20215 (1988) Kenmore Range - Overview

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Surface Burner Switch - 240V – Part Number: W11120791
$115.78
In Stock
Surface Burner Switch - 240V
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Part #W11120791
This surface burner switch, also known as an infinite switch, is a key electrical component that controls the heat output of your stovetop burners. When you turn the control knob, the switch adjusts the power level to the burner, allowing for precise temperature regulation during cooking. If your burner is not heating properly, overheating, or stuck at a fixed temperature, the switch may be faulty and should be replaced. This part is compatible with a variety of ranges, wall ovens, and cooktops, and is sold individually without additional hardware. Installation requires a screwdriver, pliers, and a wiring diagram. Be sure to disconnect the appliance from the power source before beginning. To replace, remove the control knobs and access the underside of the control panel, then disconnect the old switch and wiring before securing the new one in place.
Oven Door Seal – Part Number: WPY702338
$169.29
In Stock
Oven Door Seal
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Part #WPY702338
This oven door seal prevents heat from escaping the oven cavity when in use.
Range Screw – Part Number: WP179051
$10.95
In Stock
Range Screw
Part #WP179051
Sold individually. Lock washers are used with screws when vibration from an appliance may cause the screw to loosen. Lock washers are also used in the electrical components of an appliance to ensure an electrical connection is not lost.
Bake Element (16 Inch long x 19 Inch wide) – Part Number: WPY04100019
$137.98
In Stock
Bake Element (16 Inch long x 19 Inch wide)
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Part #WPY04100019
This electric oven bake element with screw in wire terminals is 19 inches wide. It has a terminal depth of three inches and a total element length of nineteen inches. This element is intended for use with some electric ovens.
2 Piece Broiler Pan – Part Number: 4396923
$66.88
In Stock
2 Piece Broiler Pan
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Part #4396923
This broiler pan and roasting rack set features a two-piece design that allows fat to drain away for cleaner cooking and reduced splatter. Made with a durable, high-heat resistant porcelain finish, it offers reliable performance and easy cleanup. Measuring approximately 16 3/4 inches long by 12 3/4 inches wide and 1 3/4 inches high, it provides a practical solution for everyday broiling and roasting.
Light Bulb Socket – Part Number: WP74003387
No Longer Available
Light Bulb Socket
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Part #WP74003387
This light bulb socket is located inside the oven cavity.
Range Burner Cartridge Terminal Block – Part Number: WPY708730
$74.75
In Stock
Range Burner Cartridge Terminal Block
Part #WPY708730
No spades or wiring come with this part. To order the spades or wiring, please research by model# of appliance.
Range Cartridge Receptacle – Part Number: WPY702434
$76.50
In Stock
Range Cartridge Receptacle
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Part #WPY702434
This cartridge receptacle is almost four inches long. It is white in color and is made of ceramic.
Range Screw – Part Number: WPY706189
$9.85
In Stock
Range Main Power Terminal Block – Part Number: WP8203546
$34.20
In Stock
Range Main Power Terminal Block
Part #WP8203546
Sold individually.
Clock Knob – Part Number: WP7711P466-60
$19.33
Special Order
Clock Knob
Part #WP7711P466-60
This clock knob is just under an inch long. It is black in color and is made of plastic. There is a chrome disc of decoration on its top.
Knob Kit – Part Number: 12200034
$99.88
In Stock
Knob Kit
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Part #12200034
There is 4 black knobs included in this kit.

Common Symptoms of the 20215

How this model fails, and the parts that fix it.

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Burner had one temperature--hot, regardless of setting
110 of 132 people found this instruction helpful.
  • James H from Oxford, NY
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
1. Killed power and removed the regulator's knob, noted the position of the old control.
2. Took off the cover for the center vent and loosened the two screw holding the housing in place--the screws didn't have to come out completely as it is a U-shaped friction hold.
3. Unscrewed the two screws holding the old control switch in place--lifted the housing enough to get at the old switch and carefully pulled it loose--it was a front burner so the control switch was about as far back as it could be but still wasn't that hard to get at.
4. Turned the new switch to orient the wire connectors, then, using a needle-nose pliers, removed each friction connector, one at a time, and fitted them on the new switch (note: one of the wires fitted best if it went under as opposed to around the base of the new switch).
5. Replaced the control back through the housing and screwed it in place, making sure the orientation of the control matched the way it looked originally.
6. Slide the housing back over the two screws and tightened, replace vent.
7. Replaced the knob and turned on the power.

(The above took me about twice as long to write as it did to make the repair and I write professionally but am not a professional electrician.)

Also, I bought a second control switch because, given the age of the unit, I'm sure another one will go. The second one will assure that it won't happen :-).
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The oven door seal was ripped and was leaking.
93 of 98 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Paul from Mickleton, NJ
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
The oven seal replacement was very straight forward. Two screws held the door to the arms coming from the oven. I slid the door up off the arm and moved it to a workbench. This whole process should take about 15 minutes, a little longer if your unit is older and you want to clean as you go. Mine was fairly dirty and I gave it a cleani ng as I removed parts. Unscrew all screws on the outer frame of the door, including two small ones on the side. Remove the outer frame and then the glass front and set them aside. A few more screws to remove the glass from the inner door, and even more on the remaining part of the door. You should also remove the screws holding the tiny brackets as well to release the portion that holds the oven seal in place. This is very straightforward, just keep pulling screws out until you can remove the old seal.

Once the old seal is out, insert the new one using the wire embedded in the seal as your guide...the gap in the seal goes to the bottom. Put everything back together and re-install the door. My door hinges were spring loaded and took a little effort to move them down so the door can be slipped on. This is a two person job since the hinges do not lock in place, they spring right back up flush with the oven and you cannot install the door. Re-install the two set screws holding the door to the hinges and you are done!

With the new seal in place, it felt a little puffy and the door did not seem to close as flush as it used to. This makes sense since the seal is new. I kept the door locked (like you would to use the oven cleaning cycle). I even kept it partially locked during cooking.

Frankly, the hardest part was the cleanup of nasty grease and dirt that built up over the past decade or so.

Best of luck!
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Burner Control not Functioning
27 of 35 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Randall from Mohnton, PA
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Simple Repair!
Turn off Power
Remove four screws under panel.
Remove old burner knob.
Drop Burner Panel from range
Remove 5 wire connectors from old burner control
with pliers
Remove 2 screws that held burner control to range
panel
Install new burner control
Rplace two screws to burner control
Replace 5 wire connectors to new burner control
Replace 4 screw under panel
Replace knob to new burner control
Turn on electricity
Made wife happy!
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