11087842700 Kenmore Washer Dryer Combo - Overview

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Agitator Directional Cogs – Part Number: 80040
$6.55
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Agitator Directional Cogs
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Part #80040
These agitator directional cogs are commonly referred to as dog ears. They come four to a package and are usually used with direct drive washing machines.
Idler Pulley – Part Number: 279640
$34.29
In Stock
Idler Pulley
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Part #279640
This Idler Pulley includes the tri-ring and gasket and everything included here is manufacturer-certified. This part maintains correct tension on the drive belt in order to spin the drum properly. If damaged or broken the dryer will not dry properly, will not tumble properly, or may not even start. Installation is rated as "Medium" difficulty. This part is located on the dryer drum, around the tension pulley. Refer to your user manual and model number for repair instructions and to ensure this part is right for you. For this repair project, the tools needed are a Phillips screwdriver, 1/4 inch nut driver, putty knife, small flat blade screw driver, and needle nose pliers.
Multi Rib Belt – Part Number: 661570
$34.28
In Stock
Multi Rib Belt
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Part #661570
The Drive Belt is a 93 1/2" belt which wraps around the dryer drum to allow tension and movement. If broken the dryer will not turn properly, or there may be loud noises. The part is rated as "medium" difficulty to install. Refer to your model number and user manual to ensure this part is correct for you. To complete this repair you will need a Phillips screwdriver, 1/4 inch nut driver, a putty knife, and a pair of needle nose pliers. Ensure you disconnect your power to the dryer before beginning this repair, which should take between 30 and 60 minutes maximum to complete.
Roller Support Tri-Ring – Part Number: WPW10512946
$18.70
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Roller Support Tri-Ring
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Part #WPW10512946
If you notice that your dryer is noisy or will not tumble, you may need to replace the tri ring. This part is triangular, and is less than an inch in size. Tri rings can be found both on the idler pulley shaft, or on the rear drum roller shaft. In either case, you will need to remove the front panel of the dryer and the drum to access the part for repair. Once you have accessed the damaged tri ring, you will simply need to slip it off and replace it with the new one. This part is sold individually. Be sure to disconnect the power source from the dryer before you begin this repair.
Touch-Up Paint - White – Part Number: 72017
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Touch-Up Paint - White
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Part #72017
This 18 ml bottle of white appliance touch-up paint is used to cover scratches or marks on your appliance. The white touch-up paint can be used on refrigerators, microwaves, ranges, clothes dryers, and freezers. This is a genuine OEM part and includes a brush applicator. Please remember to wear gloves to protect your hands when applying this paint.
Agitator Bolt – Part Number: WP358237
$15.56
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Agitator Bolt
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Part #WP358237
This kit contains one screw with rubber gasket and threaded sealant. The screw head is 7/16".
Washer Inner Cap Seal – Part Number: WPW10072840
$15.41
In Stock
Washer Inner Cap Seal
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Part #WPW10072840
Also known as an O-Ring. This black o-ring seal is three inches in diameter.
Washer Lid Switch Kit – Part Number: WP3355458
$80.99
In Stock
Washer Lid Switch Kit
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Part #WP3355458
The point of the lid switch is for the tub to stop spinning when the washer lid is opened.
Centerpost Gasket – Part Number: W10814296
$12.01
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Centerpost Gasket
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Part #W10814296
This main outer tub seal is a critical component that prevents water from leaking at the bottom of the tub during operation. Measuring approximately 2 inches in diameter, it is constructed from durable black plastic for long-lasting performance. Proper installation requires disconnecting power, drain hose, and inlet hose, followed by removing the outer cabinet and the entire tub assembly. Inspect the seal for cracks or wear during maintenance to avoid leaks and ensure optimal washer performance.
Washer Front Leveling Foot – Part Number: WPW10001130
$9.85
In Stock
Washer Washer – Part Number: WP3949550
$17.26
In Stock
Washer Washer
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Part #WP3949550
This part goes on the agitator retaining bolt.
Washer Hose Clamp – Part Number: WP596669
$11.52
In Stock
Washer Hose Clamp
Part #WP596669

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washer wouldn't agitate
956 of 1058 people found this instruction helpful.
  • mike from Kent, WA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
First pry off the cap of the agitator. Then using a socket remove the bolt that holds the plastic cup in place. Remove this cup by prying it loose from the two tabs that hold it in place. Once this cup is removed you can get to the broken cogs.
Slip the new cogs into the underside of the cup, and slide the cup back down in the a gitator housing using the slots on the side for a guide. (You may want to remove the entire agitator and assemble everything upside down, then flip it all back over to mount, so the cogs don't fall out).
Tighten the bolt, snap the cap back in place on top of the agitator and your'e done. Easy repair.
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top half of agitator did not move during wash cycle
288 of 337 people found this instruction helpful.
  • dennis from new stanton, PA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Socket set
pull off softner dispenser, pop off agitator cap by inserting straight screw driver into small slot, remove bolt inside agitator with socket wrench and long extension, pull agitator straight up off shaft, place agitator on floor, with feet holding bottom half pull top half apart from bottom half by pulling straight up, note direction of o ld cogs remove and replace with new, reassemble
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Gearcase oil leak
150 of 166 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Greg from Hemet, CA
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
To replace gearcase seals, first disconnect the power cord. Turn off water supply and remove water inlet hoses at washer (safety first). You may want to have a bucket available to catch water that will drain out of the hot/cold and drain hoses. Next, remove top agitator cap, seal and (7/16”) bolt (see diagrams on PartSelect). This will al low the top agitator and cogs to be removed. Grab the bottom agitator and rock it back and forth until it can be removed.
Suggestion: now is a good time to remove and clean the old soap and junk from drain holes in the top agitator and any junk that may be under the lower agitator.
Lay the washer on its right side. You will now have access to the motor, pump, hoses clutch and gearcase. Place a couple of 2X4X(5?) blocks under the tub to support it. Remove the electrical connector from the motor (this is clipped into place) and the two wires that go to the capacitor on the motor.(TIP: don’t put your finger across these terminals, SHOCK HAZARD) Remove the hose clamps and hoses, the two screws (5/16”) on each strap that holds the motor in place, you may have to use a screw driver to pop the straps off the motor. Remove the motor and pump by pushing the tub to the left and move the motor and pump to the right to clear the coupling. If you have not replaced the drive coupling, now would be a good time to order and replace. With the motor out of the way, remove the three (½”) bolts holding the gearcase to the chassis and pull to remove gearcase and shaft. If you are only replacing the drive shaft seal, you do not need to open the gearcase case. Stand the gearcase so the input shaft is facing up, or what fluid is left in the gearcase will come out. One question I see a lot is how do you remove the seal. One, buy a real expensive tool that you will only use once, or take a screwdriver with about a ¼” blade, stick it between the shaft and the seal, gently leverage the seal out while going around the shaft. After the seal is removed, oil can be added thru the seal hole. Understand that different oils are designed for different applications. That said, I used 90 weight gear oil from the local auto parts store, you can add it thru the seal hole. To install the seal, lightly tape it into the seal cavity, then use a socket that is close to the diameter of the seal and gently drive it in.
If you have to replace the top case seal, it will require you to take the gearcase apart. The advantage of this is, if you have an older washer, you can clean out the contaminated oil and sludge and check for wear on the parts, and replace as needed from PartSelect. Here’s a suggestion: if you have a digital camera, take pictures, this will really help when you put things back together.
Now look at the diagram that is provide by PartSelect, remove the clutch, remove the bolts on the top cover, try to keep it level or you may have a mess on your hands. Lift the cover up over the shaft. I found the top case seal very stubborn to remove. Using a small screwdriver, get between the case and the seal and gently pry it out. Replace the seal, again, by using a socket and gently taping into place. There is also a seal at the top of the drive gear that you may want to replace to keep the oil from going up into the clutch. Now its time to clean all of the years of gunk out of the case and gears. When you are ready, fill the bottom half of the gearcase with oil, about half a quart. To seal the case, I used a ultra blue silicone gasket sealer in a tube from my local auto parts store or sealant can be purchased from PartSelect. I used it on the top half of the gearcase case. Slide the top case over the shaft and evenly tighten the bolts. Reinstall the clutch to the gearcase shaft and install into the washer. I found that the motor bearings needed to be lubed, so I used white lithium grease in an aerosol can. Reinstall motor and don’t forget to put the electrical plug back into the motor and the wires that go to the capacitor and pump h
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