119908821 Kenmore Range - Overview

Diagrams for 119908821

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Terminal Block Kit – Part Number: 5303935058
$20.88
In Stock
Terminal Block Kit
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(45)
Part #5303935058
This surface burner terminal block kit comes with interchangeable mounting brackets, terminal box, ceramic wire nuts, heat shrink protective tubing and wires.
Drip Bowl - 8" – Part Number: 316048413
$19.75
In Stock
Drip Bowl - 8"
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(18)
Part #316048413
This drip bowl is located beneath the element and catches any spills. It is sold individually and has a diameter of approximately 10 inches.
Range Surface Burner Plug-In Block Kit – Part Number: 330031
$22.16
In Stock
Range Surface Burner Plug-In Block Kit
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(6)
Part #330031
This newer-style terminal block kit includes two metal brackets, two pre-crimped wires with terminals, two ceramic wire nuts, a heat shrinking tube, and a mounting screw.

Common Symptoms of the 119908821

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corroded terminals
22 of 25 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Gary from hollywood, FL
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
was more of a job of splicing wires together than anything else. Loved the heat shrink electrical tubing
to put over the wires for insulation. used a hair
dryer. must buy more of that amazing stuff
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Block terminal burnt out, hot plate not working, needed to replace the terminal block
17 of 22 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Shaun from Whitehall, MD
  • Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
This should take approx 15-30 mins. It took me 1.5 hours as I pushed the terminals into the wrong end of the block. It's very difficult to get them out when you do that... However, there are no easy instructions on the block or in the instructions to tell you which end to push the terminals into!!! So, with a 50:50 chance of getting it right, I got it wrong. I think most people would need to buy a new part if they do this. It would be very much easier if the block, had an arrow that simply said IN here so that this type of simple mistake is less easy to do... If you get that right, the fix is quite and straight forward. Good luck.
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One burner didn't work all the time the other would go red hot
15 of 16 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Phillip from Pekin, IL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
I unplugged the stove from the outlet, then removed the two burners I was going to be working on and the drip pans. Then I raised the top part of the stove and removed the screws holding the plug-in blocks to the stove. Then I cut the two wires going to the old plug-in block and stripped the wires back to match the new wire parts. Then I placed the sleeves over the new wires, then I placed the new wire beside the wire I stripped on the stove and screw on the wire cap making sure it was tight. I repeated this three more times, once I had all four wires connected I then placed the sleeves over the connections and heated them up until they were formed around the connection. Once I had all the connections done I placed one wire at a time into the plug-in block until it locked into place ( I looked at my old plug-in blocks first to make sure I placed the new wires in the correct way ).I then used the metal mounting bracket that matched my old ones and snapped the correct one onto each plug-in block. Before mounting them onto the stove I compared them to my old ones to make sure they were correct. Then I used the new screws to mount them to the stove. I took a second look at everything I had done before closing the top cover of my stove. After lowering the cover back into place I put both the drip covers in place and then installed the burners.I then plugged the stove back into the outlet and tried the burners. This was very simple and the video on the web site shows this very well which made my job very simple.
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