 minutes to do the repair, and 30 minutes of cleaning and wiping of the broiler area. (It is amazing what you see when you take things apart). I should have been wiping things up over the past few months. Overall, a very easy repair. I ordered the part at 12:30 in the afternoon, and FedEx delivered it the next morning at 11:30, all for the regular shipping price of $6.95. VERY HAPPY.....
first I thought it was a faulty gas valve, so I pulled it out, started researching for a replacement part, found your site and started research. I discovered thhat the igniter was the culprit, that info. saved me about a week of time and a 100 bucks, so I installed the gas safety valve back in the oven, patience is the word for the day, you cross thread this and you are done! any way ordered ignighter and it shipped to my house in about 4 days, New York to Calif. had it installed in about 15 minutes fired off the oven and ...IT worked hurray...10-9-2010,
1. Pulled the 110V power plug. It was not necessary to turn off the gas; just be careful not to stretch or pinch the flexhose behind the stove. 2. Removed the oven door by opening a couple of inches then lifting upward. 3. Removed the warming drawer by pulling out to the stop, then pushing the small levers on the side of the track to release. 4. Removed two flathead screws at the back of the oven to free up the oven bottom panel. 5. Removed the bottom panel by lifting up the pack until the front edge clears the overhang. 6. Removed the two screws on the side that hold the igniter to the burner tube. Be sure not to let the screws drop into the gaps in the oven floor. Note the position of the bent tab with the holes to ease aligning the new part. 7. Reached through the warming drawer to release the plug by squeezing the tabs on the end. 8. Pulled the plug up through the gap in the oven floor (where the wires went through) and connected it to the other connector. 9. Ran the new wire down through the oven floor. 10. Aligned the new igniter and tightened them. Had trouble getting the screws started so I used a toothpick to align one hole while starting the other screw. 11. Replaced the oven bottom panel. It needed a little jockeying to get the screws and holes aligned. 12. Replaced the door. 13. Replaced the oven drawer.
This turned out to be a good time to clean all those dusty places that don't get cleaned that often.
