2231 - Instructions

After reading up on the problem of the gas oven not lighting I decided I needed to install a new igniter. I had read where some people just pulled a panel off the back and installed a new one.. yeah, no such luck with this model so I had to crawl into the broiler drawer space [which I had to clean out first]. Note, if you wear trifocal glasses you might as well close your eyes and replace it by feel because there is no way to tilt your head back enough to see what you are doing and still get both arms and your chest in a broiler. Also be sure to remove all cats and dogs from the area before starting. They seem to think they can help or it's a game of hide and seek and they want to hide with you.. they were no help at all.
Other than that, it was quite easy.

pulled old one out , cleaned the area & replaced with the new one.

Removed the old grease screen and cleaned the entire area thoroughly and replaced the screen

1. Turned off circuit breaker to stove
2. Removed the two screws holding down the floor of the oven (screws are at back.), and then lifted it out.
3. Removed the nut holding down the flame guard, and lifted it off.
4. Opened the bottom drawer.
5. Removed the protective cover in the back left of the oven at the bottom, first removing the one screw at the bottom that holds it. This reveals a white plug, presumably going to a fuse.
6. Disconnected the white plastic connector, lifting its front tab to release it.
7. The igniter wires go to two lugs that attach at the floor of the oven at the back (one goes via the now free white connector). Slide back the plastic lug covers and use pliers to pull off the lugs. Note that the wider one (on the right) goes to the top of the igniter, while the narrower one (on the left) goes to the bottom of the igniter via the white plastic connector.
8. Removed the two bolts holding the igniter.
9. At this point, the igniter comes out. Nice, since it means you can work on the wires in comfort.
10. Slide the flame retardant sleeves away from the igniter. I found in-line connections about 1.5 inches from the igniter, and cut the wires next to these (on the side away from the igniter, of course.), and stripped the final 3/8 inch. Shorten the wires on the replacement igniter so that they are 3 or 4 inches long, slide on the flame retardant sleeves, then strip the final 3/8ths inch. Use the provided caps to connect the wires. Bottom wire goes to the plastic connector, top wire goes to the wide lug.
11. Install the new igniter by connecting the lugs, sliding on their protective plastic sleeves, reconnecting the white plastic connector, screwing in the two igniter mounting screws, and reinstalling the corner cover. Put back the flame shield and floor of the oven. Turn on the circuit breaker, and it works!

Turned off the power at the breaker box, cut the wires approximately 5 inches from the bad receptacle and removed it after removing one screw. Stripped back the wires about 1/2 inch and attached the new wires with the ceramic wire nuts provided and secured the receptacle back in place with the new screw provided in the kit.
My sister's husband wanted to scrap the whole range but I repaired it with $14.00 worth of parts.
The element is working great now.
Whenever I need appliance parts again I'll use partselect.com.

I first looked up my Model Number on PartSelect.com and looked at the schematic as well as Trouble Shooted my problem.

Reading the posts by others how they Removed, Replaced, and Repaired their Oven Ignitors, I used their helpful info, and of course did mine.

1. Unplugged my Oven/Stove.

2. Removed bottom storage door to get access to cover plate.

3. Removed oven racks inside oven to gain access to and removed Flame Cover.

4. Removed Screw holding Oven Ignitor in place.

5. Unplugged Ignitor Plug from feed wird in Oven from underneath.

6. Removed Oven Ignitor from the bottom area where storage drawer was.

7. Installed new Ignitor and replaced screw holding Ignitor assembly in place.

8. Replace Flame cover and racks.

9. Plugged in new ignitor underneath, and replaced cover plate.

10. Plugged in Stove/Oven and Oven began to heat! IGNITOR worked!

11. Replaced bottom drawer and slid Stove back into position.

All went easy and only difficulty was replacing cover plate below as it is awkward and having to line up screws/holes was a bit trying.

Using Work Light essential to see well, and, some screws may or can be hard to remove.

Both my neighbor and I ordered our Ignitors within a week of each other. My Oven was Amana his is a Tappan. His failed after a few weeks, but, PartSelect replaced promptly and we are all happy.

I am an HVAC tech by trade so it wasn't difficult to diagnose problem with safety valve. The hard part was being without an oven for a week. Repair was simple and effective--oven works good as new.
Shut off gas and unplugged oven. Removed floor of oven between broiler and bake section, used wrenches to disconnect gas line from safety valve in back of oven, used philipps head screwdriver to remove burner assembly and gas valve, reversed process to replace. Checked out operation--OK.

1. Killed power and removed the regulator's knob, noted the position of the old control.
2. Took off the cover for the center vent and loosened the two screw holding the housing in place--the screws didn't have to come out completely as it is a U-shaped friction hold.
3. Unscrewed the two screws holding the old control switch in place--lifted the housing enough to get at the old switch and carefully pulled it loose--it was a front burner so the control switch was about as far back as it could be but still wasn't that hard to get at.
4. Turned the new switch to orient the wire connectors, then, using a needle-nose pliers, removed each friction connector, one at a time, and fitted them on the new switch (note: one of the wires fitted best if it went under as opposed to around the base of the new switch).
5. Replaced the control back through the housing and screwed it in place, making sure the orientation of the control matched the way it looked originally.
6. Slide the housing back over the two screws and tightened, replace vent.
7. Replaced the knob and turned on the power.

(The above took me about twice as long to write as it did to make the repair and I write professionally but am not a professional electrician.)

Also, I bought a second control switch because, given the age of the unit, I'm sure another one will go. The second one will assure that it won't happen :-).

Turned Off Breaker!
Removed 2 screws that held Igniter in place.
Cut Old Wires Free
Marked location to old igniter with tape so I didn't cross connect.
Stripped new wire ends.
Used Wire Nuts to connect New part (provided).
Installed New Igniter with 2 screws.
Flipped Breaker On.
Tested
WORKS PERFECT.

Saved over $500.00 by repairing rather than replacing.

I had put up with a filter that got more and more raggedy every year, but I thought my 30 yr. old range/grill top was too old for me to find an replacement filter. What a great service you offer. I found you by web-surfing, typed in the model #, and presto--you sent me the shiny new filter. All I had to do was pop it in and throw away the nasty grill (after washing the scent off to keep the bears out of my Colorado garbage.) Thank you!

Cleaned out the downdraft cove, inserted the new filter, and put old filter in garbage can. Laughing. Thanks. Wish you had a FAQ's hotline. I'd like to know if the radiant inserts fit the older coil-type models.

Parts arrived in three days and it was an easy swap of the hinges but the same problem still existed: the oven door wouldn't close completely, so the oven light stayed on and the convection wouldn't work either unless the door closed all the way. The replacement hinge's springs apparently aren't strong enough to close it and the springs aren't adjustable - which is a design flaw. I did correct the problem though, by using three dollars worth of 1" round magnets, which I placed inside the door: they stay put and are strong enough to pull the door tight.

One screw holds the block onto the stove top. Had to clean out fitting for phillips screwdriver or screw would have stripped because it was old with lots of buildup. Even cleaned out, this screw required great force with phillips screwdriver to keep from stripping. Caution! If you strip it, you'll have to drill it out! The rest was a snap. Cut the old wires leading to the old block (not too close to where wires disappear into back of stove, though!). Strip insulation off both wires and attach with the connectors that came in the kit. Then push the wires into the block, and finally, attach the block back to the stove top (new screw is supplied). Restore power and everything should be fine. One problem: Roper/Whirlpool built their appliance in such a way that when the connector block shorts out, it usually takes the infinite switch with it. So I ended up having to go back and purchase that switch as well (which just so happens to cost twice to three times as much!). If you put it all back together and it still doesn't work, that's probably what happened, so go ahead and remove the knob panel and check that switch (it's right behind the control knobs on the front). You will probably find a burned connector at the back top left or the switch. Don't forget to write down which wire goes where (or just take a picture of it).

Bought a new house last fall. Jenn-Air range had two element cooktop with two element grill. Oven went out and while service man was here, I asked him to check on the price of another two heater element panel to replace the grill. He subsequently called to say the part I wanted was not available. I immediately got on the internet and did a search. Found it "ships same day" for what I thought was a very reasonable price at PartSelect. Unplugged the grill and plugged in the cooking plate. We now have four usable "burners" instead of two. Thanks PartSelect!

Turned power off at electrical panel. Pulled oven away from wall. Removed back cover (6 screws), then unplugged wires from old receptacle. I had to pull the squeeze clips backwards & break them to remove the old receptacle - couldn't squeeze them enough to remove them otherwise. The old receptacle came out through the inside of the oven, and the new one snapped in easily from inside the oven as well. Replaced wiring, installed new bulb, restored power & tested. Replaced back cover. Good time to vacuum under/behind where the oven usually lives before sliding it back to the wall.