358794240 Craftsman Trimmer - Overview

Diagrams for 358794240

See every part. Know exactly what you need.

Enter a part description. DIY Heroes keep it simple, eg. "belt" or "pump".

Search filter:
Clear Filter
Your search term must have 3 or more characters.
Shield – Part Number: 530069752
No Longer Available
Shield
Part #530069752
Gearbox – Part Number: 530095638
No Longer Available
Gearbox
Part #530095638
This part is an OEM from Craftsman for use with Craftsman Trimmers. The gearbox contains the gears that turn the line spool for cutting. The most common reasons for replacing the gearbox is if the trimmer head is not spinning while the shaft is spinning or there is grinding noise coming from trimmer head. This part is sold separately. The tools that you will need to replace the gearbox are a small screwdriver or hex wrench, Phillip's screwdriver, socket/ratchet set (or wrench set).
Crankcase – Part Number: 530071360
No Longer Available
Crankcase
Part #530071360
Washer – Part Number: 530016131
No Longer Available
Washer
Part #530016131
Nose Clamp A – Part Number: 530056365
No Longer Available
Nose Clamp A
Part #530056365
Decal – Part Number: 530055574
No Longer Available
Decal
Part #530055574
Screw – Part Number: 530016202
No Longer Available
Screw
Part #530016202
Wingnut Nylon – Part Number: 530016225
No Longer Available
Wingnut Nylon
Part #530016225
Decal-Fan Housing – Part Number: 530055421
No Longer Available
Decal-Fan Housing
Part #530055421
Carburetor Adapter – Part Number: 530055459
No Longer Available
Carburetor Adapter
Part #530055459
Trimmer Line Spool – Part Number: 85844
No Longer Available
Trimmer Line Spool
Part #85844
Shroud – Part Number: 530055518
No Longer Available
Shroud
Part #530055518

Common Symptoms of the 358794240

How this model fails, and the parts that fix it.

See how others fixed this model. Time, tools, difficulty, and steps that lead to victory! View More

Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!

Search filter:
Clear Filter
Your search term must have 3 or more characters.
Both the Fuel line and the Engine fuel line, where dry rotted.
57 of 75 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Victor from SCOTTSVILLE, KY
  • Very Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Socket set
1) While still attached to the fuel tank, I first sized up the old fuel lines with the newer fuel lines.
2) With a pair of needle nose players, I then removed the old dry rotted fuel ?? lines, from the fuel tank.
3) I cleaned the fuel tank and around the carburetor area, to insure that there was no debris, that could possibly fa ll into the path of the new fuel lines installation.
4) I then installed the smaller one of the fuel lines, so that it would be out of the way, of the larger fuel line. I Pulled the fuel line through the smaller hole in the fuel tank, with needle nose players. I pulled the smaller fuel line out through the fuel tank filler hole, attached the fuel filter to the smaller fuel line. I Made sure that the fuel filter was extended to the furthest end of the fuel tank bottom. Six inches in all. I then attached the smaller fuel line to the carburetor.
5) I Installed the larger fuel line, followed the same procedures as the smaller fuel line.
6) Both fuel lines where cut on an angle for easy installation. No lubricant was necessary.
7) I filled up the fuel tank with fresh fuel and oil, new air filter and spark plug. It started on the first pull. Amazing.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
installing fuel through fuel tank wall
11 of 18 people found this instruction helpful.
  • RICHARD from BROCKTON, MA
  • Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
To start, remove the plastic carburetor grill. DO NOT remove the carburetor. The fuel line has to be sliced down to fit through the tank hole and get it in far enough up into the tank to grab with needle nose pliers.( need long needle nose pliers which I didn't have) I placed about six inches of the plastic tubing in the jaws of vice so t hat half of the tube was squeezed in the vice jaws. I then used a razor blade to shave off the exposed tube. I slipped the shaved end of the tube up through the tank hole far enough to grab with long tweezers and pulled it up to where I could grab it in the tank with needle nose pliers. I put light lube oil on the remaining tubing and pulled it through. It takes a steady firm pull to pull it in. Install the filter and pull the tube back down into the tank. I also used a small diameter drill bit and with my fingers slightly reamed the tube ends to ease the tube over the filter and carburetor nipples. To prime the engine, spray starting fluid into the carburetor and start. Repeat until the engine will run on fuel. It took me hours to figure this out, but will take less than an hour with this method.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Split fuel line driving brother-in-law to frustration
1 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Howard from UNICOI, TN
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers
Seven screw, three case cover, two air cleaner, two carb mounting, pulled carb, drained tank, pulled old fuel line, treaded new one in, wire to thread, thread to angle cut fuel line. Reassemble, test, sharpen chain, retest…not exactly a doityourselfer, graduate degree in mechanical/industrial engineering and former medium/heavy mechanica l. Get fuel line on carb prior to reassembly, line may need some stretching with a tapered punch.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!