1424^0A Whirlpool Range - Overview

Diagrams for 1424^0A

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Parts for the 1424^0A

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Lid Switch – Part Number: W10820036
$33.28
In Stock
Lid Switch
★★★★★
★★★★★
(7)
Part #W10820036
Keep your washer or dryer running safely with this easy-to-install lid or door switch kit. It stops the machine from working when the door is open, helping prevent spills and accidents. Compatible with many models, this small but important part fits neatly inside your appliance and comes with everything you need for installation. Just unplug your machine, swap out the old switch, and you're good to go. It’s about 2.5 inches long and blends in with most interiors.
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High Limit Thermostat – Part Number: WP303896
$92.28
In Stock
High Limit Thermostat
★★★★★
★★★★★
(2)
Part #WP303896
This thermostat is used for Canadian models only.
Range Hex Nut – Part Number: WP112432
$10.95
In Stock
Range Hex Nut
Part #WP112432
10-32 hex - Sold Individually - Appliance originally takes 3 of this item.
Door Handle Spring – Part Number: 310197
No Longer Available
Door Handle Spring
Part #310197
Burner Control Knob – Part Number: WP313307
$22.43
Special Order
Burner Control Knob
Part #WP313307
Sold Individually.
2 Req. All 2141 Models – Part Number: 105771
No Longer Available
2 Req. All 2141 Models
Part #105771
USE WPL 660741 – Part Number: 301672
No Longer Available
USE WPL 660741
Part #301672
Timer – Part Number: 285675
No Longer Available
Timer
Part #285675
The timer controls most of the operations of the washer: water level, tub filling and emptying, length of cycles, and cycle setting sequences.
DISCONTINUED – Part Number: 309026
No Longer Available
DISCONTINUED
Part #309026
SEAL-FOAM – Part Number: 313751
No Longer Available
SEAL-FOAM
Part #313751
Fixture Wire Lead With 1/4`` Faston & Piggyback Terminals (Black With 1/4`` Faston & Eyelet Terminal – Part Number: 291284
No Longer Available
18850A Models – Part Number: 324529
No Longer Available
18850A Models
Part #324529
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Common Symptoms of the 1424^0A

How this model fails, and the parts that fix it.

Will Not Start
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Will not drain
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Will not agitate
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Won’t Start
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Videos related to the 1424^0A

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Replacing the Lid Switch

Replacing the Lid Switch

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See how others fixed this model. Time, tools, difficulty, and steps that lead to victory! View More

Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!

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Lid closes, switch wouldn't turn on machine.
31 of 47 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Kenneth from Wilmington, IL
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Used toothpick for a year to push switch acctuator far enough to engage switch. Broke my foot and found time to order part thru PartSelect. Went from cast to boot and received part 2 days after ordered. Had difficulty with foot and getting to switch. Went back into PartSelect and figured out how to dis-assemmble panels thru the diagrams. Time on my job doesn't, just that their service and expertise that is available to everyone is there to use. Broken bones or not, I will always get my parts and advice from PartSelect. Thanks to PartSelect.
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Washer would fill up, wash, then stop
22 of 31 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Glen from Plano, TX
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
I deduced the lid switch was the problem.

I removed the two screws holding the control panel on. Pulled the control panel back.
Disconnected the ground wire of the lid switch.
removed the two top clamps that hold the panel to the top of the machine.
Pulled back the casing (outside of the washer) and placed it on it's side on the floor. Here I could reach the switch. Removed old, installed new and reversed the process.

The part that gave me the biggest problem was setting the casing back on to the frame. You have to slide the front part in at the bottome, then lean back the rest of it.
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Washer will agitate, but won't spin
18 of 24 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Mandie from Lewisville, NC
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
I ordered the switch, which is what most people told me the problem was. I didn't have a multimeter, so I couldn't test the current one.

I removed the two screws from above the lid switch, removed the control panel screws on either side, and used a flat screwdriver to pry the top off by popping the clips.

The swit ch was easy to reach, and I compared the old and new switch after removing the paddle assembly. The new switch has three prongs, whereas my old one had two, so I put the gray wire terminal onto the bottom prong. I set everything down, plugged it in, and tested it, but still no spin cycle.

After some further research, I realized the problem was with the spin solenoid under the washer, or the red wire that leaves the lid switch and goes to the spin solenoid, also called a wig-wag solenoid. (This is a belt driven model, not direct drive.) It's not too common that the solenoids fail, but it is rather common that the wires break inside the insulation on this model.

Moral of the story is always ohm through the switches and wires before ordering replacement parts. (Remember, never ohm through a live circuit.)
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