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111452-0134-E1 Briggs and Stratton Engine - Overview
Diagrams for 111452-0134-E1
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$5.95
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Key-flywheel
Part #222698S
This is a Genuine OEM replacement part used on a variety of Lawn and Garden equipment. The key helps to secure Flywheel in place. This is a Metal Key and it is Sold Individually. You would need Pliers to replace this item.
$7.95
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Bolt
Part #691119
$7.95
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Screw
Part #691664
$11.95
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Filter-a/c Foam
Part #493537S
Genuine Manufacturer Sourced replacement part used on a variety of Briggs and Stratton Engines. This filter adds a second layer of protection against airborne-dirt particle ingestion. This is a Foam Pre-Cleaner which is Sold Individually. Please note a Paper Filter and a Cover are both Sold Separately.
$15.95
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Spring/link-mech Gov
Part #693408
$7.95
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Cap-oil Fill
Part #281658S
This manufacturer approved replacement part is specially produced for use with Briggs and Stratton engines commonly installed on Toro lawn and garden equipment. It is utilized to keep the oil in the tank. Please note this durable plastic oil fill cap is sold individually.
$16.95
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Valve-Choke
Part #692567
$11.95
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Kit-needle/seat
Part #398188
Genuine manufacturer approved carburetor needle valve for lawn and garden equipment engines. This item includes the seat. The needle valve opens and closes to control the flow of fuel into the carburetor. Make sure to disconnect the spark plug wire and drain all gasoline from the carburetor and fuel tank before starting a repair.
$34.95
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Jet-Main
Part #498976
$40.95
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Shim-Endplay
Part #220624
$6.95
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Washer-sealing
Part #271716
This authentic OEM sealing washer is designed for your lawn equipment to create a tight seal within the carburetor body, preventing fuel or air leaks. If you notice any signs of leaks, such as dripping fuel or hissing sounds, it may indicate a faulty or worn-out sealing washer. Additionally, you might be experiencing engine performance is...Read moresues like rough idling or difficulty starting. To replace the sealing washer, ensure that the machine is off and that the engine has cooled down. Remove the air breather cover and the filter itself, following the instructions provided in your user manual to access the carburetor. Depending on your specific equipment model, you may need to detach the springs from the carburetor choke mechanism, disconnect the fuel line and fuel tank, remove the choke lever, and detach the air breather base. Once you have located the carburetor, carefully unthread the main jet from the bottom of the carburetor bowl. Finally, slide off the old sealing washer, ensuring you take note of its positioning for accurate replacement. Please note that this sealing washer is sold individually.
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$10.95
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Gasket-air Cleaner
Part #272948S
It is a high quality OEM sourced replacement part that is specially designed for use with Briggs and Stratton engines. This is the gasket that provides an air-tight seal for the air cleaner base. Over time gaskets tend to deteriorate and would need to be replaced. It is made from durable composite material and it is sold individually.
Common Symptoms of the 111452-0134-E1
How this model fails, and the parts that fix it.
Will Not Start
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Cannot pull starter cord out or engine will not turn over
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See how others fixed this model. Time, tools, difficulty, and steps that lead to victory!
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Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!
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Parts fit like a glove
2 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
Removed pull start assembly down to the crank. Installed motor housing, motor fan & rewind assembly. All went real good.
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Needed to replace muffler
1 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
Using a socket wrench with extension and a T20 star socket (you can use the appropriate hex head socket also) i removed to two bolts holding the muffler on. They are right on top of the engine and very accessible. Your model may have a heat shield that needs to be removed. Once the muffler is off remove the old gasket. It may be stuck to
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the muffler or exhaust opening on the engine. It should just pry of with a little effort. I did make sure there were no gasket pieces left behind. I placed the bolts through the flange of the new muffler and then slid the new gasket over the bolts. You can use a exhaust gasket sealant just hold it place while you place the flange in place and not have to worry about gasket dropping off. I just held it until I got the flange in place. I started the bolts by hand using the socket and extension. I alternated from each bolt until I had tighted it down. You can look up torque specs. I just used my grunt meter. It is good as new. Parts were OEM replacement. Not knock off almost right parts. I got very lucky when I found this company and will use them again.
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