2927 - Instructions

I first tested the motor per the service manual. I checked the resistance between the terminals of the 3 pin connector. It's supposed to be 5-15 ohms. The motor checked out so I replaced the main electrical board. It turns out that wasn't the problem. After a brief web search I found out that the hall sensor (which is attached to the motor stator) was the likely cause of the failure. I replaced that and everything works great now. And now I have a spare main board in case that ever fails. I also want to mention that I took the time to remove the dispenser box (where the water comes in and is directed to the different cleaning products) and cleaned it with a very strong bleach solution. It got rid of the mildew and funky smell. It seems that the fabric softener caused a lot of mildew to form inside the dispenser directly above the fabric softener tray. The bleach took care of that. This is probably something that should be done routinely to keep the mildew from forming.

Removed back of washer with screw driver, Removed outer motor cover with a 17 mm socket (1 bolt), Removed motor stater using 10 mm socket (8 bolts). Left motor plugged in and and tipped to the side exposing the sensor. Unplug and snap off sensor. Reassembled in opposite order. Machine works great. Very easy fix, and perfect fit on part.

I first thought there was a mechanical problem but after checking everything mechanical I discounted that idea ... I researched and found out from others with a similar problem that the Le code display was probably a sensor problem ... I ordered a replacement sensor ... With the new sensor available, I removed the access panel to the back of the machine (phillips head screw driver - 4 screws) ... Remove the exposed motor half (1 bolt - 17mm scocket) ... Loosen the motor stator that has the wired coils (10mm socket - 6 bolts) ... Hold motor unit to the side without disconnecting the wiring harness ... Disconnect the sensor wire connector and remove the old sensor ... Clip the new sensor in place (same position as the old one) and re-connect ... Reverse the assembly procedures ... This fixed the problem and the washing machine works like a new one ... The wife is HAPPY!

Disconnected power supply and water supply hoses. Laid machine on its back because this is a top load machine. Removed one bolt to take off stator then 6 bolts to remove rotor. Put it on side without taking off wire assembly. Snapped off rotor position sensor and installed new one. Put all back together and connected power supply and new stainless braided hoses. WORKS PERFECT. Thanks !

Had to remove the 4 range knobs, and the oven knob and then the facie. Two screws under the end caps and two on each side from the back on each end. Design defect: one of these screws which attaches through the frame to the facie also attaches the support which holds up the range top. Take that one off last. Remove the two wires that attach to the oven light switch. After detaching the power supply to the defective ignition unit, it just pulls right off. Push the new switch on over the knob shaft and reassemble.

Watch this video on youtube:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8ZKgP6hu8Fk very similar

Keep all parts separate and in order in a plastic box with dividers
1. Disconnect washer from wall. (electrical and hot/cold hoses, drain tube)
2. Remove center cap from bottom tub plate
3. Remove small bolt under cap
4. Remove bottom Tub Plate
5. Remover washer
6. Remove larger 38mm nut (I bought the correct deep well socket) Ive seen other video use a pipe wrench)
6a. Remove the large washer under nut
NOTE- I did not remove the tub, total hassle, found it unnecessary, Yes the washer was heavier but nothing that cant be managed.
7. Place a blanket on the floor and lay the washer on its back to access the bottom.
NOTE Everthing is nuts and bolts at this point. 10mm socket worked on all
8. Remove Nut & washer on rotor. Remove rotor-its has a line of magnets and the edges are sharp. Just wiggle it a bit. wear gloves if need be.
9. Remove bolts from Stator, user a small flat blade screw driver to undo 1 or 2 (some) electrical connections. Lay the stator aside. Move the electric connector(s) out of the way.
10. Remove the grounding wire at 6 oclock position
11.Remove the rectangular pack and the 3 oclock position by removing 2 bolts. It has a small arm that reaches out to the clutch arm, slide the piece out to the widest part of hole in clutch arrn an wiggle it loose.
Almost there....
12. Remove all the 10MM headed bolts from the clutsh and drive assemble The inner bolts are a slightly different style, keep the two sets separate.
13. Remove the clutch and drive.

NOTE: if the drive doesnt come out with a slight pull, you have missed a bolt(s)-inspect and remove as need be

14 Wipe clean the pocket in the outer wash tub that accepts the seal on the top of the drive. Lubricate the new drives seal completely with a little dishwasher detergent so it slides smoothly and seals well.

15. Assembly is the reverse:

Last Notes:
*Install all bolts for the clutch and drive hand tight as you get everything lined up.
*Once all bolt are in the clutch and drive are hand tight, tighten the bolts in a cross pattern as you would a wheels lug nuts
*Snug the bolts used to attached the clutch and drive firmly 1/8 to 1/4 turn past snug
*Make sure you clock the stator to the correct position, again hand tighten bolts then final tighten in a cross pattern.
*The nut and washer in the rotor tighten to 1/4 to 1/2 turn past snug, its tight.
*The large 38 MM nut on the top of the drive assembly torque is 88 ft lbs. Have a partner or friend hold the tub while you torque the large nut. If you don't have a torque wrench you can rent one from a number of auto-part chain stores.
*I used a 1/2 Impact gun to remove the 38mm nut, Never use that kind of power to reassemble as it will damage parts.


Good luck, you can do it.

This is a15 minute , 1 person job. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, pliers to unhook drain hoses from pump, 10mm socket, flashlight or a good light source,
and some rags to clean up water. Unplug washer from outlet, drained out as much water as possible, turned it away from wall so I had room. Unscrewed 4 screws from back panel. Unhooked drain hose from tube to pump, some water will leak out, have towels ready to soak up. Then unhook the other drain hose from pump to wall drain. Get your 10mm socket with ratchet ready, unhook the blue and white wires that attach to pump, then use your ratchet to remove 3 bolts that hold pump. Replace in reverse order. This is a very easy job.

Disconnect elec., hot and cold water supply and drain hose. Lay washer on it's back. Removed nut from center housing. Removed screws from stater. Disconnected wires with flat screw driver at sensor and stater. Installes new sensor. Put everything back together. Washer works great. No LE code.

Disconnect machine from power source. Then, disconnect any tubes from the back side (make sure you close any water valves before doing so). Then, lay the machine on its back to access the bottom of the machine. Then, locate the thermistor and replace it with the new one (the thermistor will have two screws holding it in place, simply remove the screws and replace the thermistor, then screw it back in). After the new part is installed, stand the machine back up and make sure to connect any tubing to its proper place. Done.

We followed the installation video step by step that was found on another website.

Just set in the new grate and start cooking

Removed the burner plates. Lifted up the range top. Removed the knobs. Unbolted the 2 rounded nuts at top of face plate. Removed the 4 screws that hold the face plate in place from behind. Un plugged the old switch and plugged in the new one and bam! The burner worked. Thanks, Super fast shipping! The part was here in less than 36 hours. John, N.J.

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model

1. ordered two new switches
2. installed switches
3. all ignitors work

Really appreciated the pictures of the parts--made selection very easy.

I used the experience of another user posted on your web site. I removed all the gas control knobs and then I followed his instructions about removing the four phillps head screws that held the front plate in place. Once I had it loose and flipped the plate out, it was simple to disconnect the old ignitor switch and install the new one. Simply reversing the process put the range back in proper order. Took a little over 15 minutes to accomplish.