1545 - Overview

Models starting with 1545

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Burner Bowl - 8 Inch – Part Number: WB31T10015
$29.35
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Burner Bowl - 8 Inch
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(9)
Part #WB31T10015
This part is located beneath the element and catches any spills.
Burner Bowl - 6 Inch – Part Number: WB31T10014
No Longer Available
Burner Bowl - 6 Inch
Part #WB31T10014
This burner bowl is also known as a burner drip bowl or burner drip pan, and is designed for use with your cooktop or range. It is black in color and is approximately 6 inches in diameter. It can be found beneath the element and catches spills. If your old burner bowl is damaged or missing, you may need to replace it with this part.
Bake Element – Part Number: WB30X46987
$111.72
In Stock
Bake Element
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(41)
Part #WB30X46987
The bake element is located on the bottom of the oven. If your oven will not heat properly it may be due to a faulty or damaged baking element. If you can see that the element has been separated or blistered, you should replace the part immediately. If there is no visible damage, turn the oven on and check to see if the element heats evenly. If the element is not heating evenly, or if it is not heating at all, it will need to be replaced. This element is 19 inches wide x 19 inches long, and has male spade push on terminals.
Surface Burner Switch - 8 Inch - 2500W – Part Number: WB24T10025
$74.43
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Surface Burner Switch - 8 Inch - 2500W
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(17)
Part #WB24T10025
The 8-inch surface element switch is also known as an infinite heat switch, and is a part for your range. It controls the large surface element. It will turn the element on and off, and allow you to change the heat intensity. The knob to adjust the heat setting mounts on the shaft of this swtich. The burner knob is sold separately. If your large surface element will not turn on, or you cannot adjust the heat intensity, you may have a broken or damaged surface burner switch. Be sure you disconnect your range from the power source before you begin this repair.
Light Bulb - 40W – Part Number: 40A15
$19.10
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Light Bulb - 40W
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(3)
Part #40A15
This 40-Watt light bulb is sold individually. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, so this bulb is compatible with a variety of appliance types including refrigerators, ranges, microwaves, and dryers. It features a frosted glass bulb with a standard metal socket base, which allows you to easily unscrew the burnt-out light and twist the new bulb into place.
Surface Burner Terminal Block Kit – Part Number: WB2X8228
$45.61
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Drawer Support – Part Number: WB02K10158
$13.95
Special Order
Drawer Support
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(7)
Part #WB02K10158
This is a replacement drawer support for your oven. The drawer support provides stability to the drawer unit as it opens and closes. If your oven drawer is hanging or will not slide in or out efficiently, you could have a damaged or missing drawer support. This part is made of white plastic and is sold individually. To replace the support, simply remove the oven drawer, and unscrew the front support on the sides of the oven. Then, simply screw the new part in and replace the drawer to complete your repair.
Lens – Part Number: WB25T10041
$13.95
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Lens
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(4)
Part #WB25T10041
This part is a replacement lens for your oven or range. The lens is red in color, and when the elements are turned on, the light behind the lens will turn on to inform the user that the element is, in fact, on. The lens is a little less than half an inch in diameter and is made of plastic. If the light behind the lens still works, you should be able to simply remove the front panel and pop the damaged lens out of position, then replace it with the new one. This part is sold individually and is an OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer.
Range Surface Element Control Switch - 6 Inch - 1560 W – Part Number: WB24T10029
$69.15
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Range Surface Element Control Switch - 6 Inch - 1560 W
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(10)
Part #WB24T10029
If your stove’s burner isn’t heating right—maybe it’s stuck on high or won’t turn on at all—this control switch could be the fix. It’s made for 6-inch burners and lets you adjust the heat smoothly, not just in set steps. It works by turning the burner on and off to reach the temperature you want. Swapping out a worn switch can help your stove cook more evenly and safely.
BROIL ELEMENT – Part Number: WB30X46986
No Longer Available
BROIL ELEMENT
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(13)
Part #WB30X46986
If your oven isn’t getting hot enough when you broil, this replacement broil element could be the fix. It’s the part that heats from the top of the oven to give food that crispy finish. Easy to install—just make sure it fits your model and turn off the power before starting.
Foot - Leveller – Part Number: WB02X10521
$29.72
Special Order
Foot - Leveller
Part #WB02X10521
Sold individually.
Surface Burner Terminal Block Kit – Part Number: WB17T10006
$87.90
Special Order
Surface Burner Terminal Block Kit
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(1)
Part #WB17T10006
This kit includes the female contact with wires, terminal block and mounting clip.

Exact Part matches for your search term

Screw – Part Number: 1545
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Extension door – Part Number: 1545
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Lower bake Element would not heat.
230 of 264 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ronald from Nassau, NY
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
First I slid the stove out and unpluged it, then removed two screws,slid out element, disconected two wires, slid new element in to place, pluged two wires in ,put into place and installed two screws, pluged stove back in, and turned on to try. Works perfect.
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The Bake-o-lite (Hard Plastic) block that holds the burners female connection in place had chipped away over time and wouldn't allow the male part of the burner to connect up correctly.
113 of 115 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Robert from Mt. Vernon, IN
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
After unplugging the range I took the rear sheet metal panel at the top off with a nut driver to expose the wiring connections. The next step was to remove the single screw holding the old part in place. (under the drip pan) Once free I snipped the old part from the wires and then taped the new female ends to the old wires with black elec trical tape. From rear I carfully pulled the old wires through the back until I could reach the new wiring connections. Unplugged old, plugged in new and replaced the rear metal cover. Then I put the screw that holds the new block bracket in place, replaced drip pan, and burner. The final step was to plug the range back in and check to see if the burner worked. It did and I was done. Approx. 5 minutes
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The switches failed on both front burners.
97 of 108 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Marc from Columbia, NJ
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Remove nobs from both switches.
Pull out the range (the hardest part).
REMOVE THE POWER PLUG FROM THE WALL
Remove 7 screws with nut driver and take off upper back panel.
Remove 2 phillips screws from front, they hold the switch brackets.
The new switches don't fit in the bracket so discard the bracket keeping the screws.
Removing 1 wire at a time from the old switch transfer to the new noting the letter/number ie "H1 P1" combos they are all there just not in the same places on the new switch.
When wiring is complete, using the bracket ,screws from the front screw on the switches.
Replace the back panel with 7 screws.
In my case the old nobs did not fit the shafts of the new switches. I found some at the local hardware store. I bought 4 for $0.29 each! I expect to be replacing the other burner switches shortly.
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