1985816200 Kenmore Freezer - Overview

Diagrams for 1985816200

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Flat Style Oven Igniter Kit – Part Number: 12400035
$61.55
In Stock
Flat Style Oven Igniter Kit
★★★★★
★★★★★
(63)
Part #12400035
The flat style gas oven igniter included in this kit has a body length of 3-3/4 inches. This kit comes with all of the pieces you need to replace longer ceramic igniters, though this kit can also replace short igniters. This flat style oven igniter kit is a genuine replacement component designed for use in gas ovens and ranges. It plays a critical role in the ignition process by generating the heat required to open the gas valve and ignite the burner assembly. Suitable for both bake and broil functions, this igniter can replace short and long flat-style igniters but is not compatible with round-style models. If the igniter glows for more than 90 seconds without lighting the burner, or glows only orange or red instead of white-hot, it may be too weak to activate the gas valve and should be replaced. The kit includes the igniter, ceramic wire nuts, insulation pad, metal mounting bracket, multiple plug ends, and an instruction sheet. The igniter body measures approximately 3 ¾ inches, with an internal element
Water Inlet Valve – Part Number: 205613
$156.71
In Stock
Water Inlet Valve
★★★★★
★★★★★
(16)
Part #205613
This part has two ports for water to enter. It is blue and is intended for use with many washing machines and comes with a multi-mount bracket and an outlet adaptor.
Screw – Part Number: WP486754
$10.65
Special Order
Screw
Part #WP486754
Sold individually.
Screw - #10 - 32x1/2 – Part Number: 486146
$25.95
In Stock
Screw - #10 - 32x1/2
Part #486146
Sold Individually.
SCREW – Part Number: W10759522
$10.50
Special Order
SCREW
Part #W10759522
Sold individually.
Rivet – Part Number: WP596788
$9.85
Special Order
Rivet
Part #WP596788
Sold individually.
WIRE, CONNECTOR – Part Number: 227991
No Longer Available
WIRE, CONNECTOR
Part #227991
OVERLOAD – Part Number: 819160
No Longer Available
OVERLOAD
Part #819160
WASHER, FIBRE, 3/16 I.D. X 3/8 O.D. (4) – Part Number: 486847
No Longer Available
SCREW – Part Number: 487010
No Longer Available
SCREW
Part #487010
SCREW, TAPPING, 8-32 X 1/2 – Part Number: 487246
No Longer Available
SCREW, MACHINE, 1O-32 X 5/16 (2) – Part Number: 487346
No Longer Available

Common Symptoms of the 1985816200

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Cold water valve only opened to a trickle
600 of 619 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Brian from El Cajon, CA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Wrench (Adjustable)
I started by unplugging the appliance and then shut off the hot and cold water faucets then I disconnected and drained the hoses. Next, I removed the two screws that held the valve assembly in place. I then pulled the assembly out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wire plugs. The last step was to loosen the hose clamp on the outl et hose and pull off the outlet hose. I reversed the steps to install the new assembly and the total repair took about 10 minutes.
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Oven would not work but the Broiler did
337 of 374 people found this instruction helpful.
  • James from Ferndale, MI
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
The oven had been working intermittently for a while and after repeated threats of starvation from my spouse I finally took a look even though it was summer and the grill was working fine. The Igniter would glow red when the oven was turned on but the gas would not flow to it no matter what the temperature setting. I searched online and f ound this site that explained it was possible for the igniter to glow but if it was not drawing the correct amperage (because its resistance was too high) then the main brain would not allow the gas valve to open. So I took a look at the broiler and it had the same igniter. I measure the resistance of both of them and the oven igniters resistance was higher (don't rememeber the reading) then I moved the Igniter from the broiler to the oven and the oven worked from there it was just a matter of ordering the part. End of story except for I am still doing all the cooking on the barbecue outside.
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Oven would'nt light
132 of 145 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Charles from Charlestown, RI
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
In most cases if your oven won't light or takes a long time to light you may have a bad igniter even if it glows. To check the igniter use a voltmeter to check for 120 A/C volts going to the igniter and3.5 A/C volts going between the ingniter and the gas valve. My bad ingniter glowed but had only only 3.0 A/C volts going to the gas valve for the oven. The new igniter took only 45 minutes to install and supply's 3.6 A/C volts to the gas valve and the oven works fine.
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