12671-1 General Electric Range - Overview

Diagrams for 12671-1

See every part. Know exactly what you need.

Parts for the 12671-1

$47.53

Oven Sensor

★★★★★

(8)

Part #WB21X5301

This sensor detects the temperature within the oven cavity.

Large Haliant Burner with Limiter - 8"

★★★★★

(2)

Part #WB30T10045

This haliant burner element is a gneuine OEM replacement part for your stove. This element is 8 inches in diameter. The element lies underneath the stovetop, and will need to be replaced if it stops heating. To complete this repair you will need a 1/4 inch nut driver and a flat blade screwdriver. To access the element, open the oven door and unscrew the two screws under the lip of the cooktop.

$42.97

Bottom Trim - White

★★★★★

(4)

Part #WB07K10250

Screws not included.

ELEMENT BROIL - WB44M166

★★★★★

(1)

Part #WG02F05470

$99.26

Door Handle

★★★★★

(1)

Part #WB15X10048

Handle only. Screws not included.

$14.80

BTN DOME "R"WH - WB3M532

★★★★★

(2)

Part #WG02F05222

6" Heating Element

★★★★★

(1)

Part #WB30X44826

This 6-inch radiant surface heating element is a genuine OEM component designed for use with select electric ranges and cooktops. Also known as a haliant element it delivers 1500 watts of consistent heat from beneath the glass or ceramic cooktop surface ensuring efficient and even cooking performance. The element is engineered to glow vis...Read more

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BAKE ELEMENT CONVECTION

Part #WB44M169

$24.85

Washer - 12 Pack

Part #WB1X119D

Leveling Leg

Part #WB2X8248

SWITCH INF.2600W

Part #WB23M99

Gasket

Part #WB2X2058

This genuine OEM oven door gasket is designed to create a tight, heat-resistant seal between the oven door and the cooking cavity. By preventing heat from escaping, it helps maintain consistent cooking temperatures and supports efficient oven operation. Replacing a worn, torn, or damaged gasket can resolve issues such as heat loss, uneven...Read more

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Common Symptoms of the 12671-1

How this model fails, and the parts that fix it.

Element will not heat

Fixed by
these parts

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Little to no heat when baking

Fixed by
these parts

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Oven not heating evenly

Videos related to the 12671-1

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Replacing the Oven Sensor

Repair Tips From Fixers Like You

See how others fixed this model. Time, tools, difficulty, and steps that lead to victory! View More

Oven tempature was approximately 150 degrees to low

224 of 265 people found this instruction helpful.

James from Austin, TX
Easy
1- 2 hours
Nutdriver, Screw drivers

This repair is EASY if you know how to use an ohm meter. If not, seek help for this step.

SYMPTOM:
The oven (JKP27WOP3WG or JKP27WP3WG and many ovens like it ) was not getting hot enough. Verifying the cooking temperature with an typical oven thermometer, I was able to determine that the oven was cooking temperature was ... Read more about 150 degrees to low.

FAILURE POINTS:
There are two logical failure points (1) The oven sensor ( WB21X5301 about $75), or the (2) the controller board (PS238233 about $252). In my case it was the controller board. When replaced the oven worked beautifully.

REPAIR:
As with any repair, you MUST DISCONNECT POWER TO THE UNIT BEFORE SERVICING!!!

Pull oven from the wall:
- Disconnect power by flipping the circuit breaker to the OFF position.
- Remove the top flange / cowling from the top of the oven (it just pulls off)
- Remove two screws under the top flange / cowling
- The whole unit easily slides out, but it is highly recommended that you use two people to place the oven on the floor.

As a diagnostic between these two parts, if the oven sensors measure approximately 1.1K ohms of resistance at room temperature, then it is probably not the sensor. The oven sensor wires are connected to two white wires that run up to the controller board. You need to disconnect the oven sensor to make the measurement. You may either completely remove the oven sensor by cutting the wire (be sure to allow yourself enough slack so that they may be safely reconnected) where it connects to the white wires, OR, (preferred method) if leaving the oven sensor partially installed,
- Remove the top sheet metal cover (10 screws)
- Remove the service connect cover (2 screws - this is where the main Power cord comes into the unit)
- Disconnect the white wires from the controller board (this connector which also includes other circuits is on the left side when looking at the controller board).
- Remove two screws from oven sensor but just let in dangle down so that you can put the sensor in the ice water / boiling water.

Measure the resistance under the following conditions. Your ohm meter should read APPROXIMATELY...
- 1.02K ohms in ice water
- 1.09K ohms at room temperature
- 1.36K ohms in boiling water.
If you get approximately these readings, then it is NOT the oven sensor. If that checks out then re-install the sensor AND the connector.

If it is NOT the sensor, replace the controller board.
- Take a moment to write down the color of the wire to the LETTERING (N, L, G, C / COM,,,) on the controller board. The connectors are in different locations on the new controller board so the wire color to the letter designation is significant.
- Carefully remove the wires one at a time
- VERY carefully remove the keypad ribbon cable from the right side of the controller board.
-- The ribbon cable will disconnect by releasing some little pressure clips on the side of the connector.
- Remove the controller board (4 screws)
- Install new controller board (4 screws)
- VERY carefully connect the keypad ribbon cable on the right side.
-- Make sure that the connector is in the OPEN position first, then,
-- Slide in the cable ensuring that all parts of the ribbon made it into the connector, then
-- Press down on the connector locking tabs.
- Reconnect each wire to the correctly lettering on the board.
-- Again, the connectors MAY BE in a different order on the replacement controller board. Match color to letter.
- Reconnect the (5 wire?) connector that includes the white oven sensor wires.
- Make sure everything looks normal, (i.e. no wires are pinched, remove tools from top of oven area, etc.)
- Re-install top cover.
- Re-install service connect cover.

You can test the unit while it is out of the cabinet,
- Make SURE that all sheet metal covers are in place.
- Flip power breaker to "On".
- Test that oven gets to the desired temp.

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Large burner would not get hot

70 of 95 people found this instruction helpful.

Kevin from Leominster, MA
Easy
Less than 15 mins
Nutdriver, Screw drivers

Repair was very simple. Removed 2 screws under the cooktop, tilt the cooktop back, unplug 4 wires from 8" burner, remove two screws holding retaining clips, install new burner in reverse order. Very simple!

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Coil Burned Out

63 of 94 people found this instruction helpful.

Frank from St Augustine, FL
Really Easy
15 - 30 mins
Screw drivers

Open lid,un screw coil,pop in new coil snap holders in place,then cook a steak

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