36272322100 Kenmore Range - Overview

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Flat Style Oven Igniter Kit – Part Number: WB13K21
$142.92
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Flat Style Oven Igniter Kit
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★★★★★
(31)
Part #WB13K21
The flat-style oven igniter lights the gas burner in your oven. It includes a mounting bracket, two ceramic wire connectors, and measures 3-3/4 inches long. The plug may need to be spliced to the range wiring. Always unplug the range before installation.
Light Bulb - 40W – Part Number: 40A15
$19.10
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Light Bulb - 40W
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(3)
Part #40A15
This 40-Watt light bulb is sold individually. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, so this bulb is compatible with a variety of appliance types including refrigerators, ranges, microwaves, and dryers. It features a frosted glass bulb with a standard metal socket base, which allows you to easily unscrew the burnt-out light and twist the new bulb into place.
Foot - Leveller – Part Number: WB02X10521
$29.72
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Foot - Leveller
Part #WB02X10521
Sold individually.
Oven Rack – Part Number: WB48T10095
$90.54
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Oven Rack
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(6)
Part #WB48T10095
This single chrome oven rack provides a reliable flat cooking surface for your cookware inside of the oven cavity. The oven rack is made of metal and measures approximately 24” wide by 17 1/2” deep. This is a genuine OEM part and is sold individually. Please order quantity needed.
Burner Head - Medium - 9500 – Part Number: WB16K10055
$102.99
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Liquid Propane Orifice Spud – Part Number: WB28K10023
$25.31
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Liquid Propane Orifice Spud
Part #WB28K10023
This orifice spud changes the burner from natural gas to liquid propane. This orifice is sold individually. Size: .89MM
Top Electrode Mounting Clip – Part Number: WB01K10112
$18.04
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Top Electrode Mounting Clip
Part #WB01K10112
This Genuine OEM GE Electrode Clip is a precision-engineered component designed for use across a wide range of gas ranges. Constructed from durable metal, the clip plays a critical role in securing the electrode top within the rangetop and bracket assembly, ensuring stable and reliable ignition performance. Sold individually, this replacement part is ideal for routine maintenance or repair. For ease of installation, a pair of pliers is often recommended to assist with proper placement. Trust in genuine GE parts to maintain the safety and efficiency of your appliance.
Burner Cap - Medium – Part Number: WB29K10004
$66.50
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Burner Cap - Medium
Part #WB29K10004
This part is the replacement burner cap for your gas range. It is made of gray plastic and is approximately 3 inches in diameter. It has 3 small tabs on the bottom, with one tab that is larger than the others. This tab fits into the v-shaped slot. The burner cap is found under the grate, and it protects the burner. If your current burner cap is damaged or missing, this is the part that replaces it. Before you begin this repair, be sure that the burner cap and the grate are cool to the touch. To replace the burner cap, simply lift the grate off and remove the cap. Replace it with the new cap to complete your repair. This part is sold individually and is an OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer.
SCREW 8-22 PL 1HX 71 – Part Number: WB01K10012
$16.95
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Top Burner Electrode – Part Number: WB13K10003
No Longer Available
Top Burner Electrode
Part #WB13K10003
Also known as Spark Electrode.
Cooktop Mounting Screw – Part Number: WB01K10008
$13.95
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Cooktop Mounting Screw
Part #WB01K10008
This is a replacement cooktop mounting screw, used to secure the burner. If you are missing that screw on your range, this is the part to replace it. This screw is about a half an inch in length and is sold individually. It is an OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer.
BRACKET ANTI-TIP Assembly – Part Number: WB02K10254
$35.46
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Manuals & Care Guides for 36272322100

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The igniter glowed, but never got hot enough to ignite the propane, so I did smell propane.
678 of 734 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Sidney from Marysville, CA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
First, I removed the two screws that held the heat shield in place. Second, I removed the one screw that held a small wire covering. That covering kept the wires inside the back wall of the range. Third, I removed the two screws that held the Igniter Kit, and unplugged it from the back of the range. I then carefully put the new ignite r in, and reassembled everything in reverse order. It only took about 30 minutes to do the repair, and 30 minutes of cleaning and wiping of the broiler area. (It is amazing what you see when you take things apart). I should have been wiping things up over the past few months. Overall, a very easy repair. I ordered the part at 12:30 in the afternoon, and FedEx delivered it the next morning at 11:30, all for the regular shipping price of $6.95. VERY HAPPY.....
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oven would not light or keep temp.
450 of 468 people found this instruction helpful.
  • zack from corning, CA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
first I thought it was a faulty gas valve, so I pulled it out, started researching for a replacement part, found your site and started research. I discovered thhat the igniter was the culprit, that info. saved me about a week of time and a 100 bucks, so I installed the gas safety valve back in the oven, patience is the word for the day, you cross thread this and you are done! any way ordered ignighter and it shipped to my house in about 4 days, New York to Calif. had it installed in about 15 minutes fired off the oven and ...IT worked hurray...10-9-2010,
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Oven wouldn't heat. This degraded over several weeks.
310 of 411 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Durwood from Suffield, CT
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
1. Pulled the 110V power plug. It was not necessary to turn off the gas; just be careful not to stretch or pinch the flexhose behind the stove.
2. Removed the oven door by opening a couple of inches then lifting upward.
3. Removed the warming drawer by pulling out to the stop, then pushing the small levers on the side of the t rack to release.
4. Removed two flathead screws at the back of the oven to free up the oven bottom panel.
5. Removed the bottom panel by lifting up the pack until the front edge clears the overhang.
6. Removed the two screws on the side that hold the igniter to the burner tube. Be sure not to let the screws drop into the gaps in the oven floor. Note the position of the bent tab with the holes to ease aligning the new part.
7. Reached through the warming drawer to release the plug by squeezing the tabs on the end.
8. Pulled the plug up through the gap in the oven floor (where the wires went through) and connected it to the other connector.
9. Ran the new wire down through the oven floor.
10. Aligned the new igniter and tightened them. Had trouble getting the screws started so I used a toothpick to align one hole while starting the other screw.
11. Replaced the oven bottom panel. It needed a little jockeying to get the screws and holes aligned.
12. Replaced the door.
13. Replaced the oven drawer.

This turned out to be a good time to clean all those dusty places that don't get cleaned that often.
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