1J4021M3 General Electric Range - Instructions

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires, reconnected the wires to the new element, reattached it to the oven and voila!

It worked. What was really cool, once I ordered the part, I received it in only two work days!

Good job folks!

The hardest thing was finding the part to order! The GE Cooktop is from 1957 when the house was built. I followed the instructions that came with it. After seeing where the screw on hinge was supposed to be, I cleaned away the caked grease and finally saw the screw. I had to use a nut driver to remove it since it didn't have a slot for a screwdriver. Once that screw was out, the rest was easy. Before disconnecting any wires, I laid the new and old parts beside each other and drew a diagram showing where each wire (red, black & white) connected. It was a bit scary stripping the wires since they were old and fragile. It said to bend them into a "U" and solder but I didn't have soldering skill or equipment so I just tightened the screws holding the wires carefully. The connections are all nicely isolated in the bakelite insulator so it didn't seem cruicial. After working the new unit into place and turning on the power (at the circuit breaker), the burner worked perfectly. The replacement part looked exactly like the original. I was so amazed to be able to obtain the replacement burner after all these years! Thank-you PartsSelect!

Hardest part was getting the wrong element and having to send it back and reordering correct one....too many variables. Two screws inside the oven removed, pull out range and take off back and attach new element to plug ins!

Turned off power at breaker panel. Removed 2 screws attaching element to stove. Pulled element out a couple of inches and removed 2 wires attached with screws. Installation is reverse order of removal.
Be careful not to twist the terminal ends when tightening screws.

shipping was very fast!

It was so easy. I turned off the power to the range, loosened the hinge screw and removed the burner unit from the stovetop. Next I removed the two spring clips holding the ceramic housing covering the three connectors. Then I loosened the three screws holding the 3 wire connectors to the burner, reconnected the 3 wires to the new burner unit, positioned the ceramic insulator housing and reinstalled the spring clips and finally replaced and tightened the hinge screw. It took about 5 or six minutes, max.
You can do this!

Of course I unplugged the stove. Then I removed the cover to reveal the connections for the element. After unscrewing the two wire connectors, I had to use a nut driver to remove the two screws holding it in place in the oven. The new element went in easily. I screwed it in place in the oven and then attached the two wires in the back and replaced cover. Plugged it in, tested it, and we were good to go.

Note: this was a second attempt, The first time I ordered a heating element with push on connectors not screw on. Beware! Pay attention to the pictures and description. I ordered too quickly.

Our element blew in our oven, we took it out and saw what we needed. It was very easy to see what part we needed to order because of the great pictures on the website. The larger views really helped. We got the part quickly and put it in. It was a breeze and now our oven is working great! The best part however, is it only cost about $33.00 including shipping and handling. Much cheaper than if we would have had someone come in to fix it!

Raise burner high enough to remove screw located on hinge between coils. Remove screw completely and lift-out burner and ceramic block with wire connections.
Remove the wires from the connector block and strip-back the ends of both about 3/4". Make connections per the diagram and then assemble the ceramic blocks around the connection in a sandwiched fashion and secure the halves with the clips provided.
Now sit the burner down into place. An extra pair of hands is good here to hold the chrome trim ring and the coil up directly opposite the hinge. Then, peek under the coil and using fingertips, get the screw provided started in the hinge bracket and run this screw up snugly. A 1/4" nut driver makes this part easier, but a screwdriver will get it done.
That's it. Just flip the breaker to restore power and cross your fingers. A fairly easy job that took about 40 minutes to do both 8" elements The potentially frustrating parts are the ceramic terminal block assembly and replacing the hinge screw, but a job that's very doable. Oh, don't forget to slip the drip pans back in.

First, shut off the breaker to the stove. Removed old element by unscrewing the two screws on the plate where the element attached at the bottom of the inside of the oven. The old element was corroded at the connection, so disconnect it, attached the new one, pushed it back in the insulated socket then reattached the two screws on the plate. Flipped the breaker back on. Works great. Only took about 25 min. from start to finish.

Note: Please make sure power is off!!! Turn off at the fuse panel,Main. Test oven after you turn off breaker...try turning on oven with normal switch, indicator light should be off. Also check interior light, usually wired 110 volts, may be on a separate circuit, just for safety!!. Remove retaing screws, scewdriver will work , but a nut driver is easier. Pull old element out gently and check between terminals with volt meter. Remove screws on element holding feed wire, reverse this process to install. Test oven for proper operation after installation...make sure oven cycles through a set temperature range.

Teh instillation was a simple matter of removing the old burners and replacing them with the new ones. Removal required the screw connector on each burner ring to be loosened and the reverse done when the new one was installed. The hardest part was finding the correct burners since the Model number of the stove was not in anyones file. This web site provided adequate pictures of the part to permit identification of the likely part to order. Thanks.

Finding the replacement part on partselect.com was easy. The search feature brought me to a diagram of the bake element and offered precise grid measurements to assure me it was the correct part.

Be sure to completely unplug your stove before doing anything. The only tools I used were a small nut driver, a standard pliers and a flashlight (and a cushion for my old knees, ha).

Installation was easy, but you have to be very careful to not bend the little prongs were you attach the element to the stove wires... they bend pretty easily, so hold them tight or hold them in a pliers firmly but without crushing them. Drive the two screws to attach the element to the wires; then, drive the two screws to hold the element face plate against the rear of the oven, and viola, you're done!

Thanks, partselect - website, price, packaging and shipping were perfect! Also, I got several good tips from the feedback of other customers that were very helpful. That is a nice feature of your website and a good customer service.

Before you start, make sure the circuit breaker is not tripped, which can explain element not heating.
In my case, the toaster element was ok, which tells us that the oven is receiveing electric current.
1) Take the grills out so you have free access
2) Remove the door - this model just pull it up to let it free
3) remove the 2 screws securing the element on backwall of the oven and gently pull the element out
4) if you have a multimeter:
a) set it to AC, greater than 300 V
b) use your alligator clips, attach the clips
to the contacts of the element
c) briefly turn the oven on: expect to read between 230 and 260 volts
5) remove the screws securing the old element
6) install the new element;
7) secure the element back to the backwall
8) turn the oven briefly on and feel the heating element: should come warm pretty quic;
- Job done -

When you remove the screws securing the wire to the old element, make sure the wires are not cracked, or interrupted.

Otherwise, a real simple and easy fix.

Specs of this element are what I missed but here they are:
Resitence : 25.5 Ohms
Volts: 230 - 260Volst
Power : 2050 to 2650 Watts
The power depends on the voltage, so make sure you dont have it too low (less than 220 ) or too much (yeah, 260V is nearing upper limits)

Both the eight inch burner and the the six inch burner were not an exact fit. I used the old rings and the new burners. The eight inch burner fit well with the new drip bowl;however, the six inch burner did not fit with the six inch drip bowl and I had to grind off about an eigth inch from the diamiter of the drip bowl. I replaced most all the wiriing and after I get the lower oven element rebuilt it will be ready for a test drive ..can't wait!

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the four wires The element i request was 3 elements and i received two element but it was very easy i connect only the 3 wires.